'65 Loadstar Restoration

[SCLoadstar]

I recently purchased this 1965 Loadstar 1600 from my Uncle and plan on restoring it to its original condition. I'm don't want it to be a show truck, merely look and feel like it did when my Grandfather bought it.

The story: This truck was bought by my Grandfather in '67 or '68, my Uncle who I bought it from cant remember and my Dad was too young to remember at the time. He bought it on a Saturday and had my uncle who was 11 or 12 at the time driving it before sundown. In the mid 70's a farm hand inadvertently snagged a brake line leaving a field with a full load of corn. He was unaware until he reached the nearest stop sign and flipped the truck and load of grain in the ditch. He was fine but the cab was totaled and there was a stream of brake fluid from the field to the scene of the accident. A "new" cab came from the junk yard so the VIN numbers between the two do not match. My Grandfather passed when I was 9 so I only have a few memories of him, and this is the only tangible one.

As I said my intention is to restore it to what it looked and felt like when my Grandfather brought it home that long lost Saturday. I have a mechanic coming to look at it and judge whether it is in running condition or not. I want to restore it piece by piece slowly as large amounts of capital are not available at this time.

[SCLoadstar]

Well the mechanic came and said there was no reason it shouldnt crank. So the plan is to attempt to start it up Saturday. Is there any trick to a 304? Do I need to caress it in any special way? Any tricks to starting a motor that hasnt been running in years?

[Mitch Neal]

I have to admit, I had to look up where Green Sea, SC is. I have lived in the upstate of SC and on the lower coast of NC and never heard of it. Learn something new everyday.

As far as starting the engine, the one thing you really should do is prime the oiling system. These engines have a tendency for the cams to stick to the bearings and roll them when they start dry. You need to remove the distribuitor and use a cut-off long screw driver in a drill to turn the oil pump. It may take a while to get pressure, and it is a pain (especially when you are ready to hear it run) but it is worth it. If you search the tech section, there are a lot of other suggestions on starting a motor that has been sitting, but this is the most important.

[SCLoadstar]

After several months of neglect I finally had some work done to the Loadstar. After a new brake master cylinder, brake booster, clutch master cylinder, and slave cylinder she now runs and moves under her own power. Next step is to clean it out, and work on the bed. I'll be removing the old wooden bed, blasting the frame/axle/springs/anything covered in rust, and rebuild the bed with new lumber.

[SCLoadstar]

Well, got the bed off to find the wiring for the tail lights, and differential shifter in shambles. When I back tracked the tail light wires I also found that there is no brake relay on the brake pedal. So now I need the brake relay, and the switch for the diff on the shifter is frozen. Anyone got a part number or willing to part with either one?

[jeff campbell]

at 1 time i did have them parts but not anymore..for fenders an such,school buses are the same.but they have no 2-spds.if you don't find anything here,go to "oldihc.org" you'll find something there.jeff

[bmacguyver]

actually some stick shift school buses DO have 2-speed rears, all of the IH gas school buses we had when i was in school had 4 speed trans with 2 speed rears.

hth

mac

[jeff campbell]

thats kool to know,wasn't aware they put 2-spds,in buses,learn something new everyday! i rode a ford bus,growing up.they did have ih's also.from what i cud remember..i was in to much of a hurry to GET OFF my bus,to go to my dads & gpa's D-ship,hell w/that damn bus & school ! lol,jeff