Original gauges reading low - fix

[Eric VanBuren]

Dennis makes a good point I forgot to state and that is about the pins on the circuit board being problematic. That is why I never unplug them when doing the repair and diagnosis. You can damage an otherwise functioning pin. Either yank it right out of the board or loosen so it doesn't work right.

[Thomas]

Originally Posted by jawsplace

No, my temp gauge hovers around 1/3 of the way towards "H" even when the engine is at operating temperature.

---W/new wiring, gauge, temp sending unit, CVR, etc., API SH SAE30w & 60/40 coolant mix w/195° t-stat, that's normal for StoneThrower's 304... during MI, IL & AL's peak Summers. The only time it ever ran hotter, was when I quickly found I had forgotten to give that extra little tweak to the petcock valve after a thorough coolant system cleaning, or when I installed an EGR block-off plate. A quick stop on the side of the road for one issue & reinstalling the inactive EGR solved the other.

---Having found those Regulators on ebay myself about a year ago, the only deterrent from making a purchase was two key words... Hong Kong. I find it hard to trust waiting 2-3 weeks for LED minibulbs when it comes to the question of quality.

[Eric VanBuren]

Originally Posted by Thomas

---W/new wiring, gauge, temp sending unit, CVR, etc., API SH SAE30w & 60/40 coolant mix w/195° t-stat, that's normal for StoneThrower's 304... during MI, IL & AL's peak Summers. The only time it ever ran hotter, was when I quickly found I had forgotten to give that extra little tweak to the petcock valve after a thorough coolant system cleaning, or when I installed an EGR block-off plate. A quick stop on the side of the road for one issue & reinstalling the inactive EGR solved the other.

Then you've got a gauge that is out of calibration as I've tested the calibration on mine and verified some against the temp sensor for the FI and they should run straight up with the proper 180 degree T-stat and to the right of 12 o'clock if you are using a 195 degree stat.

[lightningflash]

Originally Posted by Eric VanBuren

better yet replacing the cheap stamped steel nuts with quality brass ones and a good cleaning.

Where can you find brass nuts at? I looked at Lowes and didn't have any luck.

[Eric VanBuren]

I swear I've got them for one of the trucks I've done at Lowes but I've got them at ACE and DO-IT affiliated stores most frequently.

[lightningflash]

Originally Posted by Eric VanBuren

I swear I've got them for one of the trucks I've done at Lowes but I've got them at ACE and DO-IT affiliated stores most frequently.

Ok, thanks.

[lightningflash]

Ok, need some help here.

I took apart the fuel/voltage instrument gauge and wrote down what wires went where. I cleaned everything up nice and went away. When I came home I was putting the wires back on and started questioning the orientation of my diagram....plus I thought I had one more nut to go on but couldn't find it so I'm questioning if there was ever another nut.

On the voltage side, my diagram says (working from the driver door inwards), I have the red wires going on first then a nut and then the blue and black wires with the yellow end going on next then a nut. The next post I have the blue and black wire with the black end going on first then a nut, then the black wire and a nut....is this correct? or doesn't it really matter which side their on? Does my diagram have more nuts on it than it should and does it matter if I don't put a nut between the wires?

The reason I ask is my fuel gauge still doesn't work (I know this has nothing to do with the voltage gauge wires) but my light isn't working either. Also, my bulb isn't working either (but don't totally remember if it worked before I took it apart because I really haven't driven my Scout at night much).