rebuild or upgrade carb?

[mountain]

So I am trying to decide if I should try and find a rebuild kit for my Holly single barrel or upgrade to a newer carb. What have any of you had any luck with? I think I have a Holly 1904 according to the manual picture campared to the carb, plus the carb has Holly written on the float bowl. I read some of the past post and see some say to swith to the Weber 32/36. Is it worth it? I am already having trouble finding a rebuild kit for a 1904 Holly at NAPA but that could be because I am not ginving them enough info on what the carb is. They were quite perplexed when I told them it was a 1904. I know some of you have to have opinions on this subject. I just want a smooth running 240. This is for my 1956 S110 since I didn't mention that already. Thanks everyone!

[Houston]

Do a search, somewhere recently the part number for this carb kit was given in a post. The kit is becoming harder to to find.

As for upgrade vs original, I have read and heard horror stories about the 1904. However, I had a scout 800 with the 1904, rebuilt it, had no issues, and it was a smooth running scout. I currently have a 67 1100b with the bg241, and 1904 carb. I rebuilt this one as well, it usually starts first crank, and runs like a sewing machine. I think the bottom line is that if you have a good core and a good rebuild kit, then you can get a very serviceable result. However if the core is no good or your rebuilt kit is cheap then the carb will leak and cause problems. Make sure the float is parallel to the carb body when you turn the carb upside down. If it is high or low you will have problems. Make sure that you have good inline fuel filter, these carbs seem susceptible to every little piece of trash in the fuel line. My vote is go original unless you need the small added hp from the two barrel carb.

[Doc Stewart]

I have a 65 Scout 80 and a 65 1000 Travelall with the 1904 carbs. Clean them and replace worn parts and they work well enough. See Mike Mayben's stuff on the 1904 at IHonlynorth.com for the best info.

My Scout will get a better carb when this one finally dies. The Travelall will remain original.

[steve bridge]

You didn't give enough info, what's it doing wrong? To evaluate a carb body, pull the accelerator rod and return spring to relieve pressure, grab the flange the rod connects to and move it back and forth, up and down. Turn it to open the venturis and move it up and down again. What you are looking for is play (wear) between the carb body and the throttle shaft. Be aware though, sometimes what feels like play is just your flesh moving around. There can be some play, but the bigger leaks affect your idle, sometimes to a point that is unlivable. Hook everything back up and with the truck running, spray carb cleaner through the long tube that comes taped to the side of the can directly on both ends of the throttle shaft. Little squirts focused on the end of the shaft on either side, not spraying so much that it gets its way into the carb through the throat. The shaft is at the base, near the intake manifold. If there is no change in engine speed, it is a great candidate for a kit. If it is worn, the Carb body can be rebushed, that is bored out and bronze bushings installed and bored to fit the shaft. I had one done for 15 bucks, but that was a while ago. Someone might add more, this is all self taught monkey wrenchin'. and if it doesn't make clear sense... it's because I'm drinking beer.

[snowjob]

This carb, I believe has a tendency to leak if the screws that hold the float bowl on are overtightened. It deforms the tabs the screws go in and won't evenly seal.