Project Git-R-Done: 68 Travelall 4x4 1100C Do-It-All-Rig

[VooDoo]

Got the steering box and pump all cleaned, painted and installed. Here it is with the 4"-6" raised GM steering arm on the axle knuckle. It is still too low for a striaght drag link IMHO, so something like BigMookied's is probably warranted.



The IH steering box pitman arm looks to be ~7.25"-7.5" Center-2-Center and kicks in ~2.5". Since the GM raised steering arm sits ~1.5" closer to the drivers side, I assume a GM pitman arm with the proper hole for a 3/4 tie rod end that is ~7.25'-7.5" C-2-C and has a ~1"-2.5" kick (Is drop the right term?) would work (or I can have the current OEM IH pitman rimmed to GM 3/4 ton size).

Anyone have a Saginaw steering box pitman arm table with measurements source to see if one is available?

[VooDoo]

Originally Posted by guidolyons

Here's a few pics from when I did mine. It's a little easier out of the truck, but you can do it laying on your back in the driveway, too

I wasn't too aggressive, just down to the bottom bolt head, got about ~3/4" of clearance and now it's nice and smooth. (pics taken pre-Ruff Stuff diff cover)

Great detail! That looks easy enough and saves some $$$'s too... Thanks.

[VooDoo]

Revisiting the T-35 5spd clutch operation issues:



Went to the ranch today and had a chance to compare the original 68 4spd throw out bearing shaft to the Bus/Loadstar T-35 5spd (Assumed it came from a Bus/Loadstar because of the shifter plate spacer that shortens the shift pattern for the long shifter, that I had to bend into the 68 Travelall shape). Here are the major differences.

The shaft goes in from the passenger side on the 4spd while the shaft goes in on the driver’s side on the 5spd. This puts the clutch slave on the opposite side of the truck and moves it from a top location to a bottom location (where I found out there is not enough clearance to use the 5spd lower driver’s side clutch slave bracket on a 68 Travelall).

In addition, the shaft on the 4spd is 7/8” in diameter, while the shaft on the 5spd is 1” in diameter; and the shaft is longer on the 5spd because the bell housing is wider. Swapping the shaft is not doable! This can be seen in the photo below with the T35 arm drawn in if it was installed like the 4spd (only wider). The T35 arm would basically be in line with the circled bell housing bolt, while the 68 4spd is as pictured in line with the lower inside clutch slave bracket bolt on the head.



It appears the 5spd throw out bearing shaft used with the 60’s round body Travelall has a unique bend in the arm on the shaft and is key-notched to be installed from the passenger side, thus using the same upper passenger side clutch slave bracket that the 4spds do. Here is a picture of the proper 60’s round body 5spd throw out bearing shaft arm and clutch slave location (as another binderfile posted).



I have the old 4spd bracket pictured here installed on my rig. The 5spd shaft end is visible in this picture.



So, I have some options to think about… Source a proper shaft or modify my current T-35 shaft to work from the passenger side. Locating a proper 5spd shaft would be great, but likely difficult to find and will require dropping the transmission the old fashioned way. ANYBODY HAVE A 1” DIAMETER 5SPD TRAVELALL SHAFT WITH THE BEND IN THE ARM LYING AROUND? It’s for a good cause!

Modifying the current shaft to be installed from the passenger side also requires dropping the trans, calculated machine work for the key and arm fabrication...

Another route is to make a ¼” thick bolt on arm to convert the current lower driver’s side clutch slave to an UPPER DRIVER’S SIDE clutch slave and make or modify the original cylinder head clutch slave bracket for the driver’s side; IF there is enough room on that side with the other components over there???

My current setup is shown in the first picture that doesn’t have enough room for the clutch slave to mount on the lower driver’s side Loadstar bracket I hoped to use (not enough body clearance in the tunnel). I'm not sure what else will be in the way on the upper driver's side???

I’m wide open for all input on how to proceed…

[VooDoo]

Originally Posted by mtnmotocross

I know on my Dana 44 the backlash was to be less than .011 measured at the ring gear with a magnetic dial indicator. Your build looks great.

Thanks. I haven't got under there yet to measure the degree of slop that the yoke turns from left to right. I was hoping not to open it up again, but I will check the 14B blacklash for spec if I do. The backlash for a 14B appears to be a rather large range of: .003” - .012” (.005" - .008" preferred). Don't know how to calculate that into rotation of the yoke? (May not be possible)


I currently have "30" degree of yoke slop . This feels excessive IMHO.

Hopefully others can comment on how this compares to their yoke "slop."

[VooDoo]

Clutch slave resolution:

After further inspection and much brain storming it looks like the easiest way to fix the clutch slave clearance issue is to trim the spot welded body seam off after welding it together from the inside of the body interior. That will clear the clutch slave cylinder, but I may have to do a little extra work for the part that sticks out to accept the hydraulic line to the master or find a clutch slave that has the hydraulic fitting coming out the rear of the cylinder. Not sure if one of those exist?



The good thing is that the original Bus/Loadstar T35 5spd bracket will be used after all, so there is no question as to proper function. (ADDED: NOPE, AS YOU WILL SEE I ENDED UP GOING UPPER DRIVER'S SIDE...)

[VooDoo]

This old beast is being a different kind of "B" this weekend! After even more soul searching, I've started making a clutch slave bracket that bolts onto the drivers side head and operates from the top. Installed the throttle plate (screw holes for it causing more furstration... ) and checked for clearance. All looks good and I will be able to bleed it easily from the engine compartment. I'm flip-flopping more that fish fish out of water on this one or should I say a politician!

Back to the rear differential yoke slop issue:

Originally Posted by VooDoo

Thanks. I haven't got under there yet to measure the degree of slop that the yoke turns from left to right. I was hoping not to open it up again, but I will check the 14B blacklash for spec if I do. The backlash for a 14B appears to be a rather large range of: .003” - .012” (.005" - .008" preferred). Don't know how to calculate that into rotation of the yoke? (May not be possible)


I currently have "30" degree of yoke slop . This feels excessive IMHO.

Hopefully others can comment on how this compares to their yoke "slop."

Here's two pictures showing the rediculous amount (in my mind) of slop when I rotate the yoke while the truck is stationary.



There are 6 bolts behind the yoke marking 60* between them. The yoke slop is half the distance between two of those bolts, so is 30*! That just seems way too sloppy in my school of independent thought mind.

How does that sit with you guys? How does it compare to the slop in your rear differential yokes?

[Jeff Jamison]

Dont know on that rear,but if my dana 60 had that much play I would be opening it up,that looks way to much to me.By the way,my throttle plate is not on my 68 either,and didnt have time to search for the parts bag
Jeff

[VooDoo]

Originally Posted by Jeff Jamison

Dont know on that rear,but if my dana 60 had that much play I would be opening it up,that looks way to much to me.By the way,my throttle plate is not on my 68 either,and didnt have time to search for the parts bag
Jeff

I know the guy that installed the Detroit-Locker and new2me pinion with good yoke (my yoke was damaged) didn't have a pinion shim kit, so I will be taking your advice and double checking the backlash at some point.

Hoping to pick up some longer 5/8" U-bolts and longer steel lift blocks at the 4Wheel Parts 10th Annual Truck & Jeep Fest June 9-10th or at their June 9th One-Day-Only 15% sale. I'll check to see if they carry the 14B shim kits too.

PS: Found my bag-O-bolts, but the ones I was looking for were not in there (?). Cleaned the firewall nuts all up with a 1/4-28 tap and good to go.

[guidolyons]

Originally Posted by VooDoo

This old beast is being a different kind of "B" this weekend! After even more soul searching, I've started making a clutch slave bracket that bolts onto the drivers side head and operates from the top. Installed the throttle plate (screw holes for it causing more furstration... ) and checked for clearance. All looks good and I will be able to bleed it easily from the engine compartment. I'm flip-flopping more that fish fish out of water on this one or should I say a politician!

Back to the rear differential yoke slop issue:


Here's two pictures showing the rediculous amount (in my mind) of slop when I rotate the yoke while the truck is stationary.



There are 6 bolts behind the yoke marking 60* between them. The yoke slop is half the distance between two of those bolts, so is 30*! That just seems way too sloppy in my school of independent thought mind.

How does that sit with you guys? How does it compare to the slop in your rear differential yokes?

An 1/8th-1/4 turn is about right for slop in the pinon, you can pull the diff cover, check the pattern and backlash pretty easily. As long as the gear pattern looks good and it's not making weird noises, run it!

[guidolyons]

Originally Posted by VooDoo

This old beast is being a different kind of "B" this weekend! After even more soul searching, I've started making a clutch slave bracket that bolts onto the drivers side head and operates from the top. Installed the throttle plate (screw holes for it causing more furstration... ) and checked for clearance. All looks good and I will be able to bleed it easily from the engine compartment. I'm flip-flopping more that fish fish out of water on this one or should I say a politician!

Back to the rear differential yoke slop issue:


Here's two pictures showing the rediculous amount (in my mind) of slop when I rotate the yoke while the truck is stationary.



There are 6 bolts behind the yoke marking 60* between them. The yoke slop is half the distance between two of those bolts, so is 30*! That just seems way too sloppy in my school of independent thought mind.

How does that sit with you guys? How does it compare to the slop in your rear differential yokes?

An 1/8th-1/4 turn is about right for slop in the pinon, you can pull the diff cover, check the pattern and backlash pretty easily. As long as the gear pattern looks good and it's not making weird noises, run it!