'68 Trav Tcase options?

[carnuck]

I'm guesstimating on the engine RPM from the sound. (like it's about to come through the hood)
The carb was taken apart and cleaned, with a new kit and float installed (glass window in the carb makes the level easy to see) The truck will idle fine when it's sitting still. When I come to a stop, if I don't hit the brakes and just let it coast in neutral, it's fine. As soon as I touch the brakes while rolling, it's like a carb with electric idle circuit. Unless I have the RPMs up, it shuts off like the key was switched and it's a royal B!TCH to start again unless I have my foot to the floor. Pumping the gas does no good. Pouring gas in the carb doesn't make it light up right away like it's starved or anything. I had my son crank the motor and the spark drops way down. When cold, it fires right up and idles fine, even without the choke (it's manual) after less than a minute.
I have 30 years as a mechanic under my belt and I've never seen anything like this except in an AMC 6 with cam walk.
It's like idling makes the coil overheat (I didn't install the Pertronix setup, but I did inspect the wires for fraying when I took the dist apart last year)

[carnuck]

As an update to this old thread, I have the 304/BW auto about ready to come out of the '66 Trav parts truck. It's now in pieces and about ready to haul off the rest as scrap. Still have the doors, tailgate (power, but rusty along the bottom), fenders, hood and for now the front suspension. I found an O/D for the BW auto which should help top speed and fuel economy a bit.
After the motor is out, I'll check on swapping the steering box (both Ross boxes are shot and scary to drive with) for the '84 full size Bronco box I have. Parts rig is 2wd with torsion bar front suspension if anyone is interested (the ad I posted was nuked for some reason?)