Another axle cut and turn question....

[grannygear]

All the pics/articles i have seen on a cut and turn show the axle clean all the way down to the 'C's...no steering knuckles, ball joints, etc.

I seem to have no luck with removing the knuckle so far, but I have not gotten the special tool for it...if it is even needed. Seemed like a big hammer would do it, but maybe not.

Wondering why I cannot leave the stuff attached as long as I can make the measurements, grind and pound it around to where I need it, etc. Would the heat from welding affect the ball joint? Does not seem it would, it is pretty far away from the weld joint.

Before I go out of my way to remove them...any thoughts besides, "just do it like everyone else, you slacker!"

[BamaScout]

Originally Posted by grannygear

All the pics/articles i have seen on a cut and turn show the axle clean all the way down to the 'C's...no steering knuckles, ball joints, etc.

I seem to have no luck with removing the knuckle so far, but I have not gotten the special tool for it...if it is even needed. Seemed like a big hammer would do it, but maybe not.

Wondering why I cannot leave the stuff attached as long as I can make the measurements, grind and pound it around to where I need it, etc. Would the heat from welding affect the ball joint? Does not seem it would, it is pretty far away from the weld joint.

Before I go out of my way to remove them...any thoughts besides, "just do it like everyone else, you slacker!"

I can appreciate your frustration You have to grind into the knuckle a bit to get past the penetration of the weld. Grind a little and whack the hell out of it. I used a five pound sledge. Eventually you will see a line form where you have gotten past the weld.

I wouldn't know about the ball joint as my axles have not been rewelded yet because I've decided to go with dana 60's in the middle of the project.
I think that most folks go ahead and replace the ball joints while they are easy to get at but, you can always weld first and see what happens.

Good luck with the c's, I know it's a pain in the arse.

[BamaScout]

I forgot to mention if you have a portaban use it.

[Erik VanRenselaar]

A clarification on the parts terminology: the (steering) knuckle is the outboard large moving part that the spindle/brake parts/tie rod attaches to and is attached to the axle housing via the ball joints.
The fixed part that is welded on the end of the axle tubes is usually referred to as the *end yoke*.

That said, I wouldn't know how one could accurately re-position the end yokes (cut-and-turn) without removing ALL of the other outboard parts. The flat milled surfaces on the top aspect of the end yokes provide a reference point for caster angle.
It will also enable you to install nice new ball joints on the freshly modified axle.

[669 sprink]

portaban....... are you talking cut through the weld , knock the yokes off then gring the old weld off to clean things up?

[BamaScout]

Originally Posted by 669 sprink

portaban....... are you talking cut through the weld , knock the yokes off then gring the old weld off to clean things up?

Yes... the weld is about the thickness of the blade. I worked the portaban around the weld with the blade flush to the C. I turned the portaban flush to the axle then and cut the rest of the weld off of the axle. This left very little grinding to be done. Do not go too far into the axle when you are cutting the weld around the C. It really did make the cut and turn pretty quick once I got the portaban.

[669 sprink]

sounds like a good idea. I will have to bring one home from work and try it out next weekend. Did you knock the yokes off to do the clean up or did the blade take out enough material that the grinding was mimamal?

[BamaScout]

Originally Posted by 669 sprink

sounds like a good idea. I will have to bring one home from work and try it out next weekend. Did you knock the yokes off to do the clean up or did the blade take out enough material that the grinding was mimamal?

You will be amazed at how much the blade takes off. I still had to grind into the C some to get past the weld penetration before I beat the C off. The portaban just cuts the grinding time alot. I'm sure you work with portabans and know to use cutting oil and all that.

[grannygear]

Originally Posted by Erik VanRenselaar

A clarification on the parts terminology: the (steering) knuckle is the outboard large moving part that the spindle/brake parts/tie rod attaches to and is attached to the axle housing via the ball joints.
The fixed part that is welded on the end of the axle tubes is usually referred to as the *end yoke*.

That said, I wouldn't know how one could accurately re-position the end yokes (cut-and-turn) without removing ALL of the other outboard parts. The flat milled surfaces on the top aspect of the end yokes provide a reference point for caster angle.
It will also enable you to install nice new ball joints on the freshly modified axle.

Yes, terminology correct.

Actually, the correct angle measurement is possible, i think. Look at it this way. Even if there was no room to get to flat sections of C (but there is, actually) without the steering knuckles removed, all you need is a reference point to measure before the turn, and then after to bring it back to the measurement, yes?

So, what is the trick to getting the knuckles off? Hmm...I will search a bit on that subject.

[Joe D.]

I'm pretty sure the reason to remove the knuckles is to have room to get a good swing at it. These won't be firm taps, but smack it like you hate it impacts. Not only will you be breaking a certain amount of weld, but you'll be turning a yoke that is machined to fit very tightly onto the tube. Pretend you're the governator and whack away.

I never did ball joints in the scout axle, in my chevy axle there is a loosener in the upper ball joint taper, takes a funky pronged socket. Besides that, it takes lots of pressure, top and bottom. Pickle forks might work for you. Tapping the side of the taper with a hammer can help it release.