1971 800B V8 build. The last chapter!

[BioTex]

Thanks NCTOM. As for the frame pull, how about this:

I put a chain from corner to corner on the longer side. You know those boomers that you tighten chains with when hauling a load? Well, I have a ratcheting set that works like a turnbuckle. If I hook it up to the chains, in the center of the frame, and ratchet it tight, I should be able to pull a 1/4" huh? Might have to go 3/4" to account for the springiness, mnaybe even more, but will that hurt the frame?

Edit: Added picture to help explain.

[Gary Billings]

Originally Posted by BioTex

Thanks NCTOM. As for the frame pull, how about this:

I put a chain from corner to corner on the longer side. You know those boomers that you tighten chains with when hauling a load? Well, I have a ratcheting set that works like a turnbuckle. If I hook it up to the chains, in the center of the frame, and ratchet it tight, I should be able to pull a 1/4" huh? Might have to go 3/4" to account for the springiness, mnaybe even more, but will that hurt the frame?

Yeah, that's what I was getting at. I would do it.

I wouldn't think it would hurt the frame. I would leave the rear crossmember in. It's going to move in the path of least resistance, which you would think would be back to where it was. Give it a try, keep an eye on things so you don't screw it all up and see how it goes.

-Gary

[BioTex]

Originally Posted by Gary Billings

Or, just take it to a frame shop. I can't imagine it would cost too much to straighten out a bare frame. Now would be the time to do it.

-Gary

There isn't a frame shop anywhere in my area. Cost more to get there than the actual work. I wish sometimes I lived in a normal part of the country...

[BioTex]

Originally Posted by Gary Billings

Yeah, that's what I was getting at. I would do it.

I wouldn't think it would hurt the frame. I would leave the rear crossmember in. It's going to move in the path of least resistance, which you would think would be back to where it was. Give it a try, keep an eye on things so you don't screw it all up and see how it goes.

-Gary

Good idea to leave the rear cross member in. That will box the back section, and cause the front only to move. Great idea. Thanks...

[Gary Billings]

Originally Posted by BioTex

Good idea to leave the rear cross member in. That will box the back section, and cause the front only to move. Great idea. Thanks...

No, you have the theory wrong. The only purpose of leaving the rear crossmember in is to keep the one frame rail from pinching in towards the middle as you tighten down the load binder.

Make sure the threads on the load binder are greased up good.

I would also wrap another chain around the frame tightly in the middle and run the load binder through it, keeping the pulling power down lower so there is less tendency for the frame to want to buckle in the middle or lift the ends up. Put the force where it needs to be. This all makes sense in my head, hopefully I'm explaining it ok.

-Gary

[BioTex]

Originally Posted by Gary Billings

No, you have the theory wrong. The only purpose of leaving the rear crossmember in is to keep the one frame rail from pinching in towards the middle as you tighten down the load binder.

-Gary

I don't understand, but hey, like I said, I'm a novice at frame geometry. I was thinking of pulling from the welded in crossmember that is forward of the axle, so that is where we are different in our theory I believe. If I hooked the chain to the actual end of the frame rail, then yes I see your point. I think...

[Gary Billings]

Originally Posted by BioTex

I don't understand, but hey, like I said, I'm a novice at frame geometry. I was thinking of pulling from the welded in crossmember that is forward of the axle, so that is where we are different in our theory I believe. If I hooked the chain to the actual end of the frame rail, then yes I see your point. I think...

You got it... front crossmember to the crossmember over the rear axle...that'll work too.

-Gary

[BioTex]

Called to see why my Superlift springs haven't shipped yet, and the vendor told me they were on back order for another Month. I cancelled my order because they didn't bother to tell me this.

Now i'm thinking of just running the original springs, and get the truck running. Once it is running, I can save up and swap in the SII axles.

[Comanche Scott]

Great idea!
It will give you a chance to have some fun. And when you put in the Scout-II axles, you'll really enjoy the turning radius, and braking improvement.

[BioTex]

I spent the day cleaning up the frame. I was able to press out all four of the spring bushings with the help of a ball joint press. Man were those suckers in there.

Although I have some NOS bushings, I'm going to order some new urethane ones.

I checked the frame over real good for any cracks, and only found one. I ground it down with a "V" and welded it back up. I had to straighten out a couple of brackets that had been bent from hitting rock I suppose, but no big deal really.

Then I ground off all the welding splatter from the factory. Figure it will look a lot better.
As soon as the POR-15 comes in, I will seal the frame. Then the reassembly!