PROJECT: INTL 4X4 - 1968 Travelall 4x4

[LeeC]

Originally Posted by pri

...By the way, the spring loaded rear body mounts are not a "last year round body" modification. I've got them on my '67 too... Haven't checked the '64 for them but I'll take a peek later this week.

I hadn't seen them before. My 65 and 66 didn't have them, but they were 2wd. The only other 4x4's I've owned were both 72's. Maybe they are the norm for older 4x4's. Slick design either way.

Thanks for the complement and encouragement!

[LeeC]

Also cleaned up and painted the 1-ton engine cross member mount and front body horns.

I noticed the 1/2 ton mount I took out had a short piece of metal between the cross member and the frame rail, so I made up a similar angle iron strengthening piece for the 1-ton backet that wraps up the frame side rail as well. More G8 bolts holding it all on...

[Jeff Jamison]

Neither of my 68 travelalls had the spring mounts,both 1100 4x4 and neither did the 68 1000.I would make a 1 inch body lift.I did on the one I sold,I dont like how close the body was to the frame at the lower firewall.
Jeff

[LeeC]

Originally Posted by Jeff Jamison

Neither of my 68 travelalls had the spring mounts,both 1100 4x4 and neither did the 68 1000.I would make a 1 inch body lift.I did on the one I sold,I dont like how close the body was to the frame at the lower firewall.
Jeff

With only a 1" body lift, did you have to deal with "other" issues? How did you add 1" to the front main body horn large rubber mounts? The other attachment locations appear to only require simiple thicker spacers.

Pri - I'm a big K.I.S.S. fan as well. If there are major "other" issues with a body lift, then I will most like omit it.

The suspension lift will likely be the decider. If everything is already 4"-5" higher, not sure I want more.

SIDE NOTE: The picture of the 68 Travelall at the beginning this thread and in my current avitar has a 2.5" lift. It had 2.5" homemade blocks in the front and two of those homemade blocks in the rear with a rear shackle flip, but IIRC the tires were only 31"'s.

[Jeff Jamison]

I used one inch steel blocks on all but the front mounts under the cab,these wher 1 inchblock that I welded 2 1/2 inch peices down the sides to hold them in.There was no other issue other than cutting the 4x4 shifter hole alittle larger.
Jeff

[Bill Bennett]

IF you will be using the stock gas tank inlet position and the stock filler tube from the front fenders, raising the body will raise the filler tube and tank inlet. The short 1 1/4" rubber fuel hose from the fender into the tank will be blocked by the body mount on the frame. Normally, the fuel hose would run under the mount.
Bill Bennett

[LeeC]

Hi Bill -

Aren't both fuel tanks on a Travelall connected only to the body? If so, then I don't follow you on how anything related to the gas tank would change if everything moved up 1"?

I don't have an installed tank to look at. Are you saying the frame main body mount horn is "above" the fuel fill? If so, then I see your point. The frame horn would end up 1" further away from the body, thus requiring a 1" longer fill. Right?

For what it is worth, I will likely be fabricating new "metal" fuel fill tubes anyway. I am accually thinking about putting a drivers side saddle tank on the passenger side (with the fill pointing back), along with a 72 drivers side upper rear quarter panel fuel tank in the passenger side spare tire location that drains into the saddle tank. This is only a general concept at this point. Might be more trouble than it is worth...

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By the way, do you have a thread here that contains your Mercedes Benz freash air cleaner install?

[Bill Bennett]

The route for the gas into the tanks goes under the frame bracket for the body mount. Raising the body - with the gas tanks raises the gas supply hose directly at the body mount. I had added a piece of 1/2" plywood to lift the firewall to better align the fender gap to the doors about 25 years ago. I had to cut a notch at the underside of the mount so the fuel could get into the tank. But that was just a 1/2" lift.
I don't have a thread for the MB housing as no one else seemed interested. I did take a lot of pictures and as I have the 304 engine with a 1" phenolic spacer under the carb, I still think the setup would work on the 345/392 engine but maybe not with the 1" spacer under the carb. I don't know if the 4bbl carbs are any taller than the 2300 2bbl carbs or if the thermostat housing on the 345/392 is higher than on the 304 engines. That could prevent the front edge of the MB housing from being able to fit flat on the carb.
But - if you raise the body the 1 inch, that could solve any space issues by using the 'full height' Holley carb adapter.
I do have a 2nd MB housing and a extra 'modified adapter' for the 2300 carb/304 engine. They could be used to give you enough information as to whether it would work on your truck. I don't have any inlet ducting but the housing doesn't necessairly need it. If you will run a A/C unit where the alternator normally is located, that could cause a problem with the ductworks route.
Bill Bennett Torrance, CA

[pri]

Hmmm... Let me think a second...
From what I remember the fuel filler tube goes above the bracket that is riveted to the frame, so it shouldn't be a problem with a lift.
I'll attach a picture...

[LeeC]

Thanks Pri - That is what I seemed to remember from my past rigs...

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BillB - Hope you have a quick recovery! Let me know down the road if your 68 reg'd as a 69 is different. God's speed!!!