Is there a definative answer for rust abatement?

[IH64Scout]

Originally Posted by Super Scout

After you get done painting it with what ever paint/primer/bedliner you choose. Spray this underneath, and in all the tight places atleast once a year. Its a little pricey but it will NOT RUST. I use it on my plow scout in western pa, and this stuff laughs at salt and rust.

what is this, like a oil/wax? Where did you get it?

[oldpablo]

I have no actual exsperisve with this but I have been thinking about rust abatement on my '78 traveller for a while now while it has sat in the garage with cut outs made for rocker and quarter panel patches. My biggest brain teaser has been planning how to apply rust proof/abatement materials to enclosed areas after welding is done. I think a product that can be sprayed through a long tube and can be applied generously would be the best. First I was thinking to spray phosphoric acid type converter in area and then sop in por15 or zero rust paint with a sponge or something. Since I found these product to cure to fast and most likely make a colossal mess no to mention toxic fumes. A friend told my about some thing called Rust Doctor that is a rust converter and can be a topcoat or primer that is water clean up and can be sprayed. I found online a similar product for marine use called Cerroseal that is a lot cheaper. Eastwood.com has 24" long hoses with a nozzle on the end that can spray paints and sealers in to enclosed areas if access holes are drilled. Eastwood.com also sells a wax/oil product just for this purpose. I think a converter would be better for my situation that a wax incase there is some rust already started. Since I have done none of these things, any feed back on how to treat enclosed areas would be great. I hope my ideas can help.

[supermerle]

Eastwood has a can of stuff that has a long tube that goes into "a" pillar and coats the rust? It looked good to me and looked like its what you are looking for. the tube has a special nozzle for inside tube and chasiss.

[Jeff Jamison]

Jay
You mentioned the neutralize the acid twice,please explain with what,as I would like to know,I always just used water
Jeff

[Carl Wiese]

Originally Posted by Jeff Jamison

Jay
You mentioned the neutralize the acid twice,please explain with what,as I would like to know,I always just used water
Jeff

Phosphoric acid is water soluble so washing the area will remove any acid not used in stopping the rust. The water won't neutralize it but will remove it from your work area safely. Washing it is all you need to do. If you want to neutralize it you could add a base to do that. Ammonia would work (windex) or baking soda.

[binderbound]

I'm thinking about drilling some small holes under the trim panel,door sill for applying rocker coating. But still covered by the door sill when installed. Maybe a couple half inch holes just for ease of spraying whatever.

I was curious though...if I go to all the trouble of making the rig super nice and has a decent paint job, wont filling the inner voids with ATF or whatever seep out and ruin my fancy pants paint?

[ollie]

Your truck looks solid, but don't forget halting rust and neutralizing it may leave you with a weakened, thinner area than when it was steel. I generally try to get back to shiny silver meets flaky rust in these areas where possible and then make a decision to either wire wheel all the loose stuff off and por 15 it (I don't use acid because it will keep on eating and may screw up your paint job later from inside), or cut it out.

Sometimes using a cutoff wheel and putting in fresh metal is the answer for strength. I either weld or use one of the modern body glues which won't heat distort the metal, which there's a possibility of when welding. When tracking the rust follow Mr Gravity's path down, the water will seep into corners that may not be obvious. Here Mr Gravity meets Mr Murphy and his law of inconvenience, but it's well worth cutting out the horizontal surfaces (bases of doors etc) and replacing the metal. The added advantage is you can then see and spray por 15 or whatever up into the area you expose.

I've done por 15 fabric and putty on non structural areas, like on my 50's Metro rear doors (see pictures here)

I took that putty back to body shape as a final step and it's now indistinguishable from the original shape, but it's not load bearing except for that door latch area which I beefed up with welds first on the remaining good metal

[oldpablo]

I've only used Fluid Film for nuts bolts and such. Looked it up and they sell it by the gallon with spray guns, nozzles, exstention tubes and even plugs for drilled access holes. This would solve the leaking out problem that ATF or motor oil would have. Just wonder if this stuff alone would be good enough or if a rust convertor should be used first. Has anyone used Rust Doctor or Corroseal? I think rocker panels can be sprayed on the inside from each end in the wheel wells on the scout. They are basically a tube that gets plugged with mud.

[Super Scout]

Fluid Film is lanolin based, it will not evaporate, it never drys. If you spray it on metal, and wipe a section off, it will weep onto the section that was wiped off. It will not hurt paint, or stain. It will not attract dirt. Its pretty great stuff, if you spray your rigs watch the exhaust, it smells like a dead goat when it burns off. It has been a well known secret for snowplow guys. I spray my entire Plow Scout down with it, works great.

[oldpablo]

Does the Fluid Film seem to stop existing rust from spreading if it is not to severe? The price at 50$ a gallon is pretty good anf the wand with hose attachment would probaly fish just about anywhere with a few holes drilled.