Ignition Switch Help

[nmrockcrawler]

I am trying to remove the ignition switch from the steering column of my 79' scout. It has a tilt column and the switch is so worn out it is stuck in the on position and I need to remove and replace it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Patrick Morris]

Been a while since I did mine, but I recall having to remove the steering wheel first. Once that's out you can access the innards of the ign switch. I think there is a lever or button or something that you press to release the ign/key switch. Then you just pull it out.

Getting the steering wheel off is the hardest part of course.

[Eric VanBuren]

Are you sure it is the switch? the tilt Saginaw columns are particularly notorious for wearing out the rack and pinion gears that connect the lock cyl to the switch at the bottom of the column.

[nmrockcrawler]

Well I am assuming thats what it is. I went out one day cranked it over and the key stuck in the on position. Finally got the key out and can only start it with a screw driver now. I honestly have never had an issue of this nature so I am kinda lost.
Thanks for the help.

[Eric VanBuren]

The ignition switch is not the problem. It sounds like the problem is the lock cyl, and if it wasn't before it is now if you are starting it with a key, but the original problem could have been the rack and pinion.

To remove the lock cyl you have to remove the steering wheel, horn contact and TS switch. Then with the lock cyl in the "run" position you can push the release tab with a small screw driver, Allen wrench or paper clip and then the lock cyl will slide out.

[Thomas]

---Sounds to me like you're suffring from the "normal GM part" syndrome. I argued about part numbers with a counter monkey for some time before I finally said "if it's wrong, Ill be back" to return a part they said they couldn't accept, if the package was opened. Needless to say, I did come back, it was accepted as a return & once again, "The "usual/basic GM part" BS didn't fly in the IH world. Problem with that lock cylinder was it was was a hair too long and wouldn't allow the key to return to RUN after START and releasing the key. I physically had to turn it back.

---First off, no matter how frustrated you get or how much you feel it will help, don't ever hammer on the column of shaft... this includes the steering wheel. The structural integrity & design of the "collapsible" column will be compromised... even if it's light taps.

---You'll need a steering wheel puller for sure. Make certain the bolts you use fit the threads. They should thread in more than three turns. Pull the threads out of the wheel & you'll be in a world of hurt.

---The horn contact/turn signal cancelling can cannot be removed with a lock plate remover, so you'll have to search the board for the two posts that explained making a special tool to remove it. A lock plate remover will shatter that hard to find part. There's an external snap ring holding that in place. Depress the horn contact/TSCC and remove the snap ring.

---Next is the screws for the turn signal switch. Put the switch in the full right hand positon and you should be able to see the three screws that hold it in. Remove the TS lever & then the screw.

---Really doesn't matter what position the cylinder is in, just as long as the new one goes in, in the same position.

---FWIW, it's Rack & Sector Gear that connects to the ignition switch actuator rod, and controls the ignition switch. The rack has gears on it, which mate with the sector gear, into which the end of the lock cylinder slips. That is where "just as long as the new one goes in, in the same position" comes in.

---I have posted in the past, an image of where to find the slot in the upper column, that if still original, would need to be opened. If the cylinder has been replaced in the past, it'll just be a slot that will accept a small screwdriver or similar, rigid tool. It's a groove about the size of a PEZ candy. The recessed/indented portion is barely 1/16" thick cast aluminum, and can be opened with a sharp screwdriver even. Once that's removed, you'll see a plastic tab that needs to be pressed & then the lock cylinder can be pulled out. The tab can be seen on the end of your replacement lock cylinder. If the counter monkey gives you one without a plastic tab but one with a rounded groove, slap him/her in the head, your column doesn't have a screw that holds it in place.

[nmrockcrawler]

Thanks for all the help. I was able to get the lock cylinder out. Thanks so very much for the advice and information.