2-4 wheel drive, rear shackle flip?

[Thomas]

---I would be inclined to think that if you reversed the shackles in the read, you'd experience the same handling issues that cause people to reverse front shackles on a Scout II. If the shackles are toward the rear now, it is supposed* to be the most "comfortable" location.

---If all you want is extra capacity, then I would suggest air bags. They make kits that mount by themselves to framing and replace shocks, they make kits that mount inside coil springs, they make kits that contain a shock inside the bag (2000 era Cadillac Sevilles and such have them standard) and they make them that mount between axle and frame.

---However, if the springs are old and the reason you're thinking of fabrication is because the tension is lower than you would prefer, I'd replace them because they'll do nothing more than cause other components to wear faster.

---How much higher would the rear be? Too high for a 2" extended H-type shackle and a sway bar like up front of a Scout II? Add nitrogen-charged shocks, remote reservoirs for the additional gas (huge advantage with nitrogen) and even that panhard rod... with quick disconnects for when you feel like towing the sled.

Originally Posted by 76 xlc

Spring under w/ lift springs minimizes wrap, IMHO.

Maybe some hidden traction bars, or heimed link from pumpkin to chassis?

---Just an FYI, it's "Cradled springs" and the main task of a Panhard Rod is to keep the axle centered; Anything more would be a bonus function, not what it was designed for. It would keep the rear from swaying as it would raise and lower the body rather than allow the axle to sway side to side. It would keep the axle centered under the truck when normal driving, high speed turns, climbing, etc., giving it better traction and COG. Not too sue how it would act during a pulling event though... could be too stressful. Not something you could install without engineering reinforcement. Just set and forget? If it was done for additional control on a daily driver sure.

-------------------------------------------
---Superwinch winches on sale over at Amazon. Roughly 50% off & free shipping. Not completely OT 'cause it came to mind thinking about "sway bars". I saw a few universal sway bar link kits on sale there the other day, prior to the Independence Day sale that's going on there now.

[76 xlc]

Originally Posted by Thomas

Panhard Rod

Not a Panhard, but an adjustable heim'ed link from pumpkin to chassis center, running parallel to wheelbase, frame rails, prevents pinion angle change and minimizes spring wrap, without sacrificing travel, if engineered correctly.

Works in Baja and Barstow, on trucks and bobtails.

Have also seen A-link versions, mounted to each frame rail.

[IH64Scout]

Thomas, not reverse shackle, but a "flip" on the rear. Taking the hanger where the spring is above it, knocking out thee rivets, then putting it on "up side down".

Not going for extra weight hauling, just trying to level it after I add the 60 up front, the helpers are riding the frame pads b/c someone adder a pile of spacers between the main and helper pack, I will prob add a leaf and address the helper height issue.

-Jon

[Tom Mandera]

How are your rear springs setup now?

There were stock trucks with 4" blocks, and stock trucks with no blocks, and everything in between.

I have seen them with all sorts of rear spring setups, and I *think* I've even seen the main spring SUA with the overloads SOA.

This one is a 74 200 4x4, with no overloads.




It's just a rear frame section now, and was used to mock up my gooseneck hitch. It has the 74/75 wide stance spring hangers.



Shackles are compression style, spring below shackle mount.


OTOH, my 74 Travelette has the older narrow spring spacing (for duals) and as a 2wd coil-spring front, it sports the RA-15 rear and a TENSION shackle (spring above eye).






This one is my 74 100 4x4.


I don't have anything handy of the springs, but it uses the wide spacing and I *think* it might have the springs SUA.

In my case, when I get around to straight-axling the front of my Travelette, I plan to just block the rear to match.

I'd rather keep the tension shackle.

I will lower the bump stops the same amount, which will actually help me out a bit, since I can't turn over my turn-over gooseneck ball - the diff hits the ball.

[Tom Mandera]

Originally Posted by IH64Scout

Thomas, not reverse shackle, but a "flip" on the rear. Taking the hanger where the spring is above it, knocking out thee rivets, then putting it on "up side down".

Not going for extra weight hauling, just trying to level it after I add the 60 up front, the helpers are riding the frame pads b/c someone adder a pile of spacers between the main and helper pack, I will prob add a leaf and address the helper height issue.

-Jon

Those leaf-spring spacers are likely factory.

I don't have any pictures handy, but it was part of how the springs were setup.

I have seen short spacers, like my 74 200 T'ette, and tall ones, like a set of springs I was going to use on my Travelall but didn't.

The spacers look like short leaf springs sandwiched between the overload and the main pack.

AFAIK, all 69-73 trucks have the tension shackle, while most 74-75s have the outboard springs and compression shackles.

[Tom Mandera]

Originally Posted by IH64Scout

Oh and another thing to ask, will the stock draglink reach the factory dodge one that's on the knuckle? I was thinking of doing high steer like I did on the scout but the pitman arm on the truck is push pull front to back....

-Jon

I suspect you'll need to build a custom draglink, if for no other reason than to adapt the stock IH pitman arm to the stock Dodge knuckle hole, but likely also because of a change in length or other geometry.

My truck is an A-arm truck, with a left-right swing on the steering box, and I keep considering doing cross-over, vs swapping on the 4x4 box I have that would make it push/pull..

[IH64Scout]

you can see in the pics, my shackles point up, and the helper rides all the time. there's no block between the springs and axle. i figured i'd have to go custom steering, thought i'd ask first.

-Jon

[Gary Billings]

If you use Chevy spring hangers from a one ton (I used ones from 1985 truck), they sit lower in the back and you will gain a little bit of lift. No need to do a shackle flip.

-Gary

[Tom Mandera]

Originally Posted by IH64Scout

you can see in the pics, my shackles point up, and the helper rides all the time. there's no block between the springs and axle. i figured i'd have to go custom steering, thought i'd ask first.

-Jon

Going from a drop-beam front to a Dana 60 may not be a big change in altitude.

I'd be tempted to just throw a 2-3" block in there and call it good.

There's a lot of arch in your overload spring - I wonder if it's a heavy rate, or rather "light"?

You could certainly take a spacer or two out to lower the overload a little, but be careful - you may end up with a "slap" or "springy/buckboard" ride when you go over a slight bump and the not-always-engaged over-load is always clanging into action with each pot-hole.

[Afireinside2285]

Originally Posted by Tom Mandera

Going from a drop-beam front to a Dana 60 may not be a big change in altitude.

I'd be tempted to just throw a 2-3" block in there and call it good.

There's a lot of arch in your overload spring - I wonder if it's a heavy rate, or rather "light"?

You could certainly take a spacer or two out to lower the overload a little, but be careful - you may end up with a "slap" or "springy/buckboard" ride when you go over a slight bump and the not-always-engaged over-load is always clanging into action with each pot-hole.

I was thinking the same thing and the second leaf down in the overloads has a different taper then the rest of the springs. Looks like someone decided to make there own set,which may or may not be a good thing.