Members Rides

[Paul Morgan]

Adam said he uses a PPG product also for the primer
Just say no to the spray can lol
As far as the diamond plate goes, you can use the 3M panel adhesive
I forgot the number, its like 4100 or 5100
You don't have to use it on the top, you use it between the panels
On the top you could run seam sealer
You can use sheet metal screws, but I think I'm just going to lay it in and weigh it down along the seams with scrap metal or parts until it dries

[RailRiderHD]

Dont listen to Paul,, he has issues we all would take years to understand ha ha. Definetly use a paint gun to primer, you will be much happier, it'll take you forever to prime the whole scout with a can and will never be even, lots of runs, but if you use a paint gun with a good primer and reducer it will turn out way better and way faster. Remember with a paint gun you can control your flow and pattern, spray can......not so much.

[sullyscout77]

I was planning on tearing the old rusty deck out completely, but now you got me wondering if I would be compromising the structural fortitude of the tub by going back with merely aluminum diamond plate. Dirk, you're the Engineer amongst us. What's your take on this? My deck plate is only seriously non-existent along the fender wells and by the tailgate. Should I remove all rust, prime and sandwich for the strength, or "gut the pig", ?

[Fred Demmon]

Here is the fleet
75 SII
65 80
77 SII
75 SII
73 SII

[Dirk Kolnsberg]

Originally Posted by sullyscout77

I was planning on tearing the old rusty deck out completely, but now you got me wondering if I would be compromising the structural fortitude of the tub by going back with merely aluminum diamond plate. Dirk, you're the Engineer amongst us. What's your take on this? My deck plate is only seriously non-existent along the fender wells and by the tailgate. Should I remove all rust, prime and sandwich for the strength, or "gut the pig", ?

Sully,

I started a new thread for paint and body work discussions and posted some of my quick thoughts there. Take a look and let me know if it helps.

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...504#post560504

Dirk

[sullyscout77]

Dirk, The stance on Jeepeater is really stout! How did you overcome the typical "scout sag" in the rear? I noticed that most sag like mine, but J/E looks "jacked-up". Was this the "custom-order" springs you had mentioned or have you added on since then? Also a little more info on the "pimped-out" wheels & skins.

[Dirk Kolnsberg]

Originally Posted by sullyscout77

Dirk, The stance on Jeepeater is really stout! How did you overcome the typical "scout sag" in the rear? I noticed that most sag like mine, but J/E looks "jacked-up". Was this the "custom-order" springs you had mentioned or have you added on since then? Also a little more info on the "pimped-out" wheels & skins.

As you can see from the first picture, I too had the saggy rear syndrome at one time. Through some minor surgery, a little bit of lifting and spring repositioning my rear now sits nice and high and is the envy of many Scout owners .

Right now according to one of the main body lines down the side of the Scout, running about door handle height, it sits about 2 1/2" high in the rear. Although I like the look that is a little too much for me, so I need to level it out about an inch or so. The reason it sits higher right now is that in the rear I did a spring over with stock springs and used Ruff Stuff Specialty anti-axle wrap style spring pads that add another inch or so compared to the original spring under pads. I still have to put in the rear seat, finish the rear bumper, build a tire carrier and a 35" spare to mount up that will all add weight to the rear and bring it down some. On the front I have the original Alcan Spring lift springs (thanks for letting me keep them for mock up Holt) in a spring under now but will probably move up to a little taller spring to get everything dialed in where I want it.

As for the wheels and tires, while I liked the sleeper look of the black rims I wanted a little more flash and dazzle. Off came the 33 X 12.5 X 15 ProComp mud terrains on 15 X 8 Rockcrawler steel rims and on went the fancy 35 X 12.5 X 17 BFG new style mud terrains and 17 X 9 ProComp aluminum rims. I like the look as to me it helps tie together all the custom work and compliments the go fast shiney bits under the hood.

[Paul Morgan]

Hey Dirk,
Fill up a big aluminum box in the rear like BillUSN1, that will drop your rear end (that's highly sought after and admired) down an inch or so
Check out Bill's thread for being prepared
Dude was definitely a Boy Scout LOL

Also, if you haven't already, read through Bill's threads on EFI, he wrote the book on budget IH

[WRECKTHOSECARS]

let's see some more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Paul Morgan]

Where's the rest of the crowd's pics