checklist for getting a barnfind up and running

[thehud]

If it has been sitting a while, don't forget to spin it over several times with the coil wire off to get a little oil up top before you start it.

[scoutboy74]

Originally Posted by thehud

If it has been sitting a while, don't forget to spin it over several times with the coil wire off to get a little oil up top before you start it.

Sorry, but I gotta say bad idea here. The worst thing you can do with a bone dry motor caused by years of non-rotation is to start cranking it over...even by hand. This is death, murder, kill on cam bearings. Pull the distributor and spin the oil pump clockwise for several minutes with a saw-ed off screwdriver chucked into a power drill. Add a cheapo mechanical oil pressure gauge to your list of recovery items. Remove a gallery plug just behind (firewall side) the stock pressure gauge location and connect the gauge. Observe at least 40 psi of pressure there for several minutes with the drill method. Then have a helper slowly crank the engine by hand with a breaker bar on the crank bolt. Then res-stab the dizzy, put the engine at top dead center. Pull the #8 spark plug and verify that it is at the top of the compression stroke by sticking a screwdriver in gently. You'll be able to feel the top of the piston. Take notice of which wire socket the rotor is pointing at. That's number 8 on the distributor. Connect the remaining plug wires in a clockwise fashion from there in the proper IH SV8 firing order. Only then are you good to go with the starter motor.

[thehud]

Originally Posted by scoutboy74

Sorry, but I gotta say bad idea here. The worst thing you can do with a bone dry motor caused by years of non-rotation is to start cranking it over...even by hand. This is death, murder, kill on cam bearings. Pull the distributor and spin the oil pump clockwise for several minutes with a saw-ed off screwdriver chucked into a power drill. Add a cheapo mechanical oil pressure gauge to your list of recovery items. Remove a gallery plug just behind (firewall side) the stock pressure gauge location and connect the gauge. Observe at least 40 psi of pressure there for several minutes with the drill method. Then have a helper slowly crank the engine by hand with a breaker bar on the crank bolt. Then res-stab the dizzy, put the engine at top dead center. Pull the #8 spark plug and verify that it is at the top of the compression stroke by sticking a screwdriver in gently. You'll be able to feel the top of the piston. Take notice of which wire socket the rotor is pointing at. That's number 8 on the distributor. Connect the remaining plug wires in a clockwise fashion from there in the proper IH SV8 firing order. Only then are you good to go with the starter motor.

The deal is he may not have access to electricity to use the drill to prime the oil pump. I would rather take my chances trying to at least get a little oil up top before the engine fired than to just start it dry. Sometimes you can't always use the best methods, you have to work with what you can do at that time.

[Ki Areese]

In light of the last couple of posts I would say a battery operated drill as well.

Your not planning on driving this any distance are you? I assume you just want to make sure it will run. If that's the case, it won't be running very long, will it?

[thehud]

Originally Posted by Ki Areese

In light of the last couple of posts I would say a battery operated drill as well.

I guess he could go out there with an old brace and bit to turn the oil pump. I would think that would be hard on elbows to spin it fast enough!

[scoutboy74]

Then yeah, better get a cordless drill or a generator to provide electricty. this isn't conjecture. We're not dealing with maybe's and could be's here. Cranking a dry engine even one full rotation slowly by hand let alone cranking it fast and hard with a starter motor several times is not a good idea. It's metal on metal, pure and simple. Just think how long engines would last if they all came with an electric pre-oiling pump in the crankcase that an operator could engage for a minute prior to EVERY cold start, like some aircraft engines have. 500k miles before rebuild would be the norm, not the exception. We all know this is where the majority of engine wear occurs. Cranking a dry engine over even a few times accelerates this wear exponentially. Is it worth it just to hear the thing cough and sputter to life right away? Not to me. I know it's an exciting prospect, reviving a dead dog motor. Believe me. I've been there. It's why we do this stuff. As long as the motor isn't siezed up, it will run again. It's only smart to temper our enthusiam for getting it running immediately with that knowledge, so that proper revival procedures can be followed, if not at the current location, then back at the shop after it comes off the trailer.

[michaeldimock]

I would bring a known working distributor from another v8 rig, as if it is a different distributor than what you got points for, then you'll have to hope the one in it is good.... Good luck on your retrieval and if it is a battery operated drill, it better be an 18 volt 1/2 inch HD drill, and hopefully you have more than 1 battery. Once that oil pump picks up its prime, you'll know if your drill is good or not. Have fun.

[thehud]

Originally Posted by scoutboy74

Then yeah, better get a cordless drill or a generator to provide electricty. this isn't conjecture. We're not dealing with maybe's and could be's here. Cranking a dry engine even one full rotation slowly by hand let alone cranking it fast and hard with a starter motor several times is not a good idea. It's metal on metal, pure and simple. Just think how long engines would last if they all came with an electric pre-oiling pump in the crankcase that an operator could engage for a minute prior to EVERY cold start, like some aircraft engines have. 500k miles before rebuild would be the norm, not the exception. We all know this is where the majority of engine wear occurs. Cranking a dry engine over even a few times accelerates this wear exponentially. Is it worth it just to hear the thing cough and sputter to life right away? Not to me. I know it's an exciting prospect, reviving a dead dog motor. Believe me. I've been there. It's why we do this stuff. As long as the motor isn't siezed up, it will run again. It's only smart to temper our enthusiam for getting it running immediately with that knowledge, so that proper revival procedures can be followed, if not at the current location, then back at the shop after it comes off the trailer.

Then they should drain the oil as well since over time it will damage the bearings due to acidity issues. And they should probably replace the oil with break in and start up oil to minimize the damage to the valve train since the lobes and lifters will be dry as well. That is if we are working in an ideal situation where we can in a practical means accomplish all of these tasks.

If you have a tractor, do you do any special procedures after it has sat for 8 months before you start it? How about your lawn mower?

I have agreed with you from the beginning that it isn't wise to fire an engine with a dry rotating assembly, but the methods and means to remediate that condition vary from person to person.

[stu simpson]

Originally Posted by thehud

Then they should drain the oil as well since over time it will damage the bearings due to acidity issues. And they should probably replace the oil with break in and start up oil to minimize the damage to the valve train since the lobes and lifters will be dry as well. That is if we are working in an ideal situation where we can in a practical means accomplish all of these tasks.

.

X2, don't forget to use a clean filter too. I would recommend a lighter oil, 10W-X and change it once the engine has been reprimed.

[Socrates]

A pre-oiler you can add to your engine for longer, happier life? Easy:

http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html

It will even help your International handle the G-forces in road race and autoX courses...now that would be a sight, wouldn't it!