Installed a new electric fuel pump and now issues...

[danm3275]

I installed an inline electric Carter fuel pump to help the mechanical fuel pump after sitting for a long time, but now it seems it's flooding the carb. It starts up a little faster, but when I give it gas too fast it stutters and wants to stall. I have the epump running through the mechanical pump and on as long as the scout is running. Should I rewire to a switch?
Is the carb needing a rebuild?
Thanks in advance,
Dan

[dkterra]

Originally Posted by danm3275

I installed an inline electric Carter fuel pump to help the mechanical fuel pump after sitting for a long time, but now it seems it's flooding the carb. It starts up a little faster, but when I give it gas too fast it stutters and wants to stall. I have the epump running through the mechanical pump and on as long as the scout is running. Should I rewire to a switch?
Is the carb needing a rebuild?
Thanks in advance,
Dan

I would install a switch so it can do the job you originally intended for it to do, help. Then if you still have issues, work down the list you started.

[Eric VanBuren]

What pump did you use, there are a number of different versions and if you installed one with too high a pressure rating then it can push past the needle and seat. Not all pumps can be drawn through it depends on the type so you may not be able to put it on a switch to use it for priming.

[ruderunner]

An elec pump can push through a mechanical pums check valves. This can lead to flooding. But flooding would be more likely at idle. Your symptoms indicate a bad accelerator pump in the carb, but they seldom go bad overnight.

My guess is the truck has been sitting for a length of time, the carb was bad before installing the electric pump.

Diagnose: start engine and let it idle, idles fine= pump ok. Floods out= too much fuel pressure.
or
remove elctric pump and try it again, still stalls= bad carb.

[dkterra]

As far as pumps go, it's been discussed on here before, and poeple claim the cheep pumps can be pulled through when off, I don't know, never used one. The one that works well is a carter RV pump with a one-way check valve. It's about three times more but has worked for others very well.
Worst you can do is try it when off, and see if it will flow.

I would also tend to agree with ruderunner that there are issues with the accelerator pump in the carb.

[danm3275]

Thats what I was thinking also. If I slowly give it gas, no issues whatsoever. But if I hit it, it stutters.
Idles great if I leave the pedal alone for a few minutes. Otherwise it will stall once in drive or reverse.
After a good warmup of a few minutes, it will drive normal.
I didnt want to install a switch just in case the carter didn't allow flow when off.
This is the part: CARTER P60504
From what I read it's between 5psi to 7psi and that should be within range.
I have a rebuilt Motorcraft 2bbl carb on its way soon so hopefully that can help but Im still stumped a little.
(its a 73 258 auto btw)

[i bleed red]

I installed an electric pump on my 74 about 3 feet or so from the tank mounted to the frame rail and bypassed the mechanical pump. I bought a Mr. Gasket regulator for $20 or so at Advance and set it to 5 pounds to not flood the carb and haven't had any bad issues thus far. I wired it to the keyed side to kick on and off when needed. Jeff.

[Jay Tabor]

danm did you CHECK THE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP PRESSURE after install??
since your stalling happens when the engine is cold,
it was occuring before you installed the electric pump.
the pump has nothing to do with the engine stalling when cold but operating fine when warm ..
so maybe you aught to adjust the choke?

[danm3275]

I havent checked the fuel pump pressure, but spent the last few days installing skyjacker shocks ( noticed now the leaf springs are creaking so my projects keep adding up, haha) and looking into the carb now to see if the issue is there. I thought that it may be flooding, but you're right it did it before it's just more obvious now. I'm thinking it' something with the carb.