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  #11  
Old 08-09-2009, 02:23 AM
bruno bruno is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: sinaai, belgium
Posts: 65
Default Re: Fixing the D-1200 140" 4x4

pumping the brakes and are already done this?


GTZ, Bruno
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'59 International B-180 Dumptruck
'64 vw Beetle convertible(resto)
'66 International C-1200 Travelall (tow truck)
'72 vw "Spär"beetle(resto)
'72 Hercules K125BW (daily)
'73 vw 1600 TA Fastback (for sale)
'68 zündapp (If it's to hot to drive my daily)
HA-74 11-17-1951
HA-74 09-15-1951

Last edited by Bill usn-1; 08-09-2009 at 10:50 AM.
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  #12  
Old 08-11-2009, 12:46 PM
stefaan-c1200 stefaan-c1200 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: sint-niklaas belgium
Posts: 43
Default Re: Fixing the D-1200 140" 4x4

he bruno I dont think he had the time yet, he got the seals for his rear axle only yesterday the front pump????
He already back from holyday ? you only went one week?
greetings stefaan
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1964 scout 80
1964 C1200 travelette
1938 D 15 delivery truck
1921 s-series truck
1968 Co-loadstar 1600 D
1968 800a
1947 WD-6 traktor
1944 ID-6
1968 FV 265 D traktor
1926 10/20 traktor
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  #13  
Old 08-11-2009, 04:00 PM
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ChrisCo ChrisCo is offline
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Belgium
Posts: 43
Default Re: Fixing the D-1200 140" 4x4

Yep, I didn’t had to much free time to work on the Travelette, But that about to change.
After the Danish meeting, the BOTC truck show and some other personal stuff I had to spend some time with the wife and kids. (You know, the story of the church and the middle of the road :-))
So I did some things around the house and had some quality time with the family.
Anyhow, yesterday I received the seals for the rear axle, the ones between the brake drums an the axle.
All other parts are cleaned and ready to be mounted, so at least the rear axle will be done.
I had the idea of upgrading the brakes to have more brake power, so I bought some larger brake cylinders and intended to mount them in front. When removing the old brake lines I realized that she’s equipped with a hydrovac, and that I didn’t take that into account.
So now I’m back on the original track and waiting for the smaller original brake cylinders.
When disassembling the front brake lines I also found out that the engine needs a big cleaning and needs some new seals to prevent loss of water.
Don’t know how they are called in English, the round iron seals that break when the water is frozen in the engine.
Mine aren’t broken, but rusting away.
Still a lot of work to do, but it will be done..
Once the rear axle is done I’ll add some new pictures.
Greetings,
Chrisco
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1965 D-1200-140 4x4 travelette.
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  #14  
Old 09-03-2009, 03:22 PM
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sammynomas sammynomas is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Mustang, Ok
Posts: 158
Default Re: Fixing the D-1200 140" 4x4

Those are the freezeplugs....I believe brass is the recomended replacement material.
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  #15  
Old 10-09-2009, 03:58 AM
londonsteve londonsteve is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: London
Posts: 27
Default Re: Fixing the D-1200 140" 4x4

Hi in Europe they're called the core plugs .
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  #16  
Old 10-09-2009, 07:17 AM
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pri pri is offline
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Malmo, Sweden
Posts: 1,331
Default Re: Fixing the D-1200 140" 4x4

Depends on where in Europe you are... In Sweden they're called "frost plugs"...
But I guess almost everybody gets the general idea whether you say frost, freeze, or core plugs. Just semantics...
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1967 IH 1000B with GM 6.2D, TH700R4, running WVO and BioDiesel.
1964 IH C1200 4x4. The new one...
Build-up pics at: Paul's IH Pages (updated Sept 7, 2012)
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  #17  
Old 12-04-2011, 04:10 PM
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ChrisCo ChrisCo is offline
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Belgium
Posts: 43
Default Re: Fixing the D-1200 140" 4x4

Finally found some free time to work on the truck. mounted brakedrums today and checked out how to have them adjusted correctly.
adjusted them according to the books with a clearance of 0,015 " (or 0,38 mm) only thing I'm doubting a bit is the correct tensioning of the wheel bearings and the mounting of the axle nuts.

For the tensioning I've blocked the first nut untill I didn't find any play between axle and brakedrum. Next step would be mounting the locking plate (don't know the exact terminology) with the preformed angle mounted towards the already mounted nut and then finalize by adding the second nut on the axle and locking it by bending the locking plate.
I guess that would be the right way to do things, but since I didn't dismantled the axle my self and I can't find any details on that part in my books I'm not 100% sure
I have to replace the locking plates because they are used to many times so I'll finalize this when the new ones will be delivered.
Suggestions on tension and locking the nuts are always welcome. I think I have the right appoach, but better be safe than sorry afterwards..
I'll add pictures and details of the mounting job later on.
Greetings,
Christophe.
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1965 D-1200-140 4x4 travelette.

Last edited by ChrisCo; 01-15-2012 at 03:46 PM.
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  #18  
Old 02-17-2012, 09:38 AM
68torquemonster 68torquemonster is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: ft collins, co
Posts: 45
Default Re: Fixing the D-1200 140" 4x4

try travelallparts.com !!! they generally have a good source of parts!!
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  #19  
Old 05-08-2012, 01:26 AM
Hostekes Hostekes is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Aalst
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Default Re: Fixing the D-1200 140" 4x4

Hello,

Already found the pumps,
I usualy get these in Belgium...
Bought cylinders for the b series and loadstars there...

greetings
Michael
"hostekes"
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  #20  
Old 05-08-2012, 07:54 PM
Doc Stewart Doc Stewart is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: San Francisco, CA 94066
Posts: 7,222
Default Re: Fixing the D-1200 140" 4x4

Wheel pumps in the USA are called Wheel cylinders

To set the bearing tension on the rear axle:
Tighten the inner nut to 50 ft pounds.
Spin the wheel a bit.
Back off one flat of the nut.
Install the locking washer with the pre bent tab inward.
turn the outer nut in to 80 ft pounds and secure the lock washer tab. Some manuals say 100 ft pounds but I have not used that number.
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