cut and turn question

[Bill usn-1]

This may give you a start on the angles.
SOA link

[76-scout-MATT]

thanks bill..... i have a question.... this is a quote from the thread you suggested


Next comes the fun part. You get to beat your scout with a hammer.
I use about a 5 pond maul and the floor jack.
I place the jack under the steering arm and apply pressure. Then I hit the front of the yoke to drive it around to the desired angle.

In my case the knuckle was at -17* and I tuned them to a +5*.

does that mean that your pumkin rotated up 22* from its original position .... and since i am SUA and my perches seem to be the same angle as my pumkin now( just eyeballing it) that they would move in the opposite direction 17* ... this is based on the assumption that you had 0* caster and ended up with +5*

[76-scout-MATT]

also will my old drive shaft work .... thanks

[radar232]

Sounds good man. Don't really know about the spring perches. I really hope all this works out for you! Should be pretty cool! Give us some before and after pics!!!
As far as the drive shafts go. That's kind of a general question... Requires one to assume everything currently under your truck is original equipment and still a guess-work for someone here to answer I imagine. Maybe not though, apparently I thought determining pinion angles was a big mathematical equation...

[76-scout-MATT]

oh man.... did not want to hear that.... mathmatical.... was hoping to just get it close

[76-scout-MATT]

Originally Posted by 76-scout-MATT

oh man.... did not want to hear that.... mathmatical.... was hoping to just get it close

ok more research and i have learned that getting it close will ot be the way to go... as i understand it opposite and opposing angles.... got it.... or straight at the at transfer case but then i need a cv shaft and new yoke for the transfer case...

thanks for the help.....

on another note... could someone point me to a thread that can help with stipping down the axle... looking for a manual but out of stock at all the regular places

[radar232]

Originally Posted by 76-scout-MATT

ok more research and i have learned that getting it close will ot be the way to go... as i understand it opposite and opposing angles.... got it.... or straight at the at transfer case but then i need a cv shaft and new yoke for the transfer case...

thanks for the help.....

on another note... could someone point me to a thread that can help with stipping down the axle... looking for a manual but out of stock at all the regular places

google Dana Axles. Or Dana 44, etc. You can down load the Dana/spicer service manual in a pdf.

[Mark Ashford]

Step #1: Block up your truck (by the axles preferably) to get it to the stance/level you want. If your keeping the suspension exactly they way it is this should be simple, just put jack-stands under the front and rear axles that are the same height so you can take off the tires. Best to do both ends so things don't change do to a slow tire leak or something like that. Plus makes everything solid. Even better would be to support the frame in the front and the front axle separately to that everything stays were it should be as it the truck was just held by the axles. This will take a little work but can be done. This will make it easier to work on the front axle. As you do it and thing about what you need to do, it will make sence. If it was me I'd have (4) identical (or close to) "small" [i.e. 3ton] jack-stands, and (2) "Larger" (6-ton) stands to reach the frame. But you could make another set of 3-tons work.

Step #2: Figure out where you want your pinion pointed. Either try to recreate the "equal but opposite" or point it the t-case and plan on a CV style joint at the t-case (probably a better choice).

Step #3: adjust (with shims) the pinion angle to get what you want. You have two/three routes here. Either just use shims a permanent fix, held in place by the center pin is the better route then clamped with the u-bolts. OR use steel shims (which you should use ether way) and weld them to the perches as a permanent change. OR have the perches modified (mill/grind the cast-in one, cut and re-weld the driver's side). To meet this new angle.

Step #4: Measure the caster created with the perches adjusted, then figure out how many degree's you need to turn them to get the 4-6º your after. It would be helpful to write these as well as an arrow for the direction on the axle tube as a reference.
Step #5: Strip the axle down and drop it off at your guy. If you want to do the grinding your self you can do so, beat the knuckles to were you think you need them, reinstall the axle to check your work, mark everything so you can see if it moves in transport. Check the camber as well to make sure you got everything on strait (you remembered to measure it when you started, right?). Weld, Check, Assemble, Enjoy.


Simple.

This works for SUA or SOA. Just be methodical and check your work with the weight of the truck and your good to go and its pretty sure-fire. You could also to is purely by measuring existing, doing the math and doing everything on the bench, but there is more room for error that way.

[Scottiebell]

I dont understand why you guys are having such a bad time with road manners with the SUA rough country 4". I have it on my 75 Scout 2, no drop pitman with 33's and it drives like a champ. I drive my truck down the freeway with the tip of my index finger at 70-75 miles an hour. Maybe you are both experiencing frame fatigue, and may wanna invest in a straight steer before spending tons of money on a SOA conversion that will most likely NOT fix your crappy road manners. Im not a pro by any means, i just look at the cheapest solutions first, and have never seen any of the scouts that i kick around with have those road/highway issues from a bolt in 4" lift.

My 2 pennies. Have a great day, and i hope you get it sorted out.

[Kris_Lane]

I did a cut and turn on my SUA 4 inch lift truck basicaly the same way Mark Ashford described. Set the pinion angle with shims and then did a cut and turn to adjust the caster. You are looking for about 5 degrees. I wheel my pretty hard and the stock drive shaft is working good. I will say that I wish I would have went spring over and reverse shackle. At the time I was thinking I already have the lift springs in there may as well run them since the truck came with them. Now I wish I had the added clearance and flex of the SOA and R/S. I have aquired a set of stock springs but I am afraid to grind on the axles again because when doing a cut and turn it is hard to avoid removing a small amount of metal front the axle housing tubes. It Maybe ok to grind on again but I am not sure. Just something to think about. I wish you lived closer I would swap you housings straight across.