light switch help

[BigBamaScoutii]

I didn't really look in the search section cause I don't really know how to explain it. Ok when I have the light switch on and turn the knob my amp gage goes crazy like a hot wire is touching. I have a burn wire that goes to a side marker light I ended up pulling it out but I keep poping fuses. Did you think my light switch is bad or a wire is hidding I haven't seen. My electrical experience is very small. Thanks hope I explained it clearly

[GregF]

Rotating the knob adjusts a rheostat that controls voltage to the dash lights, not only the gauges but the lights for your wipers, heater controls etc. There is several wires running inside the dash for them and any of them could be pinched or cut.

[BigBamaScoutii]

Yea I lost all my dash lights excepth the brake and 4 wheel light. I'm kinda lost I pulled the dash apart lookin at the wires and it all looked good. I don't know if the reostat could be bad and causing it to jump something.

[Thomas]

---Back right (driver's point of view) side of the cargo area:
-Three wires run from the bulkhead connector, down the inside of the frame rail, through a hole in the bed rail, seal and Traveltop and up the side of the T'top (alongside the Liftgate) over the Liftgate and to a switch that operates the Cargo Light, or straight down the Roof Channel for the Done Light. Possible one of those is scuffed and grounding out on the frame or a switch is bad for one or both of the mentioned lights.

---Another possibility... How's the horn working? Horn and dome light are on the same switch.

---How are the Courtesy Lamps that operate off the Door Jamb Switches. Those too run off the same circuit.

---If you think it is a (+) short, one side of the fuse panel is (+) and the other side is component. When you pull the fuse, only one side should have any* power. After pulling a fuse, use a digital Voltmeter on 20V (anything higher than 12V) and probe a good ground with the black probe and each side of where the fuse plugs in. One side should be battery voltage and the other side should be completely dead. If you get anything from the other side you have found the culprit or part of the promblem.

---Where you at in Bama? Being down by Dothan, I can't help too much when it comes to personal visits... at least not right now. Mike T. is or was over in Mobile. He's about half the distance and who knows, maybe he plans to be out that way sometime soon.

---Another possibility would be my worse fear. Inside where the radio mounts you might be able to see it... If you can't see it, disconnect the battery and feel for it. There's actually two. If heater fuse gets hot when used or heater switch itself, or if one or none of the heater switch positions doesn't work (usually low):
(Click for larger image)
... except the cover portion (female) will be a clear-white.

---One is for the Instrument Panel Feed (lighting) and the other is Battery Feed. They are Junction Blocks.

---Running in a harness that can be visible from the radio mounting hole, are many high load wires. They've been there for 30+ years. They carry a large current and have been known to melt the insulation and in turn, melt the insulation of the wires that run in the harness with them. Most often the wires for the rear lighting coming from the column. Sometimes the offending wires are found hovering over the Heater Controls' Bracket that holds the cables. In that harness you will also find the Ammeter wires for the Starter & Alternator as well. Lots of warmth for mice as well as sweet smelling insulation and if hovering over the heater controls, a possibility for the wires to get scuffed by operating the controls.

---Feel around even if you see bad wires. Separate wires with your fingers and make sure none are stuck together. If they are, you found what will at least end the life of your truck if a fire starts. You cannot put out a fire effectively if you cannot get the fire in "line of sight". That is impossible to do if the fire is behind the dash, so one small fire extinguisher that may stand a chance of putting out almost any fire, won't do squat and you will just watch it burn from afar as you hear the sirens coming from a place known as too late.

---Hope not, but ya gotta get in there and really look around. Dash isn't too hard to pull, biggest concern is disconnecting the defroster duct hoses so you don't damage the fragile, irreplaceable clips that hold the ducts to the dash.

[BigBamaScoutii]

Thanks for the replys. So my little light problem is bigger then I thought. I live in ashford outside dothan. My scout is gettin the tranny rebuilt I should get it back today and I'm gona pull the dash and have a look.

[BigBamaScoutii]

Just a update I found the problem. It was the dome light wire it had a scrape on it where it would rub on the metal. I replaced the wire and all dash lights work. Now if I can get the clock workin. Thanks guys for the help

[Thomas]

-Sweet,

---I posted a long time ago about a Ford Taurus clock that will fit the hole with no modifications. There was a write-up created by someone else on the board later, and while our years are conflicting, either style of light will work. I guess the only difference is that the one I posted about has a "backlight" of sort, that shows the clock dimly until the headlights are activated.

[BigBamaScoutii]

I'm gonna have to search that. That's a good idea, and a backlight that has my attention. Thanks for all the help.