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#1
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If those numbers are right, and my math is correct, then the tire location would be pretty close to the same. chevy60/h1s=55, and my scout as it sits=54.25. Am I looking at this all wrong..does anyone have a picture? |
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#2
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Before I comment it is necessary to mention I am only just trying to offer pics and details of what the H1 (HMMWV) wheels were designed for and will proceed under the assumption that your D60 is a rear axle.
If my assumptions are correct you are probably on the right track at least for the rear but there MAY be some steering issues regarding turning radius and rubbing of the axle or frame in the front with a 7" backspace. (If I understand the effects of back spacing like I think I do.) HMMWV's have four wheel independent suspension and the axles shafts turn opposite of wheel rotation. So there is a gear box (or final drive) tucked into all four wheel wells along with the braking system. Which gives purpose to such a large back spacing. So the wheels would overlap a straight axle housing by several inches. No big deal in the rear but could cause problems in the front. I can't know how that would be corrected but I'm certain it has been done before... It seems H1 wheels are popular for rock crawlers and such but I've never really thought much about it till now. May I ask why you are looking to run H1's? Hope the pictures help.
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1962 Scout 80 4X4. >Stock Modified< ![]() 80/800 Hula Girl Club |
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#3
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H1 rims must be run on dually front hubs.
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ASE mastercertified engine machinist, gas and diesel Brake and alignment specialist Agriculture/industrial tractor tech. 68 Rambler American 72 1210 4x4 77 ScoutII 88 Olds Cutlas Calais Quad4 5spd 97 JEEP TJ 99 Yamaha YFS 200 (248) Carlos Mencia said it! don't be a "DEE DEE DEE"! |
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#4
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I have put them in the front but they require an offset high steer arm to clear the rim.
You can do a google search and find all kinds of examples of the people running the H1 rims. it's even been discussed here before IIRC. The inside offset does make it nice to keep the tires tucked under the scout body. But they will not just bolt on and work. New steer arms and a new shorter drag link are required. May need to shorten the tie rod also depending on where it's mounted. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=672714 http://northwestfab.3dcartstores.com/Dana-60_c_36.html
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Bill USN-1 ![]() Click a link below that meets your needs! Either DIY or let me help. COMMITED TO HELPING PEOPLE "PROPERLY" INSTALL EFI Learn to do it right. May be the answer to all your fuel injection needs! WANTED-Holley Distributor Last edited by Bill usn-1; 06-29-2012 at 08:53 AM. |
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#5
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Not a 60, but a 69" Dana44 Hysteer clears tierods easily enough, stockish late model chevy truck backspacing with 12.50 35's that seem to tuck inside the fenders when flexed well Sitting SOA with stockish leafs and 1/2"-1" body lift If you are looking for the beadlock then obviously h1's are great, but cheap non bead lock are the H2 wheels and have similiar offset numbers as the H1 wheels. H2 wheels can be plentiful at times, just be patient, most were going 200-300 for set of five around here
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1980 Scout II, 304, full width SOA, 8 lug d44 ff14bolt w/disc, stock'ish springs 35's - "first build" Quote:
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| Tags |
| 4.2 , axle , axle swap , axles , back spacing , chevy , dana 60 , deal , frame , front , gear , hose , pictures , question , rear , rear axle , rims , scout , shorten , steering , suspension , swap , tire , truck , wheels |
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