Keep burning out condensers
I was able to attempt to start my 345 for the first time in decades.
New cap, rotor, wires, plugs.
After filling the fuel bowl, and checking things over, I hit the key switch. I must say that I was extremely happy to hear the starter crank over.
I hooked up my induction timing light to get ready to time it, and noticed no flash while cranking. I probed the coil + with a test light, and it was full bright. I also measured 12 volts while cranking, and with the key in run position.
I have a known good 12Volt externally resisted coil. No spark. I pulled the cap, and verified the rotor was spinning, and I had 12V at the points, as well as the negative side of the coil while cranking.
So I figure the condenser is bad, as it was an old one. I changed it out with another used one I had, and cranked again. The strobe flashed about 5 times and quit.
Since I have 3 brand new condensers on the shelf, I figure I'll try it one more time with a new one. The engine ran perfectly (after I timed it). Revved perfectly, idled perfectly. 55psi oil pressure, no exhaust leaks or any wierd sounds. Just the purr... Then she died.
So here is what I need to know.
On the + side of the coil are two wires factory molded together. A black one and a white one. The white is to ignition switch, and has that funny insulation around it telling me that it is the resistance wire. The black I have hooked up to the I on my remote Ford style coil. You see, it used to go to the R on the old starter solonoid.
Should I leave that black wire off the I terminal?
Am I correct in running a 12V coil? Is it supposed to be a 6 volt coil?
Seems to me that the coil should get 12 volts while cranking, and 6 during run. Isn't that the reason for the resistance wire?
Since I didn't check the resistance of that wire, perhaps I should install a new ballast resistor and do away with the wire...
Anyways, I could really use some help here and I'm sure I left out some stuff, so please aske me what you need to know, and I'll be standing by.
PS. my internet was down all day. Someone cut a fiber optic cable, and it affected 3 counties. So I haven been able to do any searching yet. I'm hoping to get a quick fix before the day is over.
Edit: Just had a thought. If I was overcharging, that would do it. I went out and checked and I have 12 volts on the sense wire at the alternator, so I know that doesn't prove it's not overcharging, but it helps. Man, I hate to be so close, and can't finish.
Last edited by BioTex; 12-26-2011 at 06:29 PM.
|345 , battery , bright , cable , cap , coil , crank , died , engine , exhaust , fuel , fun , ignition , key , light , mounts , screws , spark , start , starter , strap , switch , test , timing , voltage|
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