Kwick Wire Installation Help

[phall925]

So, I have completely rewired my rig with the Kwick Wire Kit. Everything is going pretty well. She starts and runs all the gauges light up. Headlights and horn work. However, The tail lights don't come on when the headlight switch is flipped. (Note all my swtiched are toggle. I have no original switches in my rig).

When the I flip the headlight switch the headlights come on but no rear tail lights. When I turn off the headlights the tail lights come on.

Please send me any ideas. Also I have tested the switch and it is fine


Thanks

Preston

[BWOOD]

Do you still have running lights on the front? How are your signals working?

[phall925]

Running lights in front tested and they work as supposed to. The rear is the problem. I guess I am trying to figure out the issue for the rear only

[BWOOD]

It can't be much to it. You said you have a toggle switch, 2 way ( on and off ). Are all of your lights hooked to this one switch? How did you ground everything?

[Thomas]

Originally Posted by phall925

... The tail lights don't come on when the headlight switch is flipped...

---With so many people saying the HL switch & electrical system is like GM, I just have to ask what HL switch you installed, and did you match it up to the original? Let's just say someone told you a `69 Camaro HL switch would work. There is one less terminal on most of the `69 Ragmaro switches and none of the Camaro switches even cross over to the Scout II switch. Could it be the wire you're expecting to run the tail lights... isn't terminated to the switch? Pull the headlight switch and make sure all wires go to a terminal and if you wired it by the IH diagrams, try returning for exchange, or purchasing AC-Delco's D1590, SMP's DS205 or a cross-referenced switch.

---Taillights are grounded through the body of the light bucket to sheet metal (pfffft). Marker lights are grounded to the frame along with the fuel sending unit and license plate light.

[BWOOD]

Kwik wire harness is set up for basic GM wiring. So, Gm HL switch works perfect. But, you have a toggle switch, I am wondering if that is where your problem might be. I can't stress enough the importance of good grounds. When I did my wiring I ran everything up to a grounding block and hooked it straight to the battery negative.

[phall925]

Well I feel like a total dumb ***** and I am sorry for wasting some of yalls time. I went through all the switches and they were all operating properly and not letting current through in the off position.

Small back ground I have installed LED tail lights

So I start tracing from the back to the front everything is still showing one wire hot while headlights off and one wire dead.

Come to find out the hot wire is actually the turn signal but it is hot on both sides and not blinking.

I then stat to deduce that the flasher is not working because it does not have a load resistor on it yet. Got back to the drawing board realize that my issue is most likely routed in the steering column. Upon messing with the column switches I found that the hazard lights were on and since the load resistor is not installed the lights were not activating the flashing mechanism.

Thanks for you guys prompt help and glad it was a bonehead mistake of mine

[Thomas]

---Glad you got it sorted out and nothing was damaged. So, you're nearly done with this vehicle and ready to take the pooch for a ride? Time to pull another one/two/etc. in so you can keep the knowledge fresh!

Originally Posted by BWOOD

Kwik wire harness is set up for basic GM wiring. So, Gm HL switch works perfect. But, you have a toggle switch, I am wondering if that is where your problem might be. I can't stress enough the importance of good grounds. When I did my wiring I ran everything up to a grounding block and hooked it straight to the battery negative.

---Had no idea how he set up the generic kit, if the headlight block came prewired or if it even came with a switch. Didn't know if he ran everything as was stock like I did when I ordered/installed my custom kit, but I'll take your word for it that any GM switch will work.

---I too have what I call an "isolated" ground system. 10g wire running from LR corner, across the back cap and up the R frame rail. Then across the front cap, through the radiator core support and to the battery (-), then another 10g from a brass stud in center of BH to battery (-). Dash grounds tapped in cab to stud, major engine grounds tapped to stud in engine bay, brass bolts slots near major components such as starter, fuel sender/pump, etc. 100% copper & brass is the only way to go for 8 hours worth of wiring that will last.

[phall925]

Don't know if I am ready for any more restorations but I will keep my skill honed just making sure this thing stay in perfect condition

[Thomas]

Originally Posted by phall925

Don't know if I am ready for any more restorations but I will keep my skill honed just making sure this thing stay in perfect condition

---I'm sure we both understand that there's no such thing as extra, spare or any other form of time other than time itself, but you've spent some good amount of time taking your time on this one and I'm sure you'll be happy.

---Just remember, if you're not "ready" and do get another one... make sure you don't park them too close together an leave them alone for too long.