Another Success Story!

[taklbury]

Hello everyone. I have successfully installed a TBI setup on my 1980 CJ7 (wheeling rig). First I would like to offer a GREAT THANK YOU to Bill and everyone else that contributes to this forum. I have been trolling for several months now, learning how to do this and thanx to all the info here, the install went smooth. When I close my eyes now I see the word FAQs (Thanx Bill!!!!) My system started on the first try! I’m running an ’84’ 4.2 motor with a header. I’m utilizing a 4.3 7747 ECM (ATKX), 4.3 injectors, heated O2 sensor. The system controls timing. The tps is set at .59V. Idle is set at 550rpm.
First impression was WOW, no cold start issues like I had w/ the MC2100 carb. That was a tremendous improvement over the Carter, but this is Leaps and Bounds better! I took it out for a ride and so far so good. My timing is set at 2* btc and acceleration is smooth.
I got Winaldl up and running and everything looks good (I think). The following is taken from the raw data screen. Initially the BLM varied from 121 to 128 from idle to 2K plus rpm (closed loop). After monitoring for about an hour the low number came up to 125. Im guessing its ecm learning curve! This is in park only for now. I haven’t had a chance to monitor it while driving yet. The jeeps back up on jacks because my steering box is coming loose from the frame. I need to do some surgery on the frame to fix the problem.
I do have a couple questions. 1st is fuel pressure. It runs at a steady 11 ¾ lbs. whether at idle or during throttle increase. I noticed that when I shut the engine off the gauge drops to 0. As soon as the engine starts to crank, it goes back to 11 ¾. I was under the impression that the fuel system would/ should maintain a steady pressure whether or not the pump was on. I’m not experiencing any kind of problem from this, just curious. I’m running 5/16 line from the tank, through the pump and along the frame rail to the firewall. I then bump up to 3/8 hose (about 4’) to get up to the throttle body. The return is 5/16 back to the sending unit where I had to drop to ¼ because of the tube on the sending unit. No leaks found. There are two additional vent lines off the tank that tie into evap stuff.
2nd is SES codes, or lack there of. I am not using the egr, vss, or p/n wires. I figured I’d set off the SES light but it hasn’t. As a test I started it w/ out the map vacuum line attached and that set off the SES. I cleared it and no more lights. I’m not complaining (lol), just curious.
Again, Thankyou everyone! Jeff McLean

[Bill usn-1]

Jeff, Congrats on the install. It feels good knowing you did it, doesn't it.

You were doing so good right up until you mentioned RAW data.......

Back to the FAQ's for you.
You want everything except raw data.

Concerns:

Fuel pressure- i don't get concerned with how long the regulator maintains the FP when i turn off the key. As long as the pressure pumps up during the initial key on pump run then i'm fine. If not then your cranking time before start up may be longer since the pump will run again as soon as the ecm recieves the DRP-distr ref pulse.

You can probably get away with your smaller lines just fine since you have a 6 cyl. less demand for fuel.


SES codes are set when specific conditions occur when they shouldn't or don't occur when they should.

Setting in your driveway you are not going to set the EGR or VSS and there is no code for pk/N since they also used a manual trans.
You will set a VSS code once you start driving unless you program the chip to remove it or add a vss.

[taklbury]

I have my 1st run of the season the last weekend of the month. Hopefully Ill have my frame issues solved and can get some logging time in beforehand. Then I'll visit the chip programming issue. Thanx again!

[taklbury]

Well I fixed the frame and took it for a ride. About 6 miles into it the ses light came on as Bill said it would. I stopped at about 8 miles and dropped in on a friend. Came out to show off all my work and the jeep wouldnt start. The motor cranked fine but I noticed no ses light when I turned the ignition on. Started checking connections. Got hold of a test light. About 10 minutes into it, I was able to start it w/ out issue.
Drove home and parked. Came out with the laptop to check the code. Again no power to the ecm. I got out the test light and found direct battery power to the ecm and power into the relay. I turned the key and power was back. (again about 10-15 minutes elapsed time)I noticed that the ecm was very hot from the heater plenum. The ecm sits directly over the heater core. I'm gonna add insulation wrap between the plenum and the ecm. The next day I drove it to see if i would happen again but of coarse it didnt do it. It also wasnt nearly as hot out. I'm leaning toward the relay for the ecm/ injectors shutting down temporarily (cheapo $5 Baja relay). Oh ya, the only code showing was the vss. Any thoughts?

[Bill usn-1]

Intermittent is hard to find until it doesn't work.
But if you had no SES light then it's only 2 things, a gnd from the ecm and 12v from the key switch.

Just as a FYI, the FAQ's tend to point you to using a relay for all power for the system and not relying on any stock wiring at all except the 12V that used to go to the + side of the coil that is now used to energize the 2 relays. One for the Fuel pump and one for the rest of the system.

[taklbury]

I'm leaning toward the relay, but until it happens again I wont be able to tell. I'm dragging it up to NH this weekend for its first true test. Just in case I found this on ebay. Is it me or are dual 87 output relays really hard to find?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130618127011...84.m1438.l2649

[Bill usn-1]

Never had a problem finding them. those look pretty good. Just kind of pricey.

A little risky taking it out with an intermittent problem.