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#1
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I have decided to go with a 4in spring lift. On top of that would it be better to go with a 1 inch body lift or a 1 inch shackle lift? From what I have read the body lift will require little to nothing to make it work as long it is 1 inch and not larger. Does the shackle lift require anything addition such as castor shims? I will also of course be installing longer brake lines too. Thanks for the help! - Mike |
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#2
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If you install poly body mount bushings, you should net 1/2"+ of body lift over stock crushed bushings. It will be enough to require lowering the fan shroud and the steering column/firewall pass-through.
The only use I've found for extended spring shackles (+ 1.5" over stock length) is in the rear to level the back when the truck is loaded. In the front, extended shackles often cause caster (= poor steering) issues. If you are going to use 33" tires on a Scout II with a 4" spring lift, extended bumpstops are highly recommended.
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'75 & '76 Scout IIs Amateur radio operator, General Class - K6IHC Work Smart, Not Hard... |
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#3
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Mike,
While I agree with Eric on the poly body mounts, I have to disagree with the extended shackle advice. I have done several spring lifts, and if you intend to do any wheeling with your Scout, I recommend a shackle that is 2.0 inches longer when you install a 4" lift. The reason for this is, that when you use a 4" lift spring, it is longer than the stock spring. When compressing the lift spring, it grows longer than the stock one. If you use a stock shackle it puts undue strain on the shackle hanger. This is the cause of many hangers being ripped from the frame. Another problem that occurs is that the shackles can flip rearward and lock into place and cause the suspention to lock up in the front. This requires you to lift the Scout up and pry the shackle forward to get things free. If it happens once, it will continue to happen until you put longer shackles on. BTDT ![]() As for the caster on the front end, it will add positive caster. (not good) You might want to add shims to get it back. My trail truck has a 1980 front end, and it drives good without shims. If you lift, add longer shackles, and wheel this truck, I would also recommend that you add reinforcements to the shackle hangers. These can be made by you, or order ones from venders one this site. The longer bumpstop is also a good idea. It will keep the tires out of the sheetmetal when you flex. Ray
__________________
Triple Diamond Fourwheelers www.triplediamond.org 1980 Traveler Turbo Diesel "Black Beauty" 1974 Scout II 258 I6 "Ole Yeller" 1962 Scout 196 "Sarge" |
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#4
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I used 2 inch shackles with 6* castor shims
__________________
The stable: 1973 Scout II 1954 R-162 |
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#5
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Thank you for all the replies. I really appreciate the all input.
I would be using this as a dual purpose truck. It will not be a daily driver but will see some regular time on the black top. It will also be driven to the trail so it does need to retain it's road manners. If I put the lift shackles in is it a deffinate that I would need caster shims as well? Should I plan on installing them at the same time? |
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#6
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Mike,
That would be the best time to do it! Ray
__________________
Triple Diamond Fourwheelers www.triplediamond.org 1980 Traveler Turbo Diesel "Black Beauty" 1974 Scout II 258 I6 "Ole Yeller" 1962 Scout 196 "Sarge" |
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#7
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Caster shims aren't required, but you'll have better straight-line tracking/steering wheel recentering with them. Of course there's another trade-off: your pinion angle on your front axle gets worse with the caster shims. If you search for terms such as "cut and turn" you'll find tons of reading on the "right" way to solve this problem.
Long story short, if you decide to use the extended shackles, I would say just try them and see how the steering feels to you. If you don't like the results, then consider the shims. You'll get away with it despite the poor pinion angle, but might need to replace the front drive shaft u-joint(s) on occasion.
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Joe Costanzo '78 Scout II |
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#8
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Quote:
Actually, installing front extended shackles will add negative caster to the front axle, as it *tips* the front axle forward. I like a few degrees of positive caster in my solid front axles. If the extended bumpstops are of the proper length, the springs will only compress a specific distance (and not into a negative arch). You can always install the front shackles to try it out, and remove them later if you desire. I still don't really like extended (> 1.5" over stock) front shackles.
__________________
'75 & '76 Scout IIs Amateur radio operator, General Class - K6IHC Work Smart, Not Hard... |
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#9
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Ian from TORC made me some nice shackles
They add about an inch With the Superlift 4" springs, the factory shackles didn't work too well Now with a little bigger shackle, it looks more correct The shackles themselves don't point outward like the stock setup, they hang more vertical Have'nt wheeled it yet, but it looks better especially with the new springs I definitely didn't want the monster 12" crapshackles on there like I've seen |
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#10
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Quote:
Did you use shims as well? |
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| Tags |
| 1980 , axle , axles , binderplanet , body , caster , column , flex , frame , front , front end , hanger , lift , lock , pictures , poor , roll , scout , scout ii , shackle , spring lift , steering , tires , truck , u-joint |
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