Violent shaking in reverse

[jdanger]

Which side mount would cause this in reverse? I have this issue bad and replaced to passenger mount and it still shakes. How ever it doesn't do it in low range.....

[tdc]

37" tires w/ 2:92 gears ?

[redhead_823]

Originally Posted by jdanger

Which side mount would cause this in reverse? I have this issue bad and replaced to passenger mount and it still shakes. How ever it doesn't do it in low range.....

Confusing...

In first and reverse there is the most torque going to the axles, and that makes it sound like a torque reaction problem.
In low range you have even more torque, and the fact that it's fine there cancels out my other theory.

Oh and it would be the passenger mount lifting up in reverse.

[jdanger]

I guess I could try the tranny mount, it looks pretty rough....

[kennyk]

Let us know when you find the problem. I agree with Bill, I think it's in the clutch pack. It could be a weak pressure plate even if they were just replaced. Also high spOts on the flywheel.

[jdanger]

I thought that but why would it be so smooth in low range, it's almost perfect. It shakes a little in first but nothing like reverse, it's feels like the whole body is going to rattle off...lol

[tdc]

Originally Posted by jdanger

How ever it doesn't do it in low range.....

Originally Posted by jdanger

why would it be so smooth in low range, it's almost perfect.

Originally Posted by tdc

37" tires w/ 2:92 gears ?

If it's not geared wrong, and the clutch, pp, t/o bearing, u-joints and carb are good. Set the timing to 7 degrees btdc and try it.

[Thomas]

---Hoping it's just engine or trans mount, another broken center pin, you find a cracked spring mount (frame rail) before someone gets hurt, you discover you installed the leaf spring backward and wheel base is 3" different between the two sides or you discover your mechanic installed GL-4/5 gear oil in a transmission that requires GL-1 (same as your transfer case, but a dry or improperly filled transfer case could also be the source) and the transmission can be efficiently rebuilt before bearings go out, shafts become marred and unrepairable, gears get broken and/or it grenades & cracks the case. Also hope if you couldn't do something at the moment, you remember what that something was (I.E., have the elongated hole[s] in the spring perch repaired [caused by loose u-bolts or broken center pin], buy new u-bolts because you reused the old ones , retorque the newly installed u-bolts & such).

---Just like a mechanic's stethoscope, a screwdriver or two cups & a string can transfer sound waves, so can the driveshafts. A grinding, vibration or raking in the rear end can easily be thrown down the driveshaft and amplified by the transmission's hollow case, making the source sound like it is coming from the transmission. Scotch block/chock the front wheels jack up the rear end till both wheels are off the ground spin a tire & listen for raking... a constant fingers on a washboard sound or... card in bicycle tire spokes. Let the wheel stop spinning and repeat on the other side. If you hear something on either/both, most likely that's going to be a bearing, primarily the wheel bearing... the bearing on the end of the axle tube that are pressed onto the shaft

---I'm including something from one of your other posts, but I'll ponder the history of driveline issues and try to surmise something sensible. Other than that, I would suggest taking it in for an inspection of steering, suspension & frame cause you've questioned a lot of important, possibly related things... but if you keep you'll hopefully find it.

Originally Posted by okkool77

... Should I take it back to the mechanic that put the clutch in and tell him to tear apart the transmission until he finds what is making that sound since it was quiet when I dropped it off and now its grinding?...

---Could be early signs of the needle bearings going out. The ones between the Main Shaft and Output Shaft, but after turning the flywheel until the ( I hate not having my manuals ) "mumble" colored dot is brought to the bottom, spin your head to the engine side and try to locate the "L" that is stamped in the flywheel. If it's not on the bottom as well, or near the bottom, rotate the flywheel another 120° (pressure plate can only be installed one of three ways, which = 120° difference) and check again, then another 120°. If the colored dot is anywhere other than "as close to the stamped 'L' as possible", then your drive train is not balanced correctly. Guess what, that can cause damage to the engine's internals!

---If you find it's incorrectly balanced, I'd pay a surprise visit to your "mechanic" while the manager is there, ask him/her the steps he/she took to installing your clutch & how he balanced the engine with that clutch. If he/she gets a stupid gooberlook on his/her face and says "by the book", even if he/she goes and grabs the book to back what he/she says, then you simply tell him/her you "will spin the flywheel until the colored dot on the pressure plate is down... etc., etc.," and show her/him & her/his manager that "... it's nowhere near the stamped "L" in the flywheel". Now, to know if the roll pin in the flywheel is in the right spot, would be to know where it was before the flywheel was resurfaced/replaced. Unless you know your flywheel, or can tell where it was prior to it being removed, then the only thing you can go on is trust that she/he knew her/his job well and scribed the flywheel before removing it so they could reinstall it in the right hole. If it's placed in the wrong hole, throw simple balancing out the window, it's gonna require a machine shop or under a forensic study of the holes to find which one the roll pin was in if it had been moved.

---If due to ignorance, the company has to pay to have your engine rebuilt and the mechanic loses his/her job, so be it. This is how we ensure that good workers hold jobs and the rest move down, hold the ladder or go home.