33-Gal In-tank Fuel Pump Installation

[Dave Clifton]

Some details I’ve come across for In-Tank Fuel Pumps… specific to steel 33-gallon aftermarket fuel tank.

1.Northwest Metal Products sells for $45 a complete in-tank fuel pump mounting assembly. They don’t list it in their catalog; you have to call them for it. I was about to fabricate my own but this saved a lot of time and trouble. The tricky part if you build your own is the insulated and fuel leak-proof electrical connector in the center of the flange.

2.If you tell NMP it is for one of their Scout tanks, they will build it to the correct depth. Should you order a new tank, let them know you want it pre-installed and they will comply.

3.I thought it was of very high quality. See pics. The flange (1/8" thick)diameter is around 5” with 10 mounting holes. It comes with 10 #8 thread-cutting hex head screws. It requires you to cut a 3-1/2 to 3-3/4 hole in the tank top. Came complete with very good gasket (cork/rubber mix, very thick), all attachment screws and pre-wired with pigtails. 3/8” output line and 5/16” return line standard (thick walled too!). However, it is necked down from 3/8” to 5”16” at the pump attachment point since the pump (purchased separately) outputs at 5/16”.

4.In hindsight, I would ask them to extend the fuel line tubes several inches beyond the edge of the mounting flange so that you can flare them if desired and/or cut to length. I intend to use Dorman quick-connects and run nylon fuel lines. So I had to braze extensions to the tubes so I could flare them appropriately.

5.I went with the Delphi fuel pump #FE0115 (NAPA $51) and Delphi pump strainer #FS0001 (NAPA $5). The Delphi pump comes with a connector pigtail and so was easy to hook up to NWP’s pigtails. I attached the pump to the mount with wire ties (supplied by NWP). I didn’t cinch them tight at first. Just snug and then dropped the assembly inside the tank looking thru the fuel sender hole. I intentionally left the assembly/pump long so the bottom of the tank would set the total depth. Pulled the assembly out and subtracted about a ½ inch so the pump would never totally bottom out if the tank ever “oil cans” in temperature swings. I’ll add a photo of the finished tank as soon as I get it out in the sunlight.

HTH, now to weld on the 02 sensor bung and the rest of the FI installation.

[Bill usn-1]

Another good post Dave!!
I even thought ahead on mine and built an access cover into the floor of my scout just for future mods!!

One thing I noticed is it looks like the pump is hooked to the smaller 5/16 line and the larger 3/8 is open for the return...
If so, wou may want to swap them even if you use a small adapter to match the pump to the line.


EDIT
It looks like in the 3rd pic you brazed the different sizes on there.

[BO185]

I would be worried if you ran the tank low that the pump would lose fuel from not having anything to keep the fuel around the pump and could burn the pump up.

Most all stock in-tank pumps have shrouding around the pump to keep fuel from moving away from the pump in low fuel conditions. But if you never let the tank get real low then it would never be a problem.

But the pump looks great BTW.

[Dave Clifton]

VERY sharp eyes sir!

You're right. The simplest way to extend the tubes so I could flare them was to insert a 5/16" inside the 3/8" output and slip a 3/8" over the 5/16" return. Then braze.

I thought about it for quite a while. Finally, decided I didn't want to totally cut out the existing tubes and replace them and since the pump outputs to 5/16" anyway I felt another few inches of 5/16" wouldn't hurt anything.

I will run 3/8" from here on to the TBI and 5/16" return. Just have to remember which is which when I hook them up .

I was curious how long it would take for someone to notice. Knew someone would because you guys are GOOD!

BTW, its really not too late for me to rethink this and do over. Think I should??