checklist for getting a barnfind up and running

[TBAKPhi22]

Sounds like fun... I got my '67 from a junkyard in Fallon, NV about an hour east of Reno/Tahoe. I trailered mine home and tuned it up, then fired it up. Didn't prime it at all. It was probably sitting there at least 10 years. Anyway, the only thing I would worry about is the brakes. Something that sits that long is bound to have bad seals on the master and wheel cylinders. I had to totally re-do all the brakes... New brake master, new shoes, wheel cylinders all around. Just keep that in mind.

[Bryan G]

Interesting regarding the Delvac 15w40 reccomendation. The '74 100 I'm bringing back to life has service records showing just that oil being used. I talked to a friend of mine who sells Mobil (since there isn't a convenient store near here to buy it from) and he felt, as I did, that it would be too heavy and to go with 10w30. (what I've always used in everything else) He hasn't brought me the oil, and this has me second guessing. Now, I have the AMC 258 so maybe it won't be as neccesary? I figured I would stick with Mobil at least, no sense changing now.

[Rusty Scout]

Got it for $350. Seems to really only have 36k miles on it Its a 1975 150 4x4 Omaha Orange I think , Black interior. No Major rustouts on the body as far as I can see. So now I gotta figure out how to get her home 250 miles. Maybe tow it with a big rope behind the scout slooooowly

[Fred Demmon]

As stated in post 31 there may be some issue with the brakes after sitting for so long. So I would be cautious about towing it with a rope/chain. The "towed" vehicle will need to stop the "towing" vehicle.

It sounds like you are limited on budget getting it home(hate to spend more getting it home than you did on the truck) I have been there in my younger days and did somethings that were not very smart. just be careful in what ever method you use.

[rusty]

Originally Posted by scoutboy74

Sorry, but I gotta say bad idea here. The worst thing you can do with a bone dry motor caused by years of non-rotation is to start cranking it over...even by hand. This is death, murder, kill on cam bearings. Pull the distributor and spin the oil pump clockwise for several minutes with a saw-ed off screwdriver chucked into a power drill. Add a cheapo mechanical oil pressure gauge to your list of recovery items. Remove a gallery plug just behind (firewall side) the stock pressure gauge location and connect the gauge. Observe at least 40 psi of pressure there for several minutes with the drill method. Then have a helper slowly crank the engine by hand with a breaker bar on the crank bolt. Then res-stab the dizzy, put the engine at top dead center. Pull the #8 spark plug and verify that it is at the top of the compression stroke by sticking a screwdriver in gently. You'll be able to feel the top of the piston. Take notice of which wire socket the rotor is pointing at. That's number 8 on the distributor. Connect the remaining plug wires in a clockwise fashion from there in the proper IH SV8 firing order. Only then are you good to go with the starter motor.

Quoted for truth. One of mine hadn't run in a couple years and I cranked it a long time trying to get oil up before I started it. It ran about 5 minutes then exploded. Lifters I think but I was too disgusted with myself to do any investigation.

[lev1a]

I always like to squirt some marvel mystery oil into each cylinder before cranking an engine that has sat. Pull the plugs add a couple good squirts with an oiling can turn her over by hand a few times and try to fire her. Guess everyone has there own methods.

[Rusty Scout]

I am considering priming the engine with a drill motor and 1.5 gals of marvel mystery oil after I drain whats in there. Then drain the marvel mystery oil and add 5w30 for the initial fire up and initial warm up. Drain again and then run a proper zinc oil after she is up and running. Maybe thats overkill.

I am brainstorming still about the safest way to get it home. Anyone know of a equipment rental place that might have a proper truck and trailer setup? Penske and Uhaul trailers are too small for the job according to their websites.

[Bill usn-1]

The problem was you were honest.
You have to tell them you are towing a ford ranger not an IH.

[Eric VanBuren]

Originally Posted by Bryan G

Interesting regarding the Delvac 15w40 reccomendation. The '74 100 I'm bringing back to life has service records showing just that oil being used. I talked to a friend of mine who sells Mobil (since there isn't a convenient store near here to buy it from) and he felt, as I did, that it would be too heavy and to go with 10w30. (what I've always used in everything else) He hasn't brought me the oil, and this has me second guessing. Now, I have the AMC 258 so maybe it won't be as neccesary? I figured I would stick with Mobil at least, no sense changing now.

The diesel rated 15-40's are the safest bet, no "gas" 10-30's that I have found on the market today have the zinc levels needed for flat tappet cams. There are a some 10-40's and 20-50's but not all. While all of the diesel rated 15-40 and synthetic 5-40 oils still have adequate zinc levels.

The only suitable Mobil products are the Delvac, the Mobil 1 "high mileage" 10-40 and 20-50 only, and 30wt.

[blybrook]

I concur with Bill USN-1; you have to tell them you are towing a ranger or light car (Neon is one I've used before) and they'll look at your tow rig & let you have at it. I've moved 3 scouts this way before getting my own trailer in the past year.

Good luck & drive safe.