Timing Chain or Timing Gears

[Ken_in_Ok]

OK got another question, this is for a 1973 1210 w/ SV345, do the 345's use a Timing Chain or just Timing Gears? All of the source's and parts stores I've looked at show Gears and no chain, my dad is thinking that the 1210 I'm trying to get has jumped time but I think if it did and has Gears wouldn't it shear a tooth off of one of the gears?

Thanks for any help!

[64dumptruck]

It has gears.

Is the distributor clamp tight, and are you timing off the 8th cylinder?

[Ken_in_Ok]

No, don't have the truck yet, the 1210 was my late grandfather's and when he died my uncle got it, last time it ran(when I was 3(I'm 18 now) it backfired and caught on fire a little, making my dad think that it jumped time.

I'm thinking that the 2300 needs rebuilt, it needs new points, condenser, wires, plugs, cap and rotor, and then distributor re-stabbed to ensure that it is on TDC on #8 cylinder.

I have to go to my uncle's ranch about 150 miles away w/ a trailer to get it sometime this month or next month so when/if I get it I'll start a build thread on it.

[spf150]

Could have busted a tooth on the distributor drive gear.

Pop the distributor cap off and place the engine at #8 TDC. Mark the location of the ignition rotor and crank with a wrench on the harmonic balancer. Note the amount of movement the crank is turned VS the amount of movement you see at the ignition rotor. Work the crank in both directions until you see movement as that will show you the worst of it.

Hopefully it's something simple

[Ken_in_Ok]

I hope it is too, I'd really love to get it back on the road!

I was under the assumption that the Harmonic Balancer(Vibrator Damper) was only to be turned clockwise and never counter-clockwise?

How much play am I looking for? Rotor moving every turn of the crank?

[tdc]

Originally Posted by Ken_in_Ok

I'm thinking that the 2300 needs rebuilt, it needs new points, condenser, wires, plugs, cap and rotor, and then distributor re-stabbed to ensure that it is on TDC on #8 cylinder.
.

Sounds like you have a good working knowledge of what's wrong.
You don't have to pull the distributor.
An easy test would be to bump the starter around to where the timing marks line up, pop the cap and look at the rotor in relation to the the #8 plug wire.
If it's good, set the points, new plugs, wires and time it. (rebuild carb. first)

[Ken_in_Ok]

Ok, thanks for that info and the pic that helped a bunch! Should I replace the points or re-use the old one's until I get it running, I'm thinking that they played a factor in the way it was running before it was parked.

[sully0812]

Originally Posted by Ken_in_Ok

Ok, thanks for that info and the pic that helped a bunch! Should I replace the points or re-use the old one's until I get it running, I'm thinking that they played a factor in the way it was running before it was parked.

Is the last time it ran was 15 years ago, I'd consider replacing the points out of principle.

[Ken_in_Ok]

I'll do that too, was going to replace all ignition components(Plugs, etc) anyway since it has sat for so long.

Thanks for all the help guys!

[djadjective]

I'd also recommend reading up in the Knowledge Base on how to pre-oil that engine since it has sat so many years. That way you'll save your bearings once you get the electrical/fuel worked out.