PROJECT: INTL 4X4 - 1968 Travelall 4x4

[LeeC]

Here's a quick napkin drawing of my Awning Roof Rack idea:

That's me smiling under my winged Travelall roof rack!

[LeeC]

Nothing but 392V8 meat and bones now...



The frame looks great, but I did find a problem. The NP205 transfercase mount is cracked big time. Is this a common problem???

[LeeC]

After comparing the bare 72 and 68 frames, I now see why the venerable JimG and JohnD recommended using the 68 frame. There are differences that will need to be addressed that may be more trouble than it is worth... I may surrender to the all mighty experienced ones and use the 68 frame after all

Considering subing the frame out for stripping or sand blasting and powder coating or other primer/paint. I don't mind getting my fingernails dirty, but like wrenching better. Sure would be nice to start this biuld with a complete freshly painted like new frame on saw horses and just start bolting things on. That's the way I like it!

ANY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DOING THE FRAME WORK IN THE 5FWY & 14FWY AREA, LOS ANGELES, CA? MAYBE SAN FERNANDO OR SUNLAND AREA???

Let the wrenching begin!

[LeeC]

Check out my new engine and tranny stand! I chopped up an old 72 Pickup frame for the scrappers that was no good for nothing (so I originally thought), but wait... I need an engine and tranny stand (pretend that halo is a light bulb, because a halo just doesn't fit my head). Just added some Habor Freight steel wheels and a HD trailer neck wheel and WAL-LA!!!



May add a battery box, small gas tank and switch panel so I can start them up someday too

The INTL 4X4 PROJECT is moving along. The 72 Travelall is no more. Cut up and donated to the smelter The 68 Travelall frame that will be used is now free and clear of all its boltings and sitting on a couple of saw horses for cleaning and painting.




ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A GOOD RUST PREVENTATIVE PRIMER/PAINT FOR THE FRAME?
(The powder coat guys wanted $700 to blast and coat... that ain't happen'n)

[ClemsonScout]

I use POR-15, but there are many choices out there.. Eastwoods is another highly recommended as well.

You can pick up POR-15 at most auto paint shops or on eBay.

Keep it rollin!

[dwebster8783]

man I got to hand it to ya. I was thinking about selling my travelall because I had to move but now that I dont I am getting the urge to go out and start working on mine again after reading your thread. I have some roof rack scetches posted that I made. It sound like something you are talking about. I designed mine so it can be removed with a couple guys and some beer. I am still building it but when I am done it will have a room on the driver, pass side and the rear. It will have a small 35 gallon plastic water tank for a gravity feed shower/sink over head camper ladder so as it can be folded up and put away when driving. racks for two gas cans, KC light front and rear, lockable rod holder, shuvle/jack clamp, and on the right rear corner I have reinforced the piller of the body and i am installing a small generator. I am also in the process of building a front bumper with lots of lights, on board air tank, winch and tool box for some chains. cant wait to see more pics of yours.

[LeeC]

WOW! That sounds like some trail rig: hydro-boost (got a thread on that conversion?), air pump, welder, generator, shower, awning-tent, etc... I like what I'm hearing.

WE NEED PICS!!!

[LeeC]

After a relaxing 3-dayer with no laboring on Labor Day, I did some serious comparing on the 68 and 72 Travelall 4x4 frames to see exactly what it will take to use the 72 (my preference). I know, I know... I'm changing my mind more than a woman does each month, but after removing the 68 steering box I found some steering box mount frame damage on the 68. Mounting holes ripped right out and real messy. It was all bolted on with some make-shift 1/4" steel plates covering the factory mounting holes. In addition, one of the shock mount holes has been ripped out as if this thing took some kind of hard front end blow or air born smack-down. It makes me wonder what happen to cause these problems and what else might be funky on that frame that I can't see (bent?).

I know the 72 frame is clean and I'd actually prefer using that one with a nice heavy duty Reese trailer hitch setup already on it with the longer rear frame it offers. Plus the 72 doesn't need to be stripped. It's clean, painted and has the 392V8 already on it. A little pressure washing, simple clean up and paint touch up should do it.

So, here's what I see is needed to drop the 68 Travelall body onto the 72 Travelall frame:

1) Main front side body mounts (the horns near the drivers and passengers feet) need to be removed from the 68 and the 72, then the 68's mounted further forward than the 72 factory holes (actual measurements not taken yet).

2) All the other frame body mounts on the 72 need to be removed and tossed out.

3) The four other body mounts on the 68 need to be removed and installed on the 72. Two of the mounts have holes already in the right location on the 72 frame, so they are a straight bolt on. the other two need to be measured out, holes drilled and installed at the same location as on the 68.

4) Unlike the 72 body, the four 68 body most rear bolts go through the top of the frame rail, so they will be easy to duplicate if no holes are already there.

5) I've been told that at least about a 1/2" must be cut off the rear of the 72 frame to clear the 68 body, because the frame is quite a bit longer. It looks like I have about 1" before I hit the Reese trailer hitch, so I will likely cut everything past the hitch mounts off to give clearance.

That appears to be the basics, althought I haven't found a way to measure the front of the frame body mount location. It appears in the right location, but height is difficult to determine.

If anyone that has done this will please chime in, I'd be greatly appreciative. I may try to do a write-up on this with photos for future reference, but can't be held to any definite timeline on that. I never know when I can break free to work on Project INTL 4X4.

[LeeC]

I have two '72 NP205's (gear driven) that are loose and one '68 NP203 (chain driven) that is tight. I also have two '72 transfercase mounts that are cracked and in need of repair and one '68 transfercase mount setup that is in great shape. My INTL4X4 TRAVELALL PROJECT has a 392V8 mated to a T-35 5-speed with Chebby 3/4 ton axles and 34.5" BFG AT's. I'm wondering what setup I should use?

1) Is the older '68 transfercase mounting setup stronger and better than the redesigned '72? (as both '72 cross members are cracked and bent) Is this caused by the extra set of rubber mounts giving too much flex? (the '68 only has the top four rubber mounts and the frame mounts are thick strong metal bolted directly to the frame)

2) If the NP203 is tighter (less slop) when grabbing the yokes and moving them in opposite directions, should I use the NP203? (I'm assuming less wear?)

3) What are the advantages of the NP203 chain driven transfercase vs. the NP205 gear driven transfercase? (I've heard some say they like the chain driven better, but never get a clarification why other than sometimes making it easier to disengage the 4x4)

My INTL4X4 project is using a '72 Travelall frame and '68 Travelall body. I'm doing a body-off, frame-up job. It looks like the '68 transfercase mounting setup can easily be installed on the '72 frame, so any combination of mounts and transfercases can be used. Your advice and opinions needed. Thanks.

[jeepdaddy2000]

The NP 203 is an early full time case. In my opinion not worth the iron they are made of. The chains stretch and need replacement which is a real PITA. Somewhere around 75 the differential went from a hardened case to a stamped steel affair which spits the front engagement teeth. This is especially prevalent with MM part time conversions. The 205, however, is a good strong part time case. If you suspect a problem with it pop it open and inspect it.