IAC is driving me nuts

[JeepsAndGuns]

Alright, I will give it a try tomorrow (if I dont get rained out)
I already have the asdu bin, but I will download the asdw one you have and copy my tables into it. I also have a couple other manual bins I might try too.
I will make me up a couple tonight and load them up to the emulator tomorrow.

Is this throttle follwer setting you speak of, something in the bin you can change?

[Bill usn-1]

Manuals normally have a longer throttle follower to keep the rpm from dropping between shifts.

Yes the throttle follower settings are in the bin.
But like I said I doubt it's the throttle follower that is causing the issue.

You should load up the stock bin first and see how it does before you make any changes or copy anything over from your bin.
If it works better then copy one thing at a time and recheck.
You may want to just put it on a chip and try it without the emulator.
Or just install the factory chip.

You need to find the cause of the problem first and not just look for things to change in the bin to fix it.
You know they didn't do that from the factory so if yours still does it with the factory bin then you have to look elsewhere.

[Bill usn-1]

Something else to keep in mind is the engine temp.
Where is the sensor located and what is it reading in the data log.
If it's cool then the system will be adding IAC counts IAW the IAC vs temp table.

[JeepsAndGuns]

Alright, I tried a couple diffrent bins. I first ran on my current bin till I got up to temp. I then loaded up the asdw bin I got from you. I copied over my fuel and timing map, turned off the egr, and set my base timing. Warm start idle was still the same, but driving had gotten 5 times as bad. Before, if I let it set and come back to idle before I drove off, it would for the most part be normal. But with this bin, it would hold itself wide open once I started driving. Rpm's wouldnt drop hardly any in between shifts, and compression braking was zero. Only as you came to a stop and was there for about a second, would it drop from about 1200-1300 down to idle almost instantly. So with as fast as it dropped doing that, I dont think its slow or sticking.
I tried another manual bin I had, but once I started it, it went to 1100 rpm and stayed there, it never dropped to idle. So I didnt even bother driving on that bin.
I then put my current (work in progress) bin back in and did a datalog. I will attach below.
Here is a video I took using my phone showing how it does during warm starts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLDABgeaBk0

My phones mic doesnt get along well with my exhaust, it sounds funky on the vid. Also ignore the shaking halfway through, I had my arm on the door and once I noticed I was shaking the camera I took it off. But that shows how long it takes to go to idle.

Later on I decided to do some emulation and do some more work to my timing table. I fooled around with that for a while and I just kept thinking back to that setting called "position after motor reset vs barometric" under iac. So curiosity killed the cat. I tried dropping them a tiny bit and didnt see much diffrence, I dropped them an little more and still didnt see much diffrence. I then got mad and just set them all to zero. I then got this result:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t52OxtPm44I

That is more like its supposed to be. Still a tiny bit slow to drop all the way down, but way better than it was. I took it for a short drive and there seems to be no ill effects. I however do not know if this is gonna effect cold start and idle when cold. I will find that out in the morning.

[Bill usn-1]

So I guess I didn't need to type all this?
As long as your happy with it.

You should load up the stock bin first and see how it does before you make any changes or copy anything over from your bin.
If it works better then copy one thing at a time and recheck.
You may want to just put it on a chip and try it without the emulator.
Or just install the factory chip.

You need to find the cause of the problem first and not just look for things to change in the bin to fix it.
You know they didn't do that from the factory so if yours still does it with the factory bin then you have to look elsewhere.

[JeepsAndGuns]

Well, first you posted this.

Originally Posted by Bill usn-1

You may want to grab the ASDU(Auto) or ASDW(man) bin and just copy your fuel tables into it and give it a try.
The throttle follower settings have changed thru different bins and that affects the rate it opens and closes.
But your seems to be much slower then a throttle follower setting.

So thats what I tried first. My engine ran like pure poop with the stock chevy timing tables, so I copied my fuel and timing tables into those bins. I did not read the post you quoted above untill right before I made my last post. So I had already tired the other bins, made the datalog, and made the changes to my current bin and got a good result.
When I did a cold start this morning it seems to have made no effect on it. It still started right up and droped to idle like its supposed to do. I drove into town to pick up a few items at the store and warm start is like its supposed to be.