67 1300 Brake Lines

[tecster]

So I've gone ahead and invested in all new shoes, hardware and wheel cylinders for my 67 1300, I'm taking no chance of not being able to stop - I've also gone so far as I will be replacing the master cylinder, so I bring up the question - fittings and flares.

I've done brake line plumbing myself, but I have yet to actually completely re do brake lines...so I ask the experts. What flare should I use? I was planning on doing the ISO Bubble Flare, also what fittings need to be used as far as getting them into the wheel cylinder and master?

Realistically, I am only going to need fittings for master cylinder and wheel cylinder no? Please enlighten me! Thanks!

[Jeff Jamison]

Factory,and what you got as replacement should be a double flare,NOT BUBBLE,
Jeff

[tecster]

Originally Posted by Jeff Jamison

Factory,and what you got as replacement should be a double flare,NOT BUBBLE,
Jeff

What dealer is going to have factory brake lines for my truck....

[Jim Grammer]

If your truck is '67 *production*, it has a dual circuit brake system per the FMVSA. '67 was the phase in year for dual circuit. In that case you (should)have a junction block with a differential pressure switch. 2 lines to the junction block, then lines front and rear.

If your truck is earlier production and single circuit, strongly consider updating to a dual circuit master. You'll need a junction block or combination valve(make sure it's drum/drum) along with the new lines.

Don't fidget about with ISO flares. All your brake parts accept standard SAE double flares. Tools to do those correctly and conveniently are not cheap, but the material ain't bad. Full rolls of Bundy tubing can be had from Summit Racing along with the fittings.

There are a number of suppliers(Classic Tube comes to mind) that will gladly take your money for a pattern made set of lines(they'll work from your sketch if need be). Regular. stainless, even polished if you want to bring the spendy. Just look in the back of a Street Rodder for lots of options.

[tecster]

hmmm I'll have to look a little closer at this brake situation, hopefully I can just clean and reuse that brake junction then...

What does the brake junction do? I mean - can I just use proportioning valves?

I guess I'm just confused as far as this distribution block goes - I google it and all I seem to get is stuff for mustangs and such....

[Doc Stewart]

That brake junction block simply offers a passage between the front and rear circuitsw with a piston blocking that passage. When the pressure becomes different between the circuits, the piston moves and sets a switch activating the brake idiot light on the dash. It is not a proportioning valve. With drums on all four corners, a proportioning valve is not necessary. Yes, it is reusable.

If you have minimal mechanical skills, bending and flaring brake lines is not difficult. The copper/nickle stuff from Summit [and others] is easy to use and is a permanent replacement as it does not rust.

[tecster]

Originally Posted by Doc Stewart

That brake junction block simply offers a passage between the front and rear circuitsw with a piston blocking that passage. When the pressure becomes different between the circuits, the piston moves and sets a switch activating the brake idiot light on the dash. It is not a proportioning valve. With drums on all four corners, a proportioning valve is not necessary. Yes, it is reusable.

If you have minimal mechanical skills, bending and flaring brake lines is not difficult. The copper/nickle stuff from Summit [and others] is easy to use and is a permanent replacement as it does not rust.

I'm going to go with the Napa pre-flared lines, I'm going to bend them myself. I've been googling and googling for a line diagram to see how the lines incorperate the junction block. This is how I think the system has to go...please correct me?

2 Lines off the MC to the Junction Block, one line off the block to a T fitting n the rear, then 2 shorter hard lines to soft lines which link into the drum. Same with the front.

[OhioBoy]

I got my stuff from these guys- excellent company to deal with and they'll rent you a good flaring tool for not much. Bending my own lines wasn't that hard.

http://store.fedhillusa.com/

I used my old lines as patterns. You should get a shop manual from Binder Books- worth every penny.

http://www.binderbooks.com/

[tecster]

Originally Posted by OhioBoy

I got my stuff from these guys- excellent company to deal with and they'll rent you a good flaring tool for not much. Bending my own lines wasn't that hard.

http://store.fedhillusa.com/

I used my old lines as patterns. You should get a shop manual from Binder Books- worth every penny.

http://www.binderbooks.com/

I was thinking of going the Cunifer route, I didn't know they would rent me their tool - that's good to know. I don't think I will reuse my old pattern since this is sort of a customized truck, it'll be PROPER (no kinks or anything like that) but I might route things differently.

[Rob Peterson]

+++ on the Cunifer lines. I used them on my KB-1 disc/disc setup and these lines were easier to bend and flare than anything else I have used.