My '62 Scout 80 Project

[radar232]

All American 1962 International Harvester Scout 80 All Wheel Drive, VIN# FC54347A
152cid L4, Holley 1904
T90 3 Speed Transmission
D18 2 Stick Transfer Case
D27 FA @ 4.27, Drum Brakes
D44 Tapered RA @ 4.27, Drum Brakes (Centered Differential)
Goodyear MTR with Kevlar, 31x10.5 r15's

Preface

I've been meaning to start a build thread for awhile now but got side tracked by Kb'sforme's thread, Project: Freedom Scout, which is covering aspects of my build that Jared has set forth to complete while I am in Afghanistan. Because my Scout 80 is my Daily Driver and now my only vehicle, we took full advantage of my being away from home in order to negate the extended periods of down time required for such aggressive modifications. Since, my Scout will probably always be a work in progress, it seems fitting that I should start my own thread. The first several posts will be my attempt to document all the work I have done leading up to the Freedom Project. ALL of which Kb has DESTROYED! (Note: I am going to stay away from all the cute little smileys. "") If you're tracking the Freedom Project, then you already know I am proud to have Jared working on my truck. No regrets at all!

Prefaced Preface

A month after returning from my last tour in Iraq, I bought my first and only Scout, a stock 1962 Scout 80 All Wheel Drive, through an Ebay Auction in May 2010 for $8300. Top dollar for a S80 I know. I got burned. It took me over a month to arrange shipping of the vehicle from St. George Utah to my Uncle's house in East Bernard Texas, just Southwest of the greater Houston area. When I finally took delivery I was less than pleased with it's overall condition. The pictures posted to the auction where several years old and showed what looked to be a nice example of a well maintained original in good overall condition. Apparently the seller posted pictures of the Scout after a mild restoration that were several years old and conveniently failed to mention that or the diminished condition of the paint and body in it's current state. After enduring over a months worth of shipping headaches and being that the Scout had been paid for over 30 days prior to delivery, I chalked it up to a lesson learned. Never again will I purchase a vehicle without seeing it in person.
For the most part, the old Scout wasn't that bad but it definitely wasn't worth the price I paid. There were few aspects of the vehicle's condition that met my expectations. The driver side door had approximately an 8" crack in the paint, all the way down to the original red and a nice big shallow dent in the rear passenger side end cap. No body bushings to speak of, the doors didn't sit flush with the A pillar or maybe the B pillar, (Which ever is opposite of the hinges) and several paint chips in the full-size top, metal deep and rusting. Not to mention, absolutely everything leaked and the PO didn't service a thing.

The frame rails look pretty good inside and out but the under carriage is sorta rough. Not much rust underneath, which is a plus but the spray liner is very much cracked and peeling away in most places. Aside from these negative aspects, I thoroughly enjoyed cruising the 90 mile stretch of winding Texas Farm Roads with my dog Reggie to our new home in Conroe. At least until my clutch slave cylinder kicked the bucket. Luckily, I was only about 5 miles from the house.
Not knowing any better, the next day I took my Scout to a local transmission shop to figure out what was wrong. Of course they wanted to pull the T90 before diagnosing the hydraulics first. I said no and that's the day I discovered BinderBulletin.org and IH Tech forums. Binder Planet, hands down, THE best tool in my box! The next day I drove my Jap-yota to the trans shop, diagnosed the leaky slave and ordered a new one from Mark Drake @ ScoutMADness.com out of Lubbock, watched the video scoutparts.com put together on S80 slave cylinder installation (THE only time they've actually helped me) and Like the Grinch that Stole Christmas, my IH heart grew 5 times. A few days later, in the trans shop parking lot, I replaced the slave myself and drove off victoriously. "On the Road Again."
After that it was basic service and repair, fluids and filters, odds and ends. While gaining general familiarization of S80 components.
I also replaced all 4 wheel cylinders since most were leaking and they where all different brands. Each alomite was a different size; a real PITA when bleeding brake lines.

Before I continue further, here are the pics that suckered me into spending $8,300...

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[radar232]

From this point forward, I will do my best to document source and P/Ns

NOTE: I do my best to find parts and tools that are made in the US, so P/Ns provided may not always be the cheapest but in my opinion they are the very best.

Rear Axle Pinion Seal Replacement

Bolstered by the success of my repairs thus far, I decided to try my hand at replacing the leaky outer pinion seal in my tapered D44 RA. Not a complex operation if you know the steps but I was a deeper shade of green at the time.

NAPA, P/N NOS 15788
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...788_0094131777

Unfortunately, I have no pictures of this repair. I did okay. Stopped the leak and that's the point. At the time I didn't have a bearing/seal puller or slide hammer so I VERY carefully cut the metal in the old seal almost in two with a chisel, just enough to pry it out easy. Luckily I didn't nick the seat using a stupid chisel. The other day, scanning the knowledge base I noticed a technique posted by Gary Billings (linked below) using a sheet metal screw and claw hammer to remove old seals. Looks easy enough and much safer then what I did. But like I said it worked. Everything else was pretty much the same as Gary's, even the P/N. Well, except I slathered a little more RTV on mine just to make sure it seals. Boy did it look good! Never occurred to take pictures. Again, awful proud of myself for accomplishing such a simple repair...

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...+A+Pinion+Seal

[Ronmc1954]

Nice looking 80, sounds like you have go some nice upgrades planned. A big plus is it's on the road :-)

Also, thanks for your service. You make us proud, as do all service men and veterans.

Ron

[radar232]

Spin Oil Filter Adapter Installation
Replacing the stock canister and cartridge filter assembly.

After discovering IH based forums like Binder Planet and reading a bunch of S80 build threads, I thought it would be a good idea to drop my old skool oil filter canister assembly. I bought a used adapter from scoutMADness along with a few gaskets. I figured this would be a super easy upgrade from stock equipment. Truthfully, it really is but mine gave me hell. Mainly due to a very basic detail I over looked, as I failed to insure the adapter base was flat before installation. Rookie mistake indeed. At first everything seemed leak free but eventually developed a substantial drip. That is when it occurred to me to remove the base plate mounted between canister housing assembly and the block. I guess I hoped that would magically fix the leak.


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Same results, at first, all was well but quickly began to leak after a short drive to school. As you can see in the following picture, I believed my oil pan was preventing the adapter from fully seating against the block.


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So I proceeded with doing things the hard way. Bought more gaskets and some permatex high-tack sealer spray. Yeah, still leaked and worse than ever. I was cruising down the road and lost all oil pressure! I freaked out and pulled over immediately. Luckily, I ended up at Hooters! So I went inside, ordered a cold beer and called Jared. I think this was the first time he rescued me. Although, I was rather comfortable having a beer at Hooters...

An hour or two later, he showed up with a trailer. We loaded up the Scout and went to his house. On the way there he asked me if I checked the adapter base and proceeded to explain how to sand it flat with a sharpie, medium grit paper and a piece of glass. Needless to say, I felt dumb. An hour later, I had everything flat and leak free. I'll never know how long it would have taken me to figure that out on my own. It's nice having a friend willing to help out. I continue to learn a lot from guys like him. Thanks again Jared!

[supermerle]

It would have been easy to get fooled by those pictures, but I feel your pain on what you found after you received the scout. You keep safe and it looks like KB is got your back on what he's doing!

[jmait769]

Good looking Scout by those pictures and it is too bad they miss represented it on EB like that but you guys are making it into an even better Scout! Looking forward to the updates!

Jay

[radar232]

D44 RA Pinion Seal Replacement

From this point forward, I will do my best to include source and part numbers for the products I use throughout my build.
(Note: I do my best to find tools and parts that are made in America and in some cases are a bit more expensive.)

Bolsterd by the successful (or eventually successful) outcomes of my maintenance and repairs thus far, I decided to replace the leaky outer pinion seal in my D44 RA. A fairly straight forward process but I was a deeper shade of green at the time and the last thing I wanted to do was make things worse. I never really expected to post anything about my pinion seal replacement so I unfortunately don't have any pictures for this one but Gary Billings has an awesome write-up on this in the Knowledge Base (Linked Below) with plenty of pictures.

Anyway, I dropped the drive shaft and removed the yoke with relative es. Since I didn't have a bearing/seal puller yet, I decided to use a hammer and chisel to carefully split the old seal in order to pry it out with a flat head. It worked well but is obviously NOT the best method. This was before I found Gary's write-up. He has a nice technique, using nothing more than a sheet metal screw and claw hammer to pull the seal. He even used the exact same pinion seal I did. Napa P/N 15788 Luckily, with my stupid chisel method I didn't nick the seal seat but I took my time and was extremely careful. After getting the old seal out, I cleaned the seat with a lint free rag and a little acetone.

Ready to install my new pinion seal, I slathered the outer flange with RTV and smoothed it out with my fingers. Not as precise as Gary's conservative application of RTV but hey, it worked. I lined the new seal up to the housing and lightly tapped it in with a hammer and small block of wood then wiped away the excess RTV. I replaced the yoke, put an impact on the pinion nut to make sure the yoke was nice and tight. Installed the drive shaft, then kicked back to enjoy a celebratory beer as I admired my leak free repair. It looked great and was on par with any professional installation but I guess that's not saying much these days...

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...+A+Pinion+Seal

Since I didn't have any pictures for this post I figured I'd post one of my dog Reggie.


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Believe it or not, this is a Scout related photo. Notice the door frame? That was his way of telling me not to leave him behind while I'm outside wrenching.

[radar232]

Exhausted Manifold
Stan's Header conversion with all new exhaust.

At this point, I'd say I probably had my Scout for about 3 months. I just drove it when I felt like it since I still had my yota. Never really pushed it to hard, just to school and back or puttin around town while getting used to driving a 50 year old truck and waiting for something to break or fall off. Sure enough, backing into a parking spot one day, my cast iron exhaust manifold broke at the flange.

I forgot to mention in my opening post that my front passenger side tire also rubbed the exhaust pipe coming down from the manifold on right hand turns. Now I'm kicking myself for not taking pictures of that either. The rubbing wasn't just caused by running 31x10.5's. It was because who ever ran the exhaust didn't take pride in their work. It was a joke, especially the welding. The muffler was, and still is, mounted under the passenger side below the door. So there was basically one 90* bend in the pipe at the outside of the frame rail just below the exhaust manifold and a straight shot to the muffler. Plenty of exhaust in the way of the knobby tires so eventually the cast manifold gave out. A narly sound indeed.

So another call to Mark at ScoutMADness and I had a Stan's Header, P/N 600, on the way. (Linked Below) Nothing flashy, just a bare metal header. At hind site, I should have gotten a chromed set, not sure why I didn't... I've read all the different opinions on headers for stock IH SV's and didn't expect any gains but it sure does sound great. Did I need a header for a stock 152? No. Did I want a header for my 152? Well hell yeah!

Obviously I installed the header myself. Fired that dude up and let all my neighbors know I was on the way to the muffler shop down the road. $190 and about an hour later I had all new exhaust with 2.5" pipes and a Flowmaster. It's no SV but the little 152 has character and a tone an IH addict can appreciate.

http://www.stans-headers.com/jeep_headers.htm
Made in America and been doing it a long time.

[radar232]

Scout Damage
~ Nationwide will scrap your ride ~

November 2010 I decided to fully commit to my IH addiction and sold my yota. A decision I only regret when my Scout breaks down. Conveniently enough, I got hit by a damn Peterbuilt tractor-trailer that pulled out in front of me while making a wide right turn on a 3 lane HWY feeder. I was cruising around 50mph and couldn't pump the brakes hard or fast enough to avoid impact with out locking up the wheels and sliding while moving as far over as I could in the left hand lane but he ended up turning into my passenger side front clip and quarter panel. The damage wasn't all that bad, I guess but my pride sure took a beating.

Fortunately he did have insurance but they tried to call it a total loss. Obviously, I told them what they could do with that decision. Which caught them off guard. I reckon most adjusters are used to having people accept their decision without question. The Nationwide Claims Rep. actually tried to talk me into the settlement and keep the truck with a salvaged title. NOGO. A few days later they realized I'm no push over and agreed to repair the damage. I got a rental car and a check for about $5,000 for the repairs.

A local guy offered to "hook me up" with some quality collision repair. So I figured, in the long run, my Scout would be okay, maybe even better. Turns out he was a bobble-head and more concerned with painting his own truck so the quality of my repair work suffered. I did get to change the color back to the original red but several cracks showed up just a few weeks later and upon closer inspection, I realized the overall body work was horrible. The front passenger side corner is still pushed in about an 1.5" further, at the frame rail, than the driver side and the hood's shut lines are terrible. Nothing is square and they stacked a bunch of fender washers behind the hood hinge to hide the difference. They refused to work with me to correct these issues and things went south in a hurry. I hate craftsmen that don't stand behind there work.

At a glance the truck looks good but knowing whats wrong drives me nuts!
Anyway, enough complaining. Time for the pics.


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[radar232]

Genuine Weber 32/36 DGEV Conversion
Redline Carburetor Conversion Kit # K552

After driving my S80 in Houston traffic and giving in to the urge to improve performance I decided to go all in and "invest" in the few performance upgrades available for a 152 S80.
The first being the popular Weber 32/36 DGEV conversion.

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At this point, I had a good understanding of what is needed for a successful conversion and had obtained a nice collection of basic tools but didn't feel comfortable with rebuilding a used Weber so I bought a brand new genuine Weber conversion kit from Redline. Kit number K552, listed for a Jeep CJ/Cherokee with a 150cid 4cyl for about $550 and a jetting kit, P/N 701 DGV4. Don't recall my jet sizes but I did have to change 2 of them. However, the carb ran pretty damn well right out of the box.

I ordered the required fuel pressure regulator from Summitracing.com. Lots of fuel regulators available on the shelf at local parts stores but I wanted the regulator Redline suggested. Holley, P/N 12-804 for $28.95 and is set to 2.5psi on my 152.

In preparation for the conversion, I also had to figure out how to adapt my stock throttle linkage. Since the carb kit came set up for a pull cable I decided that was the way to go and also found what I needed at Summit, also listed for a Jeep. P/N OMX-1773501 for $12.29

The hardest part was building a bracket to mount the pull cable on my firewall just above the stock fuel peddle to eliminate the stock rod type linkage. For that I used a 2" length of 2" aluminum angle. I drilled a 1/2" hole on one side and then squared it up with a file to accept the square bushing on the pull cable assembly.

Not the best pic here but I think you'll get the idea.

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Finally, I drilled a small hole in the carb's pull cable bracket to add a supplemental throttle return spring. In the same picture, (Top Left Corner) you can barely see the fuel pressure regulator which I also mounted to the carburetor's pull cable bracket.

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Typically, I failed to take pictures of the actual carb conversion but it was easy enough. Remove the stock 1904. Clean carb base. Gasket, 2BBL adapter, gasket, Weber. I used Permatex High-Tack Gasket Sealant Spray on both sides of the gaskets, the carb base and the adapter with excellent results. Once I got the carb dialed in I definitely noticed gains and a much smoother idle @ 600rpm. I may be miss-remembering/exaggerating but I think I was able to get it to hold an idle around 100rpm... The 152 would cruise 65mph happily @ 3200rpm and still had enough grunt reserve to touch 70mph. I also noticed more power up hill but I never stomped on it from a full stop to see how fast it really was. (Or wasn't) At any rate, it's still an IH 152 and it's gonna take a minute to hit 60mph.