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#1
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#2
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Iskenderian is the 'grandfather' of racing cams. Did much of the research on cam types and the business is still at the cutting edge.
That said, we need no racing cams in our SV8s. Most of the cam grinders do a decent job for our engine use. Our light line suppliers have experience on cam types and grinds. What is frequently missed is the proper "degreeing" of the cam at installation. First true top dead center must be determined. The mark on the dampner may not be accurate. Then using a degree wheel, the cam position can be determined. Because our SV8 engines use timing gears, not a timing chain, changing cam timing can be a problem. Simply moving the cam gear one tooth on the crank gear may not do the trick. In those gases, there are split keys to shift the cam gear a bit for more accuracy. I have never used any bearings but Durabond so I have no experience with other brands. I have used CompCams and Isky cams and am happy with both. Don't make the mistake of buying too wild a cam because you loose your bottom end torque. A little more cam than stock works well in Scouts. Iskenderian publishes a pamphlet on how to degree your cam. Split keys are available at any hot rod shop or machinist.
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Doc Stewart "Tough Old Geezer" Charter member: IH Old Hippie Club Last edited by Doc Stewart; 03-29-2012 at 10:26 AM. |
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#3
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Cool - thanks Doc. Bought a 1210 with failed cam bearings and the cam is wiped. I'm leaning toward the isky and lifters because of the price from the light line and their rep. I've yet to see anyone post on the adjustable timing gear though which would make degreeing the cam easier - I might scapegoat myself though and try one, unless somebody has a horror story
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#4
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I have a couple of NOS IHC cams I would sell for $100 a peice + freight .
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Dan Phariss 66 1200A 4x4 74 200 4x4 75 200 4x4 "The meek shall inherit the earth, generally in small plots about 3X6X6." Robert Heinlein |
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#5
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I bought an Isky for my rebuild and am happy with the Cam. The lifter's they sent me were junk, and some of them didn't even have the right guts in them. My Dad called the factory and he was assured that every lifter was checked before it was sent out. We told them we disassembled the suspect lifters and they were missing parts. After a few more calls they finally agreed to refund us for the bad lifter, but we had to ship them back on our dime. With the exception of the poor customer service Isky was great to deal with.
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IHSTO Club President, please feel free to contact me with questions and comments. CoD - Prodigal Son |
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#6
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#7
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as carl stated,stay away from the lifters that come w/cams,i to did that w/comp cams,good cam but the ANTI-PUMP up lifter's are junk.johnson lifter's are far the best in my book.jeff-( johnson makes lifters for different manufacture's as well just in different box)
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jeffoh-'71-1210 t'all-'74-150 t'all-'69-1100-4wd-all- t'all/..'73 1010 wagon master (soon to be a 1110 4WD)..'73-1200 t lette 2wd,(soon to be 4wd) |
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#8
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just looked up lifter's-rock auto-S.power $10.39 ea. HT 855,o'reilly's- $6.69 ea. jeff
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jeffoh-'71-1210 t'all-'74-150 t'all-'69-1100-4wd-all- t'all/..'73 1010 wagon master (soon to be a 1110 4WD)..'73-1200 t lette 2wd,(soon to be 4wd) |
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#9
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I used a Camcraft Cam that was specifically ground for my engine. It's really only slightly different lift and duration than an off the shelf RV grind, a little more ramp speed. It was the limit of what I could do and still keep my Scout smog legal in California. It came with Johnson lifters that cost $100.00 extra. Both cam and lifters have been very happy and so is the driver.
Doc is right on point about degreeing the cam. This is a must. If you don't degree the cam you may end up with and engine that doesn't make vacuum to its full potential. If you don't know how to do it, my best advise is do your homework and find out how to do it then, find someone who does and have him/her do it while you watch. IH gears are not close enough to just line up the marks. There may be up to a 4 degree difference even though all the gear sets are virtually the same. Odds are you will need an offset key to get the valve timing right.
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1980 SII, 345, 727, D20, 1977 Terra 304, T-19wr, D20 |
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#10
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Quote:
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72 Travelall 1200 4x4, 392. Im the "Picasso" of rattle can paint jobs.
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| 100 , bearings , cam , camshaft , comp cams , crank , cutting , dead , engine , gear , gears , hose , hot , light , parts , power , problem , racing , rebuild , scout , shop , timing , top , wheel |
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