Turn signal problems

[ejstadler]

Been having this problem with my turn signals on my 1970 800:

Sometimes when I turn either to the left or to the right, the turn signal cam does not come back to a proper neutral position. The cam will cancel the turn signal but I will only have one brake light after that (left or right depending on which way I was turning). I can move the turn signal arm to the middle and I get both brake lights again.’

Has anyone else had this problem? I’ve seen replacement cams available, will that fix my problem?

Is there a better fix out there for this like doing some re-wiring and just using the turn signal switch for an on-off mechanism instead of running the brake signal up through it as well?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ed

[Rob Peterson]

Could be the cam.

I had a similar problem. There was slop at the point where the lever attached to the switch plate, so the lever pivoted a bit without actually turning the plate. It appeared that the lever was moving in its proper range but in actuality the plate did not engage (the switch) fully in both directions, or release to 'neutral' properly. You may want to check that, too.

I tried a couple fixes for this that worked temporarily, but I got sick of pulling the steering wheel and messing around. Final and best solution was just to replace the switch.

[Rob Peterson]

I forgot to mention that your brake signal circuit DOES need to be incorporated with your turn signal for all to work properly - unless you're adding another set of independent brake lights.

[Marc]

I tried fixing the switch in my '71 800 for the same problem you decide, and put in a spare switch I had, but couldn't make them work reliably. I had a spare column out of a '71 chevy C-30 with a good switch, and i grafted the "neck" of the GM column to the rest of the IH column. It seems to be more robust, and I have a few spares.

Here is a picture of the GM neck. THe steering shaft itself is still the IH one, I didn't want to get into cutting and welding it for safety issues.

[rlireland]

Originally Posted by Marc

I tried fixing the switch in my '71 800 for the same problem you decide, and put in a spare switch I had, but couldn't make them work reliably. I had a spare column out of a '71 chevy C-30 with a good switch, and i grafted the "neck" of the GM column to the rest of the IH column. It seems to be more robust, and I have a few spares.

Here is a picture of the GM neck. THe steering shaft itself is still the IH one, I didn't want to get into cutting and welding it for safety issues.

Hey Marc,

I'd be interested in some more details on your C-30 column graft. Does it just bolt on to the end of the IH shaft/column?
You can PM me if you like.

Roy

[Jayrodoh]

I made the attached upgrade to my scout 80 when doing the wiring. It uses the original switch, just use the common input to the original switch from the blinker and the two wires that go out to the lights. The relays insure that your brake lights will work when the blinker stops. Sorry for the crude drawing, did it in paint. The third connection on the flasher goes to your blinker indicator.

Scout 80 Diag

[ejstadler]

Thanks for the info.

The relay mod is the type of thing I was looking for.

Thanks again

Ed

[Dick S. Moore]

Originally Posted by Jayrodoh

I made the attached upgrade to my scout 80 when doing the wiring. It uses the original switch, just use the common input to the original switch from the blinker and the two wires that go out to the lights. The relays insure that your brake lights will work when the blinker stops. Sorry for the crude drawing, did it in paint. The third connection on the flasher goes to your blinker indicator.

Scout 80 Diag

I`ve been reading, and drawing, control schematics for over 40 years and I`ve seen lots worse ones drawn by engineers. That paint is a bich to draw in. Wouldn`t (I) you love to have a CAD program for that kind of stuff. If I wasn`t retired I`d have one.

Good Job

[Marc]

Originally Posted by rlireland

Hey Marc,

I'd be interested in some more details on your C-30 column graft. Does it just bolt on to the end of the IH shaft/column?
You can PM me if you like.

Roy

I had to weld it. I cut the IH column where it goes inside the dash, and welded the appropriate length of C-30 column to it. I did have to weld the inner tube of the C-30 column to the outer tube though, as the cup that fits below the switch cup is held in tightly by that inner tube. I had to trim a little bit from the backside of the steering wheel to clear the cup, and not rub, but it's not a big deal - I plan on getting a smaller aftermarket wheel at some point. There was another piece from the GM column I used - it was a plastic part with the brass horn contact ring that also keeps pressure on the bearing in the column. Just trim that till it fits well, and solder a wire to it for your horn. I did leave the inner steering shaft intact...I wasn't crazy about cutting and welding a part that was vital to my steering.

I have a spare or two of the GM switches particular to the 68-72 columns, and they are much more robust looking than the IHC part IMO. The wiring was the easiest part.

I really wish I had have taken pictures - but it was much easier to do than explain. It was kind of a hack, but it turned out well...any more questions just ask away...