Lift kit install Questions

[sean30ber]

Need a little help, I got a 4'' lift off a fellow binderhead and there are no instructions. Ive never installed a lift. Ill have all the parts by this weekend and would like to put it in. I have a high Lift, 3 ton floor jack, 2- 3 ton jack stands and all the tools. PS is that enough jack stands? What im looking for is a guide to install it. not something long, Just kind of remove this first, this second. bolt this first and so on. I also want to be as safe as possible and not crush myself. so any tips on stand or jack placements. One big ? i have is brake lines. Some people say they dont go extended.Is this a must or can I get by for a month untill I can go stainless. No off roading for now. Ive looked and cant find what im looking for, so if its already posted somewhere could you guide me to it. I could have sworn someone did a detailed install write up. Thanks alot guys. Sean

[Bruce Shealy]

I would attempt to contact the Mfg of the lift and start there if it was detailed instructions I was looking for. Might even be able to snag some online. I would check Rough Country, Skyjacker, Triangle to see if anything was available on the Net.

[sandman22]

i can give you detailed info if you like shoot me an email and illv give you the info its not hard just sort of time consuming i would allow a weekend to do it

let me know

dan
stevensbodypaint@aol.com

[sean30ber]

Thanks Bruce I didnt think of that. I just down loaded skyjackers instructions. The one other question is will I need extended brake line to do the install or can I get away with the stock for now if I dont do any off-roading.

[ragtopkid]

If you aren't flexing it you can get by with the stock brake lines.

[Mark Ashford]

Originally Posted by ragtopkid

If you aren't flexing it you can get by with the stock brake lines.

Yep, if your close you can also bend the "hard lines" at the caliper up a little to gain a little more. Replace with extended (front a rear) as soon as possible though.

Get new u-bolts for the front and rear (decent 4x4 shop should be able to order sets up for you, or your favorite IH vendor or local spring shop). Good preventive maintenance. Plus its easier to cut the old u-bolts off than mess with rusted/bent originals most of the time. Also plan on new bolts for the springs and shackles. 7/16" diameter, grade 8 or grade 5, your choice and either will be fine. (lots of debate here on the BB about that). Length, I don't know off the top of my head right now but you should be able to measure the old ones.

If the bushings on your "new" springs are good, get a set of bushing to replace the frame-mounted bushings at the same time.

For doing the swap. Front or rear, doesn't matter what end you start with. Basic remove and swap really. You might find cutting the old hardware off they easiest way rather than unbolting, but it really depend on the rig and condition of the old stuff. Lift the truck up and support the FRAME, so you can then let the weight off the springs, removing the tires can help. Cut the u-bolts then jack the axle up so the springs are free. Then unbolt and swap.


Good advice is to when you have everything stripped. Take the time to inspect all the frame and axle mounts for wear/cracks etc. Remember that the lift springs will add additional force on these mounts which could cause a poor condition to get worse. The front shackle mounts are prone to cracking with abuse. And the front fixed can also crack away from the frame, or can push up into the frame cracking it there as well. Reinforcement in this area is a good idea especially if you plan on off-roading it.


Good luck, its should be a weekend job. You might need to get inventive if some parts are stubborn or rusted. But remember, bolts and shackles can be replaced so many times they are not worth fighting.

[cam saure]

The brake hoses can get pretty tight. On the front some people simply remove and reweld the line mount brackets on their frame lower a couple inches. I just installed a 4 inch lift on the daughters 72. With the frame on stands and front tires just off the ground the original hoses were almost stretched tight. On the rear the hose was stretched tight. I installed a longer rubber hose on the rear, I can go out and get the part number tomorrow if you want. I think it was a hose that fit a Ford pickup if I remember right, not too sure about that though, but I do have the part number in the shop.
Also are you putting in new spring bushings? Getting the old bushings out of your frame mounts is probably the hardest part of the job if they are the original rubber type. All the rest is just basic wrenching. You can make, maybe rent or buy a tool for this. Otherwise in a pinch I have rigged up a tool out of 2 sockets and a foot of 7/16 allthread/ready rod. You need 1 (preferably deepwell) 1/2 in drive socket that has an inside diameter large enough for a spring bushing to fit into it, 1 regular 1/2 in drive socket that is same diameter or just slightly less than the spring bushing diameter for the "pusher"(this socket should just be able to slide inside a spring eye without binding). You then put the open end of the deepwell socket so that you can push the bushing into it and the regular socket on the other opposite side. Slide your 7/16 "all thread" through both sockets, put a washer and nut on each end and draw one sides nuts up tight, all the while keeping everything centered exactly. You tighten this up untill the smaller socket pushes the bushing through out the other side into the larger socket. Once the bushing starts to move it will move easier. You deepwell socket may not be deep enough to push the bushing all the way out into it, but should drive easilly out the last little bit. But then again if you already have the proper tool for this , disregard this Cam

[sean30ber]

Cam, I could definitly use the part # for the rear hose. It looks like I can bend the front hard lines up enough untill I get some extended. Also where you got them. NAPA etc. It looks simple enough. Just would like to know where the best place is to put the stands on the frame that would be the safest. I only have to strong enough to to go under the frame so I cant lift the whole truck. My wife would be pissed if I got crushed and would make me sell the Scout.

[Munchies]

My brake lines were a bit stiff at full flex, but I dont think it was ever a problem. ceertainly not for a DD.

[jtownley]

I just put lift springs on my model 80. Here is basically the order that I did it in:

1) Remove rear shocks.
2) Jack up rear end and place jack-stands under the frame.
3) Remove rear wheels.
4) Remove u-bolts holding axle onto springs.
5) Place floor jack under left side of axle.
6) Detach left spring from shackle.
7) Detach left spring from frame mount and remove spring.
8) Attach new spring to frame mount.
9) Attach new spring to shackle.
10) Lower axle onto new spring.
11) Repeat steps 5 - 10 on right spring.
12) Install new u-bolts to attach axle to new springs.
13) Re-install tires.
14) Remove jack-stands.
15) Install new shocks.
16) Repeat steps 1 - 15 on front.

Some side notes.
- You may want to disconnect the drive shafts at the pumpkins. It makes it easier to jockey the axle around while you are fitting it to the springs.
- I did not need to install longer brake lines on mine.
- I did have to install 4 degree shims in the front for caster reasons.
- Other than the jack stands (I only have 2) and the floor jack, I used air tools, BFH, etc.....

Good luck!!!