Widening Scout II frame for engine/trans lowering

[WAR WAGON]

I am going to lower the 345 as it sits in the chassis by an inch or more for better driveline angles. To do this the frame must be cutout to clear the exhaust manifold flanges. I'll post photos as my progress allows. I'll also be converting from 4spd to 727 automatic at the same time.

First step was to pull the engine:


Previously added shock towers:
http://www.binderplanet.com/photopos...t2-206&cat=501

Bolted a heavy C-channel in place between the two motor mount frame pads to keep them in the right relationship with each other:


Added a new sides to the frame outboard of where I am going to cut:




Added more temporary bracing and made the first cuts to the frame:


Motor mounts (with C-channel tool) cut free, welds smoothed on frame:

Check back later.

[Tonka Toy]

WOW! Ambitious project! I'm curious though, would it have been possible to build a custom set of headers, rather than all of the frame mods? Looks like you definitely know what you are doing though. With all of that bracing, that frame isn't going anywhere!

[WAR WAGON]

Good point.

This truck actually used to have Hooker headers (the ones that go outside of the frame rail with one tube). I had to dispose of them when I put in the universal joints for the steering column to eliminate the rag joint. The left forward header tube and the u-joint are mutually exclusive.

I then had a nice custom dual exhaust built around factory manifolds. I probably didn't want to spend money again on the exhaust, if I didn't know for sure how much I could gain, clearance wise. I have had bad experiences in the past with keeping headers sealed up, too.

This is something I have been noodling for a long time. I kind of was inspired by some of the discussions on this board back in the day. I just hadn't seen it done before.

I kind of wanted to rephase everything to eliminate a vibration that started around 73 mph. Although I setup the rear perfectly equal and opposite during the build, the leaf springs settled in and the rear pinion angle shifted by 2 degrees. Plus I wanted a 727 for easier wheeling, especially on inclines.

The big problem will be the aft bolt for the power steering gear box. That might be a limiting factor on lowering it. I may have to recess it, and that will be complicated.

[gearheart]

This is a creative solution to the problem. I like the pic's with all the labels. Makes it much easier to follow.

Out of curiosity, did you consider a double cardan joint at the rear t-case output? I have had good luck with them for driveline vibration elimination. (with 0* angle at the rear axle of course)

Keep us updated and let everybody know how it works out so there are more choices!

Mike

[WAR WAGON]

Originally Posted by gearheart

This is a creative solution to the problem. I like the pic's with all the labels. Makes it much easier to follow.

Out of curiosity, did you consider a double cardan joint at the rear t-case output?
Mike

The problem is I didn't have one on hand to try. It might work, but the Scout has an awfully short driveshaft with the Dana 60 rear. That, coupled with the large offset between the two equal and opposite centerlines, might cause a bind during wheeling. I just don't know.

[WAR WAGON]

Since the aft bolt that goes through the frame common to the power steering gear box will prevent lowering the engine more than about 3/4", it was time to tackle that next. There was a sleeve that had to be removed to do the modification. It will have a captive nut with a different recessed sleeve.

[WAR WAGON]

[WAR WAGON]

[WAR WAGON]

Next up will be closing off the cutout and creating a doubler for the motor mount area. I might be a while, as I have other things to attend to...

[WAR WAGON]