Hot Start Issues AGAIN??

[Bill Bennett]

That is really a nasty looking fuel bowl!! Definately not original to the rest of the carb. I wonder if the carb was parts carb? I run a similar carb with the hot air choke but the idle mix adjustments are on the side of the metering body - not on the throttle body. The 'dashpot' on the driver side doesn't look like it is functional.

[Houston]

scoutboy74, that could be, it looks different that the hot air choke I have had on my previous scouts, and mightly similar to the electric choke on modern edlebrock 14** series carbs.

[scoutboy74]

I dunno Houston. I don't see any provision for electrical connections on that thermal cap, but I do see the hot air tube connected. Would be easy to convert it to an electric with a Holley kit, but if the hot air plumbing is still functional there's not much to be gained by the conversion.

[Thomas]

-Oh lordy lordy,

---It's way too hard to type on a cell, so I will refrain from lengthy explainations about computer lingo/etiquette and how an asterisk is used to stress* a word and screaming is done in all upper case. Hence why most screamers are overlooked. However, the issue here I believe is 100% aspiration ... I mean fuel, not the promising will to learn.

---It is true that the fuel bowl is incorrect. The metering plate's numbers don't matc either but that doesn't mean it is incorrect because sometimes* they don't. You'll have to search the board for that list number or even contact someone like M. Mayben (who may have been recording part numbers for the past few years) & there's a real slim possibility that Holley will know what metering plate is correct. Yes, all the stamped numerals mean something, no, even though the 2300 has been my.carb, my favorite, of choice for some 20+ years (on many makes), I don't have a list of part numbers.

---Your Base Plate gasket is correct, though I would suggest a new one. Look at post # 10 of the Useful Part Number Thread for "alcohol"-rated parts you should add when you rebuild. You will also need the correct Main Body Gasket for that particular Throttle Plate... Seen it before and it's the troublesome one that is near impossible to obtain. When you purchase the rebuild kit (should be 3-888), you will need to post a clear pic of all gaskets so you can be shown which Main Body Gasket to use. Also, no matter who tells you to tighten the screws "until they're about to strip", ignore & discard the info. Contact Holley and ask them for the torque specs & follow them. All overtightening will do is distort and eventually destroy your invaluable carb.

---There are torque specs and sequence for mounting the carb as well. Follow them and not only will you not* damage (crack or warp) the Throttle Plate, but you'll be able to reuse the Base Plate gasket more than once... LOL. Holley will be able to tell you what size jets, power valve, needle & seat and pump discharge nozzle came stock in that Carb as well.

---Choke is set when cold. Loosen the screws, close choke, open choke, close choke, etc.,etc., until it is just* closed, with as little spring tension as possible, keeping it closed. When it heats up, it will open. Needs to be closed when cold. When warm, if not completely open, it will* open more when needed, when carb intake requests it do so, hence the direction & operation of the visible* choke spring on the end of the shaft.

---It is my belief that the problem begins with mis-matched parts and vacuum leaks.

[NC Scout]

Ok, update. Sorry it took so long.

I removed the carb, rebuilt, and added a new base gasket. Also the original bowl wasn't used because fuel inlet threads were fubbed real bad and stripped. I used some JB weld on the inlet connector and tapped the threads as good as possible, its never coming off now. After the rebuild, it did the same thing as far as hard warm start until I adjusted the float level correctly which couldn't be done before because there was no window.

Now, cold starts take a few more cranks than before, but still starts up fine with no smoke. The choke closes perfectly when cold and opens when warm. Warm starts are almost immediate with no smoke. Looks like the fuel was overflowing the bowl into the throat and flooding. I did change the oil and didn't find any fuel smell or thinning so all seems fine.

Thanks for all the input.

Next I need to pull the engine and change seals, front and back leak and the bottom of the truck is oily and nasty. Who in the Raleigh area wants to help with that???

[sdowney717]

Good, glad you fixed it.
When you said the carb felt cool, I was thinking when gas evaporates it cools down what it evaporates away from, so I was wondering if a carb might feel cool yet still have been hot enough to boil out the fuel.

On my 392's, I have blocked off the exhaust rise passage into the intake manifold.
I also have a 3/4 inch plywood spacer under the carb. I made it myself out of nice piece of finishing ply coated with some epoxy. It is an open spacer that converts spreadbore to squarebore.
Running quadrajet. I found 3/4 is as small as you can go with that and have the secondaries not jam. And I sealed the ply to the intake with rtv red gasket maker and for the carb does not even need a gasket. Perfect seal, perfect vacuum.
And I notice now when the motor is running, the carb feels cold and the intake feels hot. Not cold enough for carb icing to occur.

[Thomas]

---Glad to hear you got it all sorted out. Welcome the the 2300 club and since you're new, don't let anyone tell you the carb is junk (in any form of the word), don't mix-match parts (always check casted numbers, and perform a detailed comparison, before swapping) and don't believe there is a better carb out there than a modular. Get to know your carb and you might possibly even decide to create a decal for your window, of Calvin whizzing on TBI/EFI.

[NC Scout]

Thomas, I am a efi guy also, but agree that when tuned, this is an excellent carb. I am very impressed with the ease of adjustment and simplicity of the design.

I previously transplanted a Ford Zetek 2.0 with factory EFI into a VW based dune buggy because of constant carb issues. That thing weighed 1150 lbs and would do a burn out in third easy. It had a Suzuki GXR1000 exhaust and sounded awesome. I loved it with the stock Ford FI. Heres a pic. It wouldnt hold all three kids and the wife so I sold it. Sold it with the Zetec transplant for $9500.