Help IH RA 6 rear end axle bearing 1960

[puckm2]

Tapered axle with key way.

I replace the axle bearings, they are a press fit on a tapered shaft, according to the manual to press them on you snap them down by hand. The hub does not slide up taper far enought to hold and pressure against inner race so it can come loose and slide down the axle. What do I do about that anything?

The factory had the backing plate shimmed from the flange that holds the outer race for end play (according to IH service manual), according to Six States and Dutchman motorsports the bearings should not be shimmed. I put the axle bearing and race in the housing slid the race into the flange flush with the shims ( reinstalled facory set) where the backing plate stops the race from coming back out.

The problem is nothing stops the axle and bearing from moving in and out. I can push the axle and bearing in until it stops against 3rd member which puts the bearing out of the race alittle and pull the axle back towards me until the bearing tightens up against the race. If I remove the shims and move the bearing race in flush with the housing flange and bolt the backing plate up against the race to keep it from moving outward, the axle and bearing still move in and out just not quite as much. On top of this what keeps the bearing brom staying with the race and just the axle moving in and out of the inner race because remember it is a hand pressed tapered fit.

What do i do? I can scan a parts breakdown and diagram if necessary but I am hoping somone has rebuilt on before.

[Greg R]

so it can come loose and slide down the axle.

It really can not; the outer race being retained by the backing plate holds it all in.

axle moving in and out of the inner race because remember it a hand pressed taered fit.

The taper is described as a "seizing" taper. The angle is so minimal it doesn't take much to grab and a greater force is needed to separate it then the thrust it might see.

[puckm2]

Originally Posted by Greg R

It really can not; the outer race being retained by the backing plate holds it all in.

True, but the fit did come loose and as the axle moved in and out the bearing did not.

I took it back apart used a piece of pipe and dead blow and lightly tap the inner race tight again on the taper of the shaft reinstalled with no shims (backing plate tight to axle flange, outer race flush with flange) put the hub on and the entire axle shaft slides in and out, took hub off and watched as I push the axle shaft inward the inner bearing moves in with shaft (and out of the outer race) until it hits differential but the outer race stays put. How can that be right and how am I suppose to set end play .001 -.009 if the entire shaft moves in and out 1/4"

I don't get what keeps the axle in place?

[Greg R]

how am I suppose to set end play .001 -.009 if the entire shaft moves in and out 1/4"

Okay now I think I get it. I'll bet dollars to donuts the thrust button for the Powr-Lok limited slip fell out. Without that thrust button that fits the differential's thrust block, you will get that huge shaft float.

[Greg R]

Here's a link to thread on what I mean by thrust button.

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...=thrust+button

[puckm2]

Perfect, thanks Greg. My OE service manual doesn't really cover this section very well and maybe I missed it but thanks, you saved the day. Now I just have to find them right?

[puckm2]

Using a magnet I was able to fish the buttons out through the fill hole. Using a long piece of wire and brake tubing I was able to put then back. Now the questions is, one of the buttons has a roll pin in it that sticks out past it, is the other button suppose to line up and slide onto that roll pin from other side? That seems nearly impossible but when i bolted everything up gently it seems like the axle are not going quite far enough, but not by a lot just a little.

Mike

Thanks again everything makes sense now. I did find the buttons listed in the IH parts manual as axle spacer pins.

[Greg R]

Using a long piece of wire and brake tubing I was able to put then back.

Perfecta Mundo!! I had to be taught that little cleverness.

I would say skip the roll pin as it's lost it's effectiveness. As long as the button is in place and allows your end play setting, go for it. Pin or not; it will probably fall out again on the next go around.

[Jeff Jamison]

The roll pin was originaly through both to hold them together,I once tore the rear apart to replace the roll pin.I was told by a mechanic I trust to just put some grease on them to hold them inplace till the axle is in,as they will fall out next time you are in there.
Jeff

[puckm2]

Great, thank you, you guys are awesome.


Mike