New here, SD33T questions...

[bobgengeskahn]

Hello all. I'm new to this forum and was just looking for info on alternators, but ended up reading a lot of different threads here that have raised a lot more questions for me, so I created an account.

First some background on me and the Scout. The truck is a 1980 Scout II Terra with a factory SD33T and for the most part is all original. The original owner (my great uncle) drove it for a bit and then garaged it in central California for ~20 years before giving it to my dad. I spent a summer getting it running a few years ago and recently have had to borrow it as a daily driver since my regular car bit the bullet a few weeks ago. I am decent with a wrench but lacking on technical knowledge, especially when it comes to diesels; so you can imagine how slow this has been.

I installed an electric fuel pump, in-line filter and a 33 gal. tank to replace the leaking factory tanks and bogged up filters, new belts all around, new alternator, new power steering, new battery, SSBC vacuum pump to boost break booster, added radiator core; and a whole lot of cosmetic stuff.

This is the first diesel I've driven regularly, and after looking at the specs when I was working on it regularly, I honestly wasn't expecting much at 101hp...

The ugly stuff:
The alternator I have (Hitachi, don’t know what model number) does not start charging unless the engine is way over revved. From reading around here, I think it might be because the new alternators have internal regulators and there might still be the factory in line regulator on the firewall??? The alternator looks like the factory one and fits the factory mount; it just has one pulley on it though instead of the double that I've seen on some of the other ones on here. When the alternator does kick in the amp meter tanks all the way to the left (more or less depending what is on, lights and heater draw a lot in the mornings on the way to work). Typically after about 20 min it will come back close to center. (For the record, I avoid revving to kick in the alternator, but freeway travel in 4th jumps the RPMs which brings me to the next thing...)

I was reading in some older threads that the SD33Ts should be able to get up around 70 for freeway travel with the turbo... mine cries bloody murder if I get near 55/60mph... for this reason I avoid freeways at all cost and end up almost tripling my commute times. I always just assumed it was because the whole thing is geared so low, so I never though anything of it.

In general the whole thing drives really smooth around the city until the vacuum pump kicks in, then it gets loud and feels like its going to shake apart (should have done a hydro boost… down the road maybe). I love driving it and getting into conversations about it, but I am realizing that there are a lot more things I can do just to make it an efficient DD…

[mothramothra]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqA64...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktdywT5EsiQ
im pretty new here too and dont know if this will help, but if you're high revs are gearing related, heres two video's to help determine gear ratio if youy cant decipher you're dana 44 tags, some good info on dana 44's can be found here
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html
since you know this rigs history that's probably not the issue, but still its handy info, good luck, btw i'm just starting a hydra boost myself since the rig i just got has no vacuum pump at all. - chris

[bobgengeskahn]

Thanks for the reply! I'm at work right now or I'd crawl under there and check it out. It only has ~84k on it, so I doubt the tags have fallen off the pumpkins.

From the wiki article on Scout IIs and Dana 44s:

Available gear ratios were 2.72, 3.07, 3.31, 3.54, 3.73, 4.09, 4.27
and 4.54. Trak-Lok limited slip differentials were optional.

I do have locking hubs, forgot to mention that. So I would assume for now that I have a 4.54?

[blue smoke]

I highly doubt that you have 4.54 you probably have 3.54 or 3.73. Just because it has 85k on on it doesn't mean the tags are still there. The type of hubs in the front have nothing to do with your gear ratio.

One reason the engine may should like it is screaming is it has a fixed fan so the fan spins as fast as the engine does

[bmacguyver]

a few things you should get done, tach, pyro, and boost gauge, as well as get the line set ticket (available from most light line vendors). there are a few options on the tach just do a search in this forum and it should give a few threads. on the pyro, pre turbo is most accurate,on the boost gauge anywhere handy on the intake manifold, if it still has the factory muffler it is generally highly recommended to lose it altogether or at least go to a high flow muffler. 3.54 gears are probably the most common on diesel scouts from the factory and do good with 31" tires.

hth

mac

[joerenwick]

My exhaust was bad so I took the liberty of changing it all out. I got an elbow delete from Mike and ran 2 1/2 pipe straight out. With a turbo it is not loud.

After this pipe change I was FLYING!!! on the interstate!!! I couldn't believe the difference. If no turbo going to high flow system will make a huge difference. Don't forget to get high air flow filter like K&N and drill some holes in intake too.

good luck.

[bluescout]

Your line ticket may be on the inside of the glove box, but pretty sure it's 3.73 or 3.54. 70MPH can be a little tough on stock size tires. I'll second the addition of a pyrometer. Tach is also nice to have. With those two you can drive the engine safely and effectively. I run my speedometer to around 55 on the highway but because I have 33s, it's around 65 or so. I keep the RPM under 2800 cruising.