Original gauges reading low - fix

[Dennis Bernth]

Looks like it would handle it, it will take 3 amps (can't see the sending units pulling that much) at up to 23v input. Here are the specs copied off the listing.

Description




Features:
•All epoxy sealed containers with Waterproof Housing;
•Light compact, convenient to use and transport;
•Non-isolated
•High efficiency:>96%;
•Reliable, low heat dissipation max. 40 ℃;
•With overload / over-current / over / low voltage protection, stable performance.
•Auto recovery

Specifications:
•Input range: 8~23v
•Output voltage:5V
•Output current/power:3A
•Efficiency: ＞96%
•Weight: 30g
•Size(LxWxH): 26×36×21(mm)
•Cable length: 100mm

Package included:
•2 x DC12v to 5v 15W Converter

Should be able to tie both negative wires to the same ground point, then wire up the postive wires and go. For $12.50 for a pair of these, it wouldn't cost much to try.

[Eric VanBuren]

I didn't scroll all the way down to see that they could handle that much voltage. Yes depending on the readings of the gauges at a given moment they shouldn't draw more than ~1a combined.

Yes 2 for that price is very hard to beat.

[bull]

eraser brand makes a dedicated PCB/contact eraser..radio shack has em as well..basically any fiberglass bristle type pen will safely clean up those PCB's..PCB erasers have been around for years

ps: i bought this and the refills from micro tool (in addition to eraser brand)--very good west german tool (dedicated wiha tool man as well)
http://www.amazon.com/SE-Fiberglass-.../dp/B0037ZGL2G

ps: for total uselessness the old stock am/fm radio draws under 1 amp (about .81ish)..must be japanese know-how.

ps: 1157 bulb pulls about 7ish amps (not verified as to lazy to hook the scope up)on startup..then goes to 3 and down to 1ish amp (multimeter wont see the 7 but the analog meters will swing from 3 to 1amp) when fully lit and heated (heat=high R)...amp drawdown i looked at for a solid week of trying to figure out why i did not have TS..never did find out4 sure why they just started working (me thinks pack-con conncetor and that darn purple wire)

[jawsplace]

Is there a way to recalibrate the SII fuel gauge? With a completely full tank the needle on my gauge still shows just over 3/4 full.

[Eric VanBuren]

Originally Posted by jawsplace

Is there a way to recalibrate the SII fuel gauge? With a completely full tank the needle on my gauge still shows just over 3/4 full.

Fix the excess resistance in the system starting with cleaning the circuit board and replacing the cheap stamped steel nuts with brass ones. First tighten one of the existing ones, remove, clean and replace the other, then do the one you tightened first. The majority of the time that will fix the problem and get you back in factory calibration which is that it should read at the full line +/- 1 needle width.

[jawsplace]

I assume the same will improve the calibration of my oil pressure gauge? I always have good/normal pressure but the gauge reads so low.

[Eric VanBuren]

Originally Posted by jawsplace

I assume the same will improve the calibration of my oil pressure gauge? I always have good/normal pressure but the gauge reads so low.

Yup and your temp gauge too as I bet it is reading low as well, does it run about straight up once the engine is fully warmed up?

[jawsplace]

Originally Posted by Eric VanBuren

Yup and your temp gauge too as I bet it is reading low as well, does it run about straight up once the engine is fully warmed up?

No, my temp gauge hovers around 1/3 of the way towards "H" even when the engine is at operating temperature.

[Eric VanBuren]

Originally Posted by jawsplace

No, my temp gauge hovers around 1/3 of the way towards "H" even when the engine is at operating temperature.

Then a clean and tightening of the connection or preferably replace the nuts with brass ones will likely put your gauges back in factory calibration.

I recommend only doing one nut at a time after making sure the other is tight so the gauge doesn't move around in it's pod and short out on the case. You also want to disconnect the battery before messing with the fuel gauge because the wires on the ammeter are always hot.

[Dennis Bernth]

This fix is one of the first things I do on any Scout I buy. I think I first posted on it about 8 years ago when I found out what a difference it makes to clean up the contacts and PC boards. It's also not uncommon to have the 'pins' on the PC board come loose from the printed circuit, that can be addressed by careful soldering with a low watt soldering iron, done that also. Definitely worthwhile time spent. I do have one of those 'chinese' voltage droppers on order, and I have the dash apart in the 75, so since it's not a big deal to swap it into a spare gauge pod I have I'll report back on how it works or doesn't work.