Transmission Mount

[ClemsonScout]

Here is one source...

http://www.superscoutspecialists.com...-scout-ii.aspx

[Doc Stewart]

Any IH dealer has those rubber blocks - also any Case-IH dealer. They were used on lightline, medium duty. I have seen the same block on a semi as a cab buffer. They were also used on some farm equipment.

To change your engine mounts, use a block of wood more than the width of the oil pan to lift the engine up with your floor jack. Go slow and watch the fan - release the shroud. Watch hoses and wires, also - Very carefully. A few inches of lift will usually allow you to jiggle and curse the old mounts out and new ones in.

Always remember to curse in a foreign language when children are present.

[ajdata]

Thanks.

[D. Webb]

I used the block of wood under the oil pan method and although it worked it did slightly dent in the pan. No adverse effects, just a tiny indentation. Because I'm impatient and stupid I just laid the block of wood across the drain plug and thats what caused the dent. SO next time I might take a hole saw and make a little relief spot in the block to accomodate the plug or I might just remove the drain plug and change oil while i'm at it. Again, unbolt your fan shroud! Also, I loosened up my trans mount (couldn't hurt). Loosen and remove all the old gooped up bolts and washers from old engine mounts. Jack it up SLOWLY watching everything! (Don't ask.) Again, I'm stupid and impatient (getting better though!). Once you're up far enough wiggle out the old mount. I think I did the pass. side first. Put in the new mount and just put washers and nuts on a couple of threads. The drivers side proved to be slightly more difficult. But, repeating the steps from the other side with a little ratchet strap, pry bar, and foreign language cursin' action it went right in. Tighten up everything, bolt up fan shroud. Don't forget to tighten up trans mount if you loosen it up! (Don't ask.) And you should be good to go. Good Luck! Remember! Being impatient sucks. (Don't ask!)

[Blind Driver]

I installed the same transmission mount of my trucks today. I checked out my engine mounts before I ordered the trans mount. No worry about denting my pan when the engine mounts are due...my pan is pre-dented

[mike4514]

I just installed a RPT tranny mount and I could tell a huge difference in vibration in the cab before I even got it back on the ground. This is a night and day difference. Very bad vibrations inside the cab. I check my motor mounts and they are in like new condition.

I got the mount with a bunch of parts I just picked up and thought it would be a good addition to the truck. My question is, where is the white piece of plastic supposed to go. The PO installed it directly under the mount. Should that go under the cross member?

I may just go back to the old rubber mount. Is anyone interested in a RPT mount, cheap?

[Doc Stewart]

I have used both the OEM style rubber mounts and the RPT poly mounts. If all is well, no horrible vibrations ensue. IF something is amis, the poly mounts will showcase it. After motor mounts, a driveshaft out of phase or balance is the next suspect.

[mike4514]

Heck I never got it back on the ground and the vibrations and harmonics were unreal. It feels like the solid steel motor mounts we used in the race cars. Every little vibration of the motor is sent directly to the steering wheel, it just shakes and vibrates just at an idle and reving it without the truck moving. Its just like a solid steel mount.

This truck has always been a very smooth and quiet ride so this is a night and day difference. I can see how someone might want this type of mount for a mud truck or off road use, but this seems way to much for a street truck.

Does this sound normal or did the PO put it together wrong?

If you start at the tranny mounting plate, there is 2 black hard rubber or poly pieces then a white, maybe teflon piece, then the cross memeber then the nuts on the bolts. It is pulled together very tight.

[Nevada S. Smith]

I didn't notice any vibrations after installing RPT motor and tranny mounts (345 w/727), but my OEM mounts were all shot to begin with. Don't loosen up your trans mount too much, I did my motor mounts first, with a shot trans mount and my motor slid back when I jacked it up-it was a real PITA to get it back in spot. I highly recommend getting a racheting wrench set, if you don't have one for the motor mounts. As all ready posted it is a pain doing the motor mounts, just be patient and turn/twist slide them around and you will get them in. If you get overlly frustrated, take a break for a bit.

[Jeff Ismail]

Originally Posted by mike4514

I just installed a RPT tranny mount and I could tell a huge difference in vibration in the cab before I even got it back on the ground. This is a night and day difference. Very bad vibrations inside the cab. I check my motor mounts and they are in like new condition.

I got the mount with a bunch of parts I just picked up and thought it would be a good addition to the truck. My question is, where is the white piece of plastic supposed to go. The PO installed it directly under the mount. Should that go under the cross member?

I may just go back to the old rubber mount. Is anyone interested in a RPT mount, cheap?

The RPT transmission and motor mounts do not cause vibration. Out of balance engines, drivelines, etc cause a vibration. Your install sounds incorrect. The white teflon piece goes on the bottom of the crossmember. The polyurethane pucks go on top of the crossmember. Also the newest versions of the RPT mount no longer have the teflon piece and now come with all urethane pucks.

For those looking for transmission mounts here is a link to all the different ones that we carry - http://www.shopih.com/TM.html