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#1
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__________________
'78 Scout II, 345, 4-speed, Siam Yellow '79 Midas SSII, 345, Auto, Dark Brown Metallic '79 Midas SSII, 345, Auto, Lexington Blue '79 Scout II, 345, Auto, Persimmon '80 Scout II, 304, 4-speed, Black Canyon Black with Green/Blue Spear '80 Scout II CVI Classic, 345, Auto, Green Metallic |
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#2
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I've used JB weld "JB qwik" on quite a few of those "Baby oil pans" in the bottom of the phenolic bodies and the last one I did back in 2001 is still holding perfect. Those are already glued with an adhesive when they were built at the Carter Factory, but after 20-30 years, it gives way to being constantly submerged in fuel. The JB weld is impervious to that and will hold up better. It's a two part epoxy that you squeeze equal amounts together and mix. I used a small flatblade screwdriver to mix & apply mine due to the fact that you don't need much to do those wells. I used a piece of cardboard to mix it on that you can throw away once done, then I wiped screwdriver off with a paper towel before it sets.
__________________
For The Heartburn of America, I spell Relief, S C O U T
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#3
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Quote:
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#4
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Thank you for the info.
I also found the Miller-Stephenson epoxy. It's number MS-907.
__________________
'78 Scout II, 345, 4-speed, Siam Yellow '79 Midas SSII, 345, Auto, Dark Brown Metallic '79 Midas SSII, 345, Auto, Lexington Blue '79 Scout II, 345, Auto, Persimmon '80 Scout II, 304, 4-speed, Black Canyon Black with Green/Blue Spear '80 Scout II CVI Classic, 345, Auto, Green Metallic |
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#5
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According to Michael Mayben's work up on TQ's; JB Weld will not hold up due to the ethanol content in fuel. His recommendation is the MS epoxy you listed. Last I heard this is still the epoxy of choice for this application
__________________
1980 SII, 345, 727, D20, 1977 Terra 304, T-19wr, D20 |
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#6
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Tip on mixing any epoxy: When you have mixed enough, mix that same time again. It can't be over mixed but it can be undermixed.
I have repaired a couple of gas tanks with JB Weld and it has held a long time. However, every time I disagree with Michael, I find that he is right....
__________________
Doc Stewart "Tough Old Geezer" Charter member: IH Old Hippie Club |
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#7
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Quote:
__________________
1980 SII, 345, 727, D20, 1977 Terra 304, T-19wr, D20 |
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#8
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Hey fellas!
I just got my hands on some awesome stuff!!! Started a thread. Check the "Tool Box." Why more advanced than JB Weld!!!
__________________
1962 Scout 80 4X4. >Stock Modified< ![]() 80/800 Hula Girl Club |
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#9
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Quote:
Here's a tip, use a lubricant additive in fuel that will counter-act the effects of alcohol gasahol, such as Lucas stabilizer or Marvel Mystery Oil. Not only will it counter-act the corrosive properties of alcohol laced fuel or fuel with ethanol, it provides upper cylinder protection, as well as protection against corrosion of all fuel system components, pumps, carburetors, injectors, regulators, valves, etc. The lubricant even atomizes fuel more precisely for better MPG's, smoother running, less stinky exhaust, lower emissions, and more power. Nuf said......
__________________
For The Heartburn of America, I spell Relief, S C O U T
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#10
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Post # 17: http://www.ihonlynorth.com/forums/ca...e-stuff-2.html
As far as I know, Michael's determination for failure was never reversed or amended. I tend to trust what the Professor says; however......if you have confidence in JB Weld to hold up for this application, then by all means to each his own. One thing that I know to be consistently true is that everybody's experiences are not the same whether the discussion is of JB Weld or Oil or Paint or fill in the blank, opinions differ vastly on virtually every subject. I am aware that according to JB's site their Weld and Stick products are completely impervious to gasoline when properly cured. At the same time, the main well of a TQ is thermoplastic resin, not metal. I have read on other sites that JB Weld is not recommended to repair thermoplastic fuel tanks because it will not adhere to the base material. However, this too is hearsay as is most online information. If there is an adhesion problem with thermoplastics perhaps it can be overcome with an etching agent of some kind or some other surface prep. I have not tested this myself nor do I intend to. It all comes down to whose input is the most trusted; which is the choice of each individual. I trust what Mayben says because he speaks from decades of real world experience, he's analytical and thorough in his processes and.... I've never known him to be wrong.....about anything.......ever.
__________________
1980 SII, 345, 727, D20, 1977 Terra 304, T-19wr, D20 |
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