Here's that quick release anti sway bar

[Brian Lee]

Howdy! Got an idea based on what you had. What about taking the stock spring steel plate, cutting it down a bit so its a tad shorter, THEN welding your tube on one end with the pin hole in it. sooo... you get 4" of tube welded to the spring steel plate, then weld the mating piece of tube to the one shackle on that side. an idea to get that necesary flex others mention, and still have that selectable ability, AND be an affordable backyard project.
Brian Sparkeee24

[binderbird]

I've been looking at the plate. I'm not so sure it was intended to flex much at all. The plate might be just an attractive way of tying the two sides together. I put one end into my big vise and put my 48" pipe wrench with a 5 foot cheater pipe on the end and put my fat ***** 230 lbs and Michaels skinney butt into it and the plate didn't flex more than 1/8" maybe a 1/4. It's TOUGH! The table started flipping over with an engine on it before the plate flexed. I think they used that spring steel so there would be NO flex. Think about it,,, any other iron this thick would easely flex and not return to shape. This spring steel doesn't flex at all and stays in shape.
I really don't think it will be tearing up the iron,, I see the bushings going out first. When that happens it will just give me an excuse to change them out too. I think the advantages outweigh the disadvantages.
Remember,, pin is in is for light street use. Very little wear and tear. Pull the pin for off road use and releaving all tention. Also need to remember. the overall weight of the Binderbird is only 4400 lbs. Most of that weight is that fantastic International Iron I (we are) am so proud of.
By the way,,, What do scout IIs, Travellers and the rest weigh out at?

[binderbird]

Brian Lee wisely offered; Howdy! Got an idea based on what you had. What about taking the stock spring steel plate, cutting it down a bit so its a tad shorter, THEN welding your tube on one end with the pin hole in it. sooo... you get 4" of tube welded to the spring steel plate, then weld the mating piece of tube to the one shackle on that side. an idea to get that necesary flex others mention, and still have that selectable ability, AND be an affordable backyard project.

Now that man is thinking!!! It's not too late for me to do that. I have several plates to experiment with. I will do that as soon as I have time. I have to change gears tomarrow. I need to be carefull of the heat of cutting and welding on that spring steel. I have a Collage Professor at my disposel that will advise and will treat the parts if necessary.

[cornfedih]

'bird,
if you were able to bend that piece of steel at all i would be very surprised. you have to remember those springs coupled with the chunk of iron between the framerails will put FAR more pressure on the antisway bar than you could with a 14' cheater bar, let alone a 5' cheater bar. the size of the factory plate is directly proportional to the amount of torsion needed to keep the sway at bay. even if you successfully shorten the sway bar you will significantly increase the amount of pressure required to make it offer the proper resistance and totally change its characteristics.

generally, when ive seen people use mild steel in place of spring steel, it bends and stays bent....only until it breaks.

not saying its a bad idea, but it might require a bit more thought than originally intended. a torsion bar from a 2wd vehicle (or similar) might just be the ticket, but would be hard to make removable.

i say you're on the right track, but might be in the wrong lane

you might be able to take the original sway bar to a spring shop and have them test the amount of pressure it takes to move it a given amount...then compare that to something in round stock that might suit your needs. keep us posted, im interested to see what you find out.

[binderbird]

I really really really really really like it the way it is. I'll leave it till something makes me change it. As I said before,,, it works as designed,,, perfect.

[Philabuster]

Originally Posted by binderbird

I really really really really really like it the way it is. I'll leave it till something makes me change it. As I said before,,, it works as designed,,, perfect.

Run what makes you happy (and be safe). Keep us posted on your testing.

[Will Marsh]

Originally Posted by binderbird

I've been looking at the plate. I'm not so sure it was intended to flex much at all. The plate might be just an attractive way of tying the two sides together. I put one end into my big vise and put my 48" pipe wrench with a 5 foot cheater pipe on the end and put my fat ***** 230 lbs and Michaels skinney butt into it and the plate didn't flex more than 1/8" maybe a 1/4. It's TOUGH! The table started flipping over with an engine on it before the plate flexed. I think they used that spring steel so there would be NO flex. Think about it,,, any other iron this thick would easely flex and not return to shape. This spring steel doesn't flex at all and stays in shape.
I really don't think it will be tearing up the iron,, I see the bushings going out first. When that happens it will just give me an excuse to change them out too. I think the advantages outweigh the disadvantages.
Remember,, pin is in is for light street use. Very little wear and tear. Pull the pin for off road use and releaving all tention. Also need to remember. the overall weight of the Binderbird is only 4400 lbs. Most of that weight is that fantastic International Iron I (we are) am so proud of.
By the way,,, What do scout IIs, Travellers and the rest weigh out at?

4400 is about typical for a lightly loaded SII with the hardtop. JR stripped out with the 392 and soft top was just a touch under 4000. I've not weighed Grey since the tilt front end and Chevy trans/t-case went in, but I'd guess it's in the 3700 range.

Looking forward to RMIHR and getting back into the Puller mode. Need to do some tuning on Grey and get the cage in for some real fun.

Be interesting to see if there's another stock T'all willing to hook up in 2wd too. I'd like to see how Blue's FI compares. Too bad I can't take Beast too.

[scoutman800]

sounds like you go it nailed binder, blackdog i will post results of the addco bar once it's on and i get some miles on it. my suspension doesn't flex much anyway, so i don't care about ramp travel. if it's a big improvement i might do the rear too. guess i can always do the swaybar disconnects on em if i need to, but probably won't with my set up.

[Bread]

Binderbird,

Just wondering how that sway bar has been treating you and your suspension. Can we get an update?

I made a bar today out of some pipe I had laying around the shop, but I didn't notice much of any difference on the way home from work. I'm trying to come up with a good front bar to match my rear bar for better street handling. I plan to do a lot of skiing this winter so I'd like to dial in some more predictable handling.

[ktsno1]

Bird, thats pretty cool. should install a grease fitting on it, or did u? what exactly does the bar do when the pin is pulled? rotate, pull apart? and is wat if u cut one of pipes back alil bit (inches) so the pipes are able to move toward each other instead of just away from each other. just a thought.

Bread, got pics? u say u have a bar in the back? notice any difference w/ it in? whats i look like?

all, anyone else running a swaybar in the back too?

i like the thought about using a stock sway bar, cutting it in half and making a connnector for the two to be pinned back togeather.