fuel pump

[scout4free]

I just got a 77 Scout with 167k on it, we had tried to start it, but it doesnt stay running. It has been sitting for probably 3-5 yrs. What route should i take if anybody has any suggestions on should i get a new fuel pump, filter, clean out lines and tank ? and how to go about it if there is a certian way of doing these processes. Also with motor sitting that long i suppose a tune up would not be out of line, i have heard it would be a good idea to take plugs out seeing that it would need new plugs and dropping some oil in the cylinders to keep from a dry start. Thanks in advance for any help.

[fredsterra]

Good clean oil first. Remove the dist. and spin the oil pump with a large screw driver on a drill is how some guys do it.

A little oil in each cyl. wouldn't hurt.

You can gravity feed the gas line to see if its the fuel pump or trash clogging the line.

Also before you start bump the engine a few times an make sure it's not locked up.

[scout4free]

What do you mean by gravity feed fuel pump ?

[scoutboy74]

Well it sounds like you've already attempted one or more dry starts, so at this point getting overly concerned with pre-lubing is like checking on your burgers after they're already burnt. May as well move forward and not lose too much sleep over that aspect until there's reason to later on.
You absolutely should put considerable effort into purging as much ancient fuel from the entire system as possible. Drop the tank and get it cleaned out. Force low-pressure compressed air through the disconnected lines and/or replace as needed. New fuel filters are never a bad idea. The carb is pretty much guaranteed to be nasty inside from deteriorating fuel and moisture exposure. It will need to be completely gone through.

[fredsterra]

Originally Posted by scout4free

What do you mean by gravity feed fuel pump ?

Put a gas container of somekind with a hose going to the gas inlet of the carb. Make sure it is above the carb and the hose is at the bottom so it will gravity feed to the carb.

I don't recomend this! But I have seen guys run a hose from a dishwash detergent bottle and cut a slit in the bottom so it will vent. Hold it upside down and feed the carb.

But that is the Redneck way! And a Rednecks last words are "Hey Yall Watch This"

I have also seen a gas can with a hose selaed off and low air pressue put into the vent so it will push the gas out.

You can also remove the gas line and have someone turn the engine and see if if has suction. Or remove the gas line there should be a rubber section at the filter and turn the engine over and see if it pumps gas into a container.

[scout4free]

Thanks for all your help, will do, not the "redneck way" Ha ha - "If your gonna be stupid, you gotta be tuff" ( a friend once said)

[jeff campbell]

my brother alway's say's ( you can't fix DUMB! ) LOL,jeff

[Thomas]

---... yup! And iffin ya leave da deturjun bottle dismuchdaway full of deturjunt, it'll clean the liftits & valbs. Use palm olive & it'll soften the cam while you do the liftits too!

---In as few as three days, gas can lose its qualities & after as little as 90, can start to shellac. 3 years after gas was run through the carb, if a modular Holley, I can guarantee the power valve is rotten if not the accelerator pump diaphragm as well.

---No matter what, if fuel was run through & it sat for a year without fuel stabilizer & being run, first thing on my agenda would be to locate the correct* rebuild kit and/or reusable gaskets. If a pre-93 Holley modular, not having been previously installed, a power valve blow-out protector. Another fuel-related possibility would be the line from the tank to pump is bad or crushed between the tank & frame, shelf or floor support above the tank. Then you have the possibility of a dirty filter, including the one between the carb inlet adapter & carb (if applicable). That one is behind the threaded adapter that's mounted to the carb's inlet, to which the supply line connects.

---It runs. It will run. Gas in oil destroys bearings. Stop now & go over the fuel system, not worrying about getting it to stay running. If carb was properly rebuilt before storage, and no fuel ran through it at all till now, all should be well except use of alcohol/ethanol-approved parts & whether the Base Plate Gasket under the carb is 1/4" thick/correct. As the valve cover will say, time V8s on #8 cylinder.

---Never* rotate the crank counter-clockwise.

---If dizzy has been pulled, pull dizzy & #8 spark plug. Wad up 3 pieces of 2-ply, Angel Soft TP into a cork shape & wrap it tightly in the corner of a plastic bag. Tear corner off and plug the spark plug hole. Bump the starter till the plastic pops out, now watch the timing mark while bumping the starter & when the timing mark comes around rotate the crank by hand in the clockwise direction until the mark comes around to 0. If you miss, you have to go around two more times. Remember, never* rotate backwards, no matter what you hear here nor there.

---Now put #8 plug back in & drop the dizzy back in so the vacuum advance is slightly closer than center to the intake, between intake & water pump housing & rotor is pointing forward. Set cap on dizzy, noting which post the rotor is pointing toward. That post is #8. Next in clockwise direction is 4, then 3, followed by 6, 5 ,7 ,2 & 1. #7 will be the longest wire, nearly a foot longer than the second longest. That wire runs behind the carb & up the opposite side of the engine, keeping well away from #5 and only coming near #5 if crossing at a 90° angle. Never side by side. All other plug wires are arranged by length of travel. If we had a perfect see, there would be 3 wires with straight boots & 5 wires with 90s & the 90s would be for wires that travel over the water neck.

---Now, if your dizzy is a Holley electronic w/external module (AKA "Gold Box") then this makes no matter. The Prestolite electronic dizzy requires the original dust cover, for correct cap fitment. Post type doesn't help ID, as the caps are the same diameter & are interchangeable. Rotor for the Holley has a counterweight on the underside & Prestolite has wings to the sides. Holley elect. dizzy has two black wires w/weatherproof plug that go to a module (roughly 5.5"x4") mounted by the hood latch & Prestolite elect. has 2 wires, red & brown that go to the coil, & normally a white wire that goes ro the DTM or just hangs quietly, unattached. The top of the Holley dizzy is straight, while the Prestolite has roghly a 1/16" groove where the dust cover rests. Either cap will have a sloppy fit on the Prestolite, without the dust cover, so say; A snugly fitting 3/64" or 1/16" diameter o-ring could be installed, if dust cover is not present. The cap should fit snugly over that & then all gaps between cap inserts & rotor will be close & go unchanged once cap is locked in place.

---Now the fun part. First off, no available IH application, OEM of aftermarket ignition system known to me should ever* be trusted with key on & engine not running. If yours is a Holley elect. & the engine stops running when you release the key, you can bet the run circuit in the module is fried. Good news (maybe still) is that RockAuto.com has them on sale for roughly $30.

---Another reason for the module to fry, other than inadequate cooling/circulation of air in the engine compartment, is inadequate ground. Run at least a 16g wire from battery to the riveted-to-module's-housing ground wire. You'd be lucky if the old, rusty sheet metal could conduct 5% of what a copper ground could.