drum brake dana 30 to disc brakes

[dboy]

My dana 30 front pass. drum just exploded on me last night, so im looking at doing the disk conv.

ive read the faq and am wondering if blazer rotors would work with my blazer calipers? the blazer ones are just cheaper. thanks. and if anyone else has done this conv. if the could give me some better step by step directions. that would be great. thanks guys.

[dboy]

anyone done this or have info on the conversion?

[Mark Ashford]

Well, since Blazer rotors are 6-lug, and your stock Scout is 5-lug.... No.



What method are you trying?? There are about 3 ways to do a Disc conversion on a D30 (actually a couple more than 3 if you get picky). Searching should also result in MANY threads on it and a couple piece-by-piece descriptions or ways to go... a few of them by me.

[rlireland]

Here's a place to start:

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/f...faq_ihcfaq_1.1

Roy

[Paul LaBar]

dboy,

I had a Dana 30 closed front that the PO converted to discs. I decided not to use it and pulled the rotors for use on a SII front axle. It turned out that one of the two rotors was actually from a Ford and wouldn't work with a SII caliper.

Couldn't tell you what model Ford this rotor was from, but here's one of several threads indicating that the Ford parts can be combined with Chevy parts to get a 5 on 5 1/2 lug pattern. I'd guess after re-reading the thread below, that an F-150 rotor might work. I don't know whether they're any cheaper new, but they're probably a lot easier to find used.

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...ht=Ford+rotors

HTH

Paul

[Gary Billings]

So, you have a open knuckle Dana 30 from a Scout II I'm assuming...


Like Mark said, you *can* swap over to Chevy hubs/rotors, but then you need 6 lug wheels.

1. If you want to upgrade to internal hubs w/5x5.5 lug pattern using Chevy this is all you need to do:

Find a pair of small-bearing spindles from a full-size Chevy or FSJ.
Find some stub shafts from a Chevy or FSJ
Get some calipers, brake lines & mounting plates from a Chevy
Get a pair of hubs/rotors/locking hubs from a early 80's Ford
Replace the IH stub shaft with the new stub shafts
Redrill the 6 holes in the caliper mounting plate so it is indexed correctly
Bolt everything together.
Replace your proportioning valve & master cylinder with ones from a disc brake equipped Scout II

More info here: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html

2. Another way to do it...

Find some knuckles/spindles/hubs/rotors from a Scout II Dana 44 front and swap everything out. You can use the Dana 30 stub shaft and locking hubs. Still have to address the prop. valve & m/c.


-Gary

[Mark Ashford]

Originally Posted by Gary Billings

Redrill the 6 holes in the caliper mounting plate so it is indexed correctly

If your using SII D30 knuckles, no need to redrill anything, or atleast not that I remeber....

2. Another way to do it...

Find some knuckles/spindles/hubs/rotors from a Scout II Dana 44 front and swap everything out. You can use the Dana 30 stub shaft and locking hubs. Still have to address the prop. valve & m/c.

You can also combine SII and Chevy/FSJ stuff. This works, *most* of the time... I think there are slight differences in some GM/FSJ caliper brackets as the first set up I did this way required me tweeking the brackets, but others have reported no problems. Just be aware.

Again, searching can bring forth this stuff.

[Gary Billings]

Originally Posted by Mark Ashford

If your using SII D30 knuckles, no need to redrill anything, or atleast not that I remeber....

Yeah, you really don't *need* to do it. It'll bolt up just fine. The reason I did it was to get the caliper to sit in the right spot. For example, say you're looking at the pass. side: The Chevy caliper bracket & knuckle holes are in the 12, 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 o'clock positions. The Dana 30 knuckle holes are in the 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, and 11 o'clock positions. If you mount up the caliper bracket without re-indexing the holes, the caliper will be at the 9 or the 11 o'clock position instead of the normal 10 o'clock position. Probably not the biggest deal, but I'm a perfectionist If you do redrill the bracket, you'll also have to clearance the knuckle a little bit for the caliper to fit without rubbing, otherwise run it at the 11 o'clock position and it should be fine.

Originally Posted by Mark Ashford

I think there are slight differences in some GM/FSJ caliper brackets as the first set up I did this way required me tweeking the brackets, but others have reported no problems. Just be aware.

I've had good luck with the brackets that have the sheet metal dust-guard welded on it rather than the full circle thick ones.

Originally Posted by Mark Ashford

Again, searching can bring forth this stuff.

Amen, lots of info here and on Pirate as well about this.

-Gary

[dboy]

my dana 30 is a closed knuckle. does that change anything? and does anyone have any pics?

[Mark Ashford]

Originally Posted by dboy

my dana 30 is a closed knuckle. does that change anything? and does anyone have any pics?

Yes, it changes everything, all the above is for an open knuckle SII D30.


I *have* seen a disc ocnversion on a closed knuckle D27 (very simular), and I have been told it was easy btu I don't know the parts list.


Get a hold of "Binderbound" on the Pirate list... I think he is here too, just not as often. Then post back.