Travelalls as Daily Drivers.. any Thoughts?

[Travelall Curious]

Originally Posted by Darrel

That's the one that's rusty and is missing A/C? I would guess you're going to need to put another $1000-2000 into it to make it reliable and semi enjoyable to drive.
If I was driving that many miles I would look at a 4 cylinder commuter. The savings in gas (300? month) will pay for it.
Btw, I'm also in Aurora. If you ever need any help with anything IH let me know.

Hi Darrel:

That is great that you are in Aurora. Yes, that is the rusty one on the lower rear quarters, and has all a/c in tact except the compressor is missing. NAPA said they don't carry a compressor for it, but they thought they could find a reman somewhere for it, there is always aftermarket universal fit too.

I'm really not a candidate for 4 cylinders as I'm tall and I don't bend well, would easily spend the $300 at the Chiropractors office attempting to shoe-horn me into a rice burner. Plus traveling to Golden during the winters would be a little dicy on hwy 58 etc as they don't plow regularly up there. I figure the cost savings is in not buying a new vehicle and taking car payments.

My mechanic is guestimating around $2,500 for doing all the repairs to get the car up and running properly. This would include pulling the engine and degreasing and replacing all known gaskets and plug wires, flushing radiator etc, replacing all brake shoes and worn tie rod ends and ball joints. This is labor cost and not cost of parts. I've heard that the torsion front end on the 1970 1000 is difficult to find parts for, but then again, not sure what parts are hard to find and what are not... as most folks don't know what the torsion front end is and what it needs.

The mechanic that did the inspection for me showed me where all of the bushings bolts were way off center and that was a sure sign that the bushings were trashed. He also said this 392E (emissions) model would have a tough time passing Denver emissions, but he did not actually test it for emissions. Where the T-all is now does not require emissions, but there was an old emissions sticker on it.

I was curious if anyone had any vapor lock issues in warm/hot weather with T-alls when using ethanol gas? I also wanted to confirm that the rear gas tank on T-alls is inside the rear drivers quarter and NOT under the truck like a Tahoe/Suburban. Anyone have any safety issues with this, or is the rear quarter impact resistant with some extra beams etc?

One guy on the forums here said that there is a company that sells the poly bushings for this T-all, then another said they didn't so not really sure who to believe on certain parts availability.

let me know your thoughts..

[puckm2]

Outbackpartsonline.com has poly bushings. The lower bushing bolts should look off center because they are from factory. They have an out of round washer (cam) so the control arm can be moved in and out to adjust alignment. The upper control arm doesnt adjust like coil spring front ends.

[puckm2]

I just got off phone with outback parts he still has poly bushings and everything else you need.

[puckm2]

If your going to get serious about this to need a service manual and a they knows internationalS.

[Darrel]

Originally Posted by Travelall Curious

Hi Darrel:

That is great that you are in Aurora. Yes, that is the rusty one on the lower rear quarters, and has all a/c in tact except the compressor is missing. NAPA said they don't carry a compressor for it, but they thought they could find a reman somewhere for it, there is always aftermarket universal fit too.

I'm really not a candidate for 4 cylinders as I'm tall and I don't bend well, would easily spend the $300 at the Chiropractors office attempting to shoe-horn me into a rice burner. Plus traveling to Golden during the winters would be a little dicy on hwy 58 etc as they don't plow regularly up there. I figure the cost savings is in not buying a new vehicle and taking car payments.

My mechanic is guestimating around $2,500 for doing all the repairs to get the car up and running properly. This would include pulling the engine and degreasing and replacing all known gaskets and plug wires, flushing radiator etc, replacing all brake shoes and worn tie rod ends and ball joints. This is labor cost and not cost of parts. I've heard that the torsion front end on the 1970 1000 is difficult to find parts for, but then again, not sure what parts are hard to find and what are not... as most folks don't know what the torsion front end is and what it needs.

The mechanic that did the inspection for me showed me where all of the bushings bolts were way off center and that was a sure sign that the bushings were trashed. He also said this 392E (emissions) model would have a tough time passing Denver emissions, but he did not actually test it for emissions. Where the T-all is now does not require emissions, but there was an old emissions sticker on it.

I was curious if anyone had any vapor lock issues in warm/hot weather with T-alls when using ethanol gas? I also wanted to confirm that the rear gas tank on T-alls is inside the rear drivers quarter and NOT under the truck like a Tahoe/Suburban. Anyone have any safety issues with this, or is the rear quarter impact resistant with some extra beams etc?

One guy on the forums here said that there is a company that sells the poly bushings for this T-all, then another said they didn't so not really sure who to believe on certain parts availability.

let me know your thoughts..

Where to begin. On the a/c just realize that you’ll need to replace more than the compressor most likely. If you don’t good chance you’ll have issues and generally the warranty will be voided.
Personally, I would rather have front wheel drive than a RwD for snow. Or 4x4.
I’m not a t-all guy, but I believe the side tanks are outside the frame rails. This is more hazardous, but not something I would be that worried about. I would be more concerned about not having shoulder belts.
For parts any of the bigger venders can tell you what’s available. Try super scout specialists.
Vapor lock issues are easily fixed. I wouldn’t worry about that.

So with repairs you’ll be into it well over $5000? That’s a lot of money for a truck that has rust issues. Not to mention these old trucks will nickel and dime you death if you don’t do your own repairs. Plus down time.

[Aubrey]

Being a 1970 you shouldn't have to worry about emissions for Colorado.

http://www.colorado.gov/cs/Satellite.../1185870965443

[ruderunner]

Just FYI, the front axle code for the torsion bar front end is either FA8 or FA9, one has sway bar the other doesn't. There is a sticky somewhere on this site that lists part number and sources for them.

[46binder]

I drove my 1971 T-All for two years daily summer and winter. It had the old bias ply tires and tubes on split locking rims. I did some rust repairs on the rear fenders, it was in primer and was a beast. Had to warm up about 10 minutes before i drove it to work in the morning when it was 20deg and under, but started everytime, even though when it was freezing it cranked pretty slow that truck drove so smooth, had tons of power, way more than my wifes 2004 Suburban. Only problem I had was with the carb, and it was all traced back to crap in the rear gas tank. Should have cleaned the fuel system when I got it. New owner drove it two hours away on the interstate, no problem. Never should have sold it.

[Matt O'Bryan]

I DD my 73 T'all (345 2bl, t-34,3.54 Trashlock, 235/85/16 BFG AT, 4" lift) 50 miles a day, get between 9-12 mph @60 mpg. I got 13-15 pre lift. OD transmissions are a waste in an IH. Love my 5 speed, hate the OD. If it's geared right at the axles, there is no need for OD (expcetion made for the 1 tons with the "high speed" 4.30 gears.) For me it's economical, because even if I do get a compact commuter, I'm still going to be spending x amount of dollars on the T'all. Most of the costs associated with the T'all are locked in anyhow, it's my hobby and therepy, so I just feed it oil,gas and sparkplugs, as opposed to more insurance, a car payment, and all the costs of having a third vehicle. Besides, I'd still drive the T'all a bunch, it's actually FUN to drive


Matt

[Travelall Curious]

Hi Folks.. been off of here for a few months.

I have turned my attention to a pristine 1968 2wd manual Travelall with the 345 engine.

I noticed when it was up on the lift that there are no torsion bars or coil springs for the front suspension. I have to admit, I was a bit baffelled to see that only shock obsorbers were on the front end ..see attached pic.

The car has been owned by the 2nd owner for the past 21 years and is in amazing condition.

Not that the car needs an engine or tranny swap.. but I do have a 1999 5.7 Chevy Tahoe with a new Jasper tranny that I was thinking could be used to economize the long term usage of the Travelall. Has anyone attempted this in a 68 Travelall? Im curious if the Vortec 350 would fit in the engine bay of the 68.

Another thought would be just use the front disc brakes of the Chevy Tahoe to upgrade the hard to find front drums of the Travelall. Anyone have thoughts on how complex of a job this might be? I have attached a photo of the mystery front suspension of the Travelall... no coils, and no torsion bars.