cut and turn question

[Mark Ashford]

Originally Posted by Scottiebell

I dont understand why you guys are having such a bad time with road manners with the SUA rough country 4". I have it on my 75 Scout 2, no drop pitman with 33's and it drives like a champ. I drive my truck down the freeway with the tip of my index finger at 70-75 miles an hour. Maybe you are both experiencing frame fatigue, and may wanna invest in a straight steer before spending tons of money on a SOA conversion that will most likely NOT fix your crappy road manners. Im not a pro by any means, i just look at the cheapest solutions first, and have never seen any of the scouts that i kick around with have those road/highway issues from a bolt in 4" lift.

Unless I missed something, the OP is not talking about SOA at all, just doing a cut-n-turn to improve the caster and with the the handling.

Doing a cut-n-turn is actually pretty cheap, darn near free if you do all the work yourself. Its just time. The first one will take FOREVER... they get easier after that



Also, as a side note as I've seen it in a couple threads. A dropped pitman arm is worthless, waste of money. A 4" spring lift does not impart enough bump-steer to be a big deal, and the drop pitman arm is shorter than a stock arm and reduces your turning radius. Save the money, put it into new bushings or having any of the fatigue cracks in the frame welded up.

[stroker3]

Originally Posted by 76-scout-MATT

p.s. found a roll bar on craigslist from a 73 scout ... will that fit my 76... it attaches at the bend in front of back seat and wheel wells

Glanced through the posts, not sure if the simple part was answered. It'll fit. Have one on mine but it's more of a show bar than a real roll bar.

[radar232]

Originally Posted by Mark Ashford

Unless I missed something, the OP is not talking about SOA at all, just doing a cut-n-turn to improve the caster and with the the handling.

Doing a cut-n-turn is actually pretty cheap, darn near free if you do all the work yourself. Its just time. The first one will take FOREVER... they get easier after that



Also, as a side note as I've seen it in a couple threads. A dropped pitman arm is worthless, waste of money. A 4" spring lift does not impart enough bump-steer to be a big deal, and the drop pitman arm is shorter than a stock arm and reduces your turning radius. Save the money, put it into new bushings or having any of the fatigue cracks in the frame welded up.

Good catch Mark.
I see "cut and turn" I automatically think its for SOA. Also good to know about drop pitmans. Never seen anyone discredit them, the way you explain it makes since though,
Obviously not the OP but thanks.

[76-scout-MATT]

wow thanks for all the input.... funny about the pitman arm... they called and said my credit card did not work... they had one number wrong... oh well sorry .. order cancelled... i like the turning radius i have now.... as far as SOA ... i just do not have that kind of money... high steer... reverse shackle... bigger tires... another set of springs because i dont want the truck that big if i use my rc lift springs... besides this project... i think i blew a head gasket... and getting ready to chase the rust around the truck and cut out metal... already looking at several hundred bucks in metal..shoot some fresh paint .. and i want bumpers and a stereo and a winch and on board air for my train horn and such..... the list goes on as usual... SOA is not on that list...

mark... thanks for the details... still might pull the trigger on a cv shaft... might not...

stroker... can not see myself actually doing anything that i will be in danger of rolling over so probably a show bar is what i am talking about .. something to hold up the bikinni top and maybe mount some shoulder straps to

AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME..... THANK YOU ALL...

now get off the computer and get some work done... (that is for me)

[Jay Tabor]

[QUOTE=76-scout-MATT;760313]
stroker... can not see myself actually doing anything that i will be in danger of rolling over so probably a show bar is what i am talking about .. something to hold up the bikinni top and maybe mount some shoulder straps to


erroneus thinking

[stroker3]

[QUOTE=Jay Tabor;760320]

Originally Posted by 76-scout-MATT

stroker... can not see myself actually doing anything that i will be in danger of rolling over so probably a show bar is what i am talking about .. something to hold up the bikinni top and maybe mount some shoulder straps to


erroneus thinking

Not really. Travel tops don't hold up in rollovers either. At least when the tops on, the show bar helps.

[Patrick Morris]

Originally Posted by Mark Ashford

Also, as a side note as I've seen it in a couple threads. A dropped pitman arm is worthless, waste of money. A 4" spring lift does not impart enough bump-steer to be a big deal, and the drop pitman arm is shorter than a stock arm and reduces your turning radius. Save the money, put it into new bushings or having any of the fatigue cracks in the frame welded up.

I'm glad someone pointed this out. I was going to mention it when I saw dropped-pitman arm above. Yeah, Not only will the shorter PA reduce the radius, it will also slow the turning ratio as well. i.e., you'd have to spin that steering wheel a bit more when making those left and right turns.

I have discussed these aftermarket DPAs with one of the regular vendors here. He told me that Skyjacker's version is just a standard Jeep part from one particular application. It just happens to fit on a Scout's steering box and will work if you put it there.

If using a DPA, the only way to maintain the same steering ratio, etc., is to go with one of the "high steer" type knuckles where you'd be able to bolt on shorter-than-stock steering arms.

[Mark Ashford]

Originally Posted by Jay Tabor

erroneus thinking

If you're going to make open ended and coarse statements like this. Please elaborate.

Even a 4-pint "show bar" made with good materials and bolted to the floor of the truck is better than NO bar in roll over situation.

[Mark Ashford]

Originally Posted by 76-scout-MATT

mark... thanks for the details... still might pull the trigger on a cv shaft... might not...

An actual "CV" (truly, its called a 'double-cardan joint') shaft is not a *requirement* but it is the correct way to finish the project. If you don't plan on a lot of 4-hi activities, not really an issue, or if you don't care about the t-case's input seals.

Pointing the pinion at the t-case however DOES give you the most clearance under the pinon off-road, and the most flexability if you need to adjust or shim things cause something is off. Without the CV equipped drive shaft, it will just vibrate above certain speeds (because the u-joints won't be 'phased')

[76-scout-MATT]

[QUOTE=Mark Ashford;760489]An actual "CV" (truly, its called a 'double-cardan joint') shaft is not a *requirement* but it is the correct way to finish the project. If you don't plan on a lot of 4-hi activities, not really an issue, or if you don't care about the t-case's input seals.

Pointing the pinion at the t-case however DOES give you the most clearance under the pinon off-road, and the most flexability if you need to adjust or shim things cause something is off. Without the CV equipped drive shaft, it will just vibrate above certain speeds (because the u-joints won't be 'phased')[/QUOTE

huh ?????????? i understand kinda... does that mean if i choose to point at the tc that i am endagering t-case input seals only at higher speeds???