Scout bucking suddenly?

[Thomas]

-Good day old neighbor. Pop/Cop a squat,

---My guess* is since it's a 2300 and you experienced the problems going uphill, you have some contaminants (could very much be water) in your fuel bowl that when on an incline, were washed toward the jets. If you have a carb screwdriver w/90° at the end (but wait, you have the new-fangled (too much fuel [unless customized] for a 304 7448, so you'd have hex headed bolts), you can back out the bottom carb bowl and insert a small cup, or rag around base of the carb, to catch the fuel. Then remove bowl and screws together so you can poke through (while twisting) the jets with a round toothpick, record the jet size (bet they're in the mid-to-high 60s size, when your altitude being average 340', they should be in the high-40s-to-mid 50s, maybe even high 50s due to AL's humidity), clean/rinse the bowl out. After that, you can dry set the float if need be and reinstall bowl & bolts to torque specs.

---Found a pretty dead on jet calculator for this post, as well as a humidity converter. 1" mercury = 33.86 Hectapascals (hPa), 1% RH = 0.31669 hPa. After you find the barometric pressure for a decent day, blah blah. I'd figure average of 80% humidity year round, barometric pressure is always just under "gonna rain" so set that to around 25, average 340' altitude, find out what standard jets were in a 350cfm holley 2300 from international (53 is what I have recorded). Have fun.

---Power valve should be roughly 1/2 of the vacuum at idle reading, minus two sizes. The scientific/realistic rather than scientific method of tuning the PVC is to drive with vacuum gauge visible and hooked to manifold vacuum, then when "cruising" (momentum gained and pedal set), climb a steep hill and watch the gauge. When you experience lowest vacuum (should be around* half that of idle), add two to your scale and there's your ideal PV. Either way works well enough.

---From what I have pulled out of original carbs (no goobers touched them), 266/304 2300s came with a 4.5, 304 2300s came with a 5.0, stepping those up 1/2 size (I installed a 5.0 high-flow from Barry Grant, but have yet to play/test) would be okay due to using eGas. You'll need to find alcohol-approved power valves from someone but* holley. Even their dual stage power valves are not* alcohol approved. I contacted them recently regarding this and their answer was "we're trying to figure it out". Prior to that, I called in 2000 regardiung "alternative fuels, like acetone additive... alcohol... ", and no matter how much I specified "acetone additive", they said "People who run alcohol generally plug the PVC off, so it's not a concern of ours()". D'OH! Nothing like being in the business of carburetors, but being 10+ years behind the times!!!
---If ever the power valve's condition* is in question, all you have to do is turn the idle mixture screws in all the way and seat them (gently), while the engine is running. The engine should stall if PV is good. Remember, the idle mixture screws should never be set more or less that 1/2 turn different than each other, so screw them in accordingly.

---Since you're in the country cuz, if you travel open roads more frequently, try setting the vacuum advance to full the manifold vacuum rather than ported. If you've got an adult's foot when it comes to the brain's relationship between foot and accelerator, that will undoubtedly be the best place anyway, but city stop-and-go driving with heavy foot needs ported.

---A 350cfm carb for IH 304 should have a 0.097" needle and seat as well.

---You also need the correct base plate gasket, Holley 108-52 or the second choice, the slightly cheaper in cost, but more designed for 500cfm+ carbs, Felpro 60677.

---Idle for the manual transmissions is generally 500-625 RPM. Accelerator Pump Cam set to #1 position. Back the idle screw out, set the lever to pump clearance to 0.008" when throttle is completely closed and then thread the idle speed screw in 1 full turn to open the idle circuits.

---My manual choke always sat best at roughly 9/64" - 11/64". When the carb wanted air, it just actuated the return spring and opened up. You can try that as well. All correct internal parts, idle mixture screws out 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 turns, float set to bottom of threads, idle screw out 1 turn, vacuum advance on manifold, and find tune the choke.

---Electric choke I always set when cold, just barely* closed when cold and adjust when warm for best idle. Their "notches lean-rich" AFAIC don't apply to us, we're lucky to even be in their books anymore. Nobody really cares about us. We even cost money to listen to, because we ask for replacement parts what, maybe once every three-four years? The revenue we bring to them is futile.

---Now, once again; Wave at people outside (looking in), who make big bucks from "refreshing" carbs for IH application.

[scoutboy74]

Dropping the fuel bowl for inspection and clean out is fine. That goes in perfect lockstep with Gary's suggestion to check/replace the fuel filter. I'd really hold off on making any of the drastic changes just suggested. For one thing, this carb was has been allowing the engine to perform quite well for the most part. The problem in discussion just appeared recently, so there's no need to completely reinvent the wheel.

The carb in question is a list 7448 aftermarket 2300, not an OEM 2300. The cfm rating of the OEM carbs was less than 350 cfm. Most commonly in the neighborhood of 275, not that it really matters in this case. I don't know why we're even discussing cfm's and drastically reducing the jet size of an aftermarket carb that with size 61 jets is already set up to operate from sea level to 3000 feet above. If anything, he may find that he needs to go up a jet size or two in order to compensate for egas. The aftermarket carbs are calibrated completely differently than the OE versions are. When it comes to jet sizing, what works in one does not directly apply to what works in the other.

In a nutshell, this just seems like another in a long line of baffling with BS, which has become par for the course so many times over I've lost count.

[Gary Billings]

Thomas, that's a lot of words just to say "make sure your carb is adjusted & tuned correctly".

The OP said the truck was running fine before it sat for two weeks. So, the carb is probably fine.

Sorry Jay, your suggestion that water just sits in the carb and when you go up hill it goes into the jets is pretty far off base. There's a lot of fluid movement & agitation in the fuel tank & carburetor so any water is going to be pretty well mixed in with the rest of the gas. The only time I could see water being a problem is you have a few gallons of in the tank, it's sat a while so all the gas is on top, the water is in the bottom and that's what the fuel pump is sucking up.

My guess is that during that 2 weeks, something settled in the tank and got sucked up either into the fuel filter or into the fuel sock at the end of the pickup tube.

grimlock97, start with the easy stuff like adjusting the timing & points first and if that doesn't fix it check your fuel supply. In the end, please post up what you find out

-Gary

[Thomas]

Originally Posted by Gary Billings

... Thomas, that's a lot of words just to say "make sure your carb is adjusted & tuned correctly".

The OP said the truck was running fine before it sat for two weeks. So, the carb is probably fine...

---Yeah, but you know how it goes with saying "properly adjusted & tuned"... which takes it to questioning the OP if he/she knows how* to properly tune, and leads me down the path of trying to make the post as full of "tech talk" as possible. Oftentimes the person who thinks it's right has never heard the two L4s put together to make a V8 and think the higher idle, advanced timing + this & that is what it's supposed to "sound" like. To the unknowing, good can oftentimes be improved on.

---As for water in the fuel, sure. Water sits at the bottom and always washes toward the jets when launching or climbing grades on a 2300, which is why my jet set of jet extensions will be L-shaped for a sort of snorkeling effect. . Just like water sits at the bottom of oil. If this hasn't been seen in a clear lawnmower tank, or gas can that has sat on the ground, I'll be sure to snap a pic if it ever makes it to my Farmall/Zenith sediment bowl filter before my carb. I say "if it ever" because I have a Mallory sediment filter before the pump as well. If* ever found, it'll most likely be due to this eGas or condensation in/from the carb itself and not found at my Zenith. Happens all the time, especially in humid areas like 'Bama.

[grimlock97]

I'm finally getting to fool with it today, I'm going to retard the timing and go from there, thanks for all the help, I'll let u know how it turns out

[Jay Tabor]

air has moisture in it, all the time everywhere.
every fuel bowl/tnk/system will have some moisture/water in it.
once youve pulled plenty fuel bowls off- youll see for yourself.
i know most of you are in denial..
air in the gas tank condensates and precipitates, and drips into the tank and condenses in the bottom.
thats a continual process.

and its irrelevant how often it happens, or how fast.....
ITS THE AMOUNT OF WATER IN THE CARB that is causing his problem.

we have a habit of filling airplane gas tanks after the days flight, so that LESSENS/ DOESNT ELIMINATE, the amount of water found in the fuel out of suspension,
{and av gas is a drier fuel to begin with.]
each day at 8 am draining 2+ ounces of fuel minimum, from each wing and gascolator and fuel filter THERE WILL BE MOISTURE IN THE SAMPLES.

THATS 12 HOUR INTERVAL.
in this case the water in the tank has migrated to the carb, and as the fuel and water flows back [the low downhill side of bowl] to the metering block WHERE THE JETS ARE, the water which is heavier than the gas gathers at the jets,
[why? because the jets are located at the bottom of the metering block]
and gets sucked/flows into the jets and thats a good cause for the stumbling the op states.

it doesnt matter how long it took [with illogical magic reasoning] for the water to condense in his fuel tanks, ITS THERE, AND GROWS IN VOLUMNE DAILY, and it got pumped up to the carb, and there it is causing trouble . .


and just go read about relative humidity, and learn something usefull,
adaq

[grimlock97]

okay guys, now there's something really screwy going on, now the scout won't crank at all, it tries to start, as in it fires but will not stay running at all, it's hard to explain, i uploaded this video to youtube, let me know if you can get to it to see what i'm talking about.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VP9uD...VlMIY3WlV2Wx4t

[Gary Billings]

How far did you retard the timing? Did you use a timing light? As points wear down (assuming you have points), the timing becomes retarded. Try advancing it a little bit or adjusting the points.

-Gary

[scoutboy74]

Just so we're on the same page terminology-wise, the clip shows that the engine is cranking over just fine via the starter motor. It even sounds like its trying to fire, but not well enough to run. Gary's question about the timing is on point. Did you retard it? Maybe too much? Can you see any fuel squirting when you look down into the carb and work the throttle by hand?

[grimlock97]

I did not touch the timing prior to the clip, I went to crank it just to let it warm up so I could do the adjustments and that's what it did in the clip, it does sound like it wants to run but won't, I need to look in the throat to see if fuel is squirting by it kinda seems like the fuel pump maybe but I'm really just guessing on that,