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#11
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#12
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Manual.
The guys that run auto's on purpose don't have the skills required to operate a manual, or they're lazy!
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ASE mastercertified engine machinist, gas and diesel Brake and alignment specialist Agriculture/industrial tractor tech. 68 Rambler American 72 1210 4x4 77 ScoutII 88 Olds Cutlas Calais Quad4 5spd 97 JEEP TJ 99 Yamaha YFS 200 (248) Carlos Mencia said it! don't be a "DEE DEE DEE"! |
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#13
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It's misspelled! Should be spelled losing. Maybe spell check now censors misspelled words!
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90% of all stats are made up. |
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#14
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Quote:
The easy way to figure it out is to ask yourself this question. What is easier to get off the trail and back home if problems occur?
__________________
64 IH 1Ton,345,T34,T18,Np202,40"MTRs,crawl ratios,61:1,113:1,207:1,375:1,D70 front with ARB & 35 spline chromolly axles,RA15 rear with Detroit Locker,York on board air,custom 200 amp welder. Iraq veteran 04 |
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#15
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I have competed in rock crawling and everyone runs automatics. For serious crawling an automatic is the only choice, and it's why everyone one runs one. They may not show rock crawling on television, but there are still plenty of people building rigs for it, and vast majority of them are running a slush box, and isn't because they are uncoordinated or lazy. It's because they want to win.
That being said, for mild off road wheeling, and even mild crawling, which ever you prefer is going to suit you best. And regardless of what you choose experience is KING. If you don't get out an practice or take it off road much, regardless of which you choose getting into a tight sticky situation is going to be uncomfortable. In the rig I am working on currently I'll be wheeling a manual and will have the manual until I am able to built the 727 I want to replace it. However says you need 3 legs or a hand throttle for crawling with a manual is right, that and a ton of experience.
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IHSTO Club President, please feel free to contact me with questions and comments. CoD - Prodigal Son |
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#16
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For proof positive of just how cut and dry this debate is - http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/showt...utos-for-wimps
Six years, and 32 pages worth of back and forth "my transmission can beat up your transmission" bickering. Arguments can be made both for and against each type. I can set up an auto to have just as much engine braking as a manual, and have the ability to push/pull start a rig with a bad starter. Set up the trans with the proper converter, and gears in the axles, and there is ZERO need to stand on the brakes while giving it gas to inch over an obstacle. "manuals will still get you home when there is a problem" Really? What happens when you burn a clutch, blow a master and/or slave cylinder on a trail (or break a clutch cable/rod)? Bend/break a shift fork, or clutch fork? Break the tailhousing, output shaft (yes, I've seen both done)? Send a rock into the trans case, breaking it? If you think a modern manual trans is going to survive long without fluid, you're delusional. You're not going to be able to drive it home (same argument as those who claim rear disc brakes negate the need for concern about axle shaft breakage, as the brake caliper is supposedly going to hold it all together and allow you drive off the trail and back home...yeah..sure). That said, manuals typically are cheaper, lighter, smaller, easier to package in small vehicles, there's little concern about over-heating the lube (yes, it still is possible, just highly unlikely), may be easier for some to control descents, and may give you the impression that you're better than most others because you can wheel a manual :P
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'64 Scout 80 - rock crawler, LT1/TH400/D300, Dana 60 front/Dana 70 rear '96 Jeep Grand Cherokee - expedition rig |
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#17
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I've been offroading for 30+ years. Everything from forest roads, to stuff that people who are with me say "you're crazy, let me out first"
You can tune an auto to be performance wise just like a manual for compression braking. As Urbex said, from a performance standpoint, there is really no difference if you setup the tranny right. Now that being said, I have had rigs that have had both manuals and autos. I prefer autos, as it's much easier on my knees/legs which are in bad shape due to an aviation accident I was involved in during my time in the Navy and it's one less thing to have to worry about when your concentrating on your line, and what your rig is doing at any given moment.
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Thanks, and have a great day... Rich 1979 Traveller 392/727/D20 Dana60/14B 1975 Travelall 150 2wd, 392/727 1974 200 4wd Dually 392/T19 |
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#18
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Quote:
It is also easier to drink a beer and keep it from spilling
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President Gulf Coast Binders 75 SII 304 4 speed 65 80 152 3 speed 77 SII 345 Automatic 75 SII NO engine or trans 74 3/4 ton Wagonmaster 392IC 4 speed 4x4 74 SII 196 4 speed 76 SII 196 4 speed 80 SII turbo diesel 4 speed |
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#19
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They both have their advantages and disadvantages. But with a Transgo TF2 or TF3 kit. I narrows the gap.
I just spent big $$ having my 727 rebuilt. And I had the TF2 kit installed. So far I am happy with it. But if I had the time and $$ I would love to have a NV4500. But I am also afraid that my 3.09 gears might be a little tall for an OD.
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Mark Fredrick Madisonville Ky 1978 Terra 345 V8. Edelbrock 1406 carb, MSD,Pertronix, 392 4V Intake.![]() 1974 Scout II "Tiger" Soft Top 4X2 (My Bride's Scout) |
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#20
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You couldn't set my rig up with an automatic for free and pay me to drive it. It's not worth the hassle. Automatics are too finnicky,overheating,leaking,weak aluminum cases,too long,losing power through converter,no controlled descents,too much relying on the brakes,coolers put heat into the engine.
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64 IH 1Ton,345,T34,T18,Np202,40"MTRs,crawl ratios,61:1,113:1,207:1,375:1,D70 front with ARB & 35 spline chromolly axles,RA15 rear with Detroit Locker,York on board air,custom 200 amp welder. Iraq veteran 04 |
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| 4 speed , 727 , automatic , brake , choice , colorado , compression , engine , find , gears , group , idle , led , low , manual , manuals , power , question , racing , rock crawling , scout , throttle , tires , tranny , transmission |
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