Is it time for a steering box rebuild?

[gearheart]

I have a 72 Scout II that I just got back on the road after an engine/trans/t-case/suspension/axle/power disc/power steering swap and I am pretty happy with how everything is working except the steering.

I have about 90 deg of freeplay at the steering wheel and am constantly chasing it to keep straight on the road.

I have the following;
1. 8 degrees of caster (leaned back at the top)
2. new, tight one ton rod ends in the steering links
3. borg style steering column joints
4. new bushings in the suspension
5. new steering damper
6. no leaks in either the power steering system or at the sector shaft.

I know that old trucks handle like old trucks but would a steering box rebuild help tighten this up? I have the 13/16" input IIRC, is there an IH vendor that is recommended for a rebuild kit or should I head to NAPA? I read several threads about this and the parts mix-up in some of the kits and now I are confused!

Thanks for your insight

Mike

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[robgimmel]

Isn't there an adjustment for slack on the box?

[jauringer]

Yes, you can adjust the output shaft end play but the effectiveness of this adjustment is predicated on the thrust bearing preload.

If preload is too loose the output shaft will not take the slack out.

Considering you have 90deg of play, I doubt you'll get you desired results with just the output shaft adjustment.

The rebuild is easy (with exception of the installing the piston without damaging the teflon ring) if you choose, but at the very minimum I would remove the box, check the thrust bearing preload and then adjust the output shaft end play.

Jason

[Dennis Bernth]

Have somebody sit in the Scout and turn the wheel while you watch what the steering shaft and pitman arm are doing. If you see the steering input shaft turning but you're getting little to no action from the pitman, then it's probably time for a steering box. It they're both moving equally, watch the frame for flex. One question I have is, did you use the bushings that go inside the steering box mounting holes in the frame to keep from collapsing the frame when you tighten the box up? With the size tires you have on the truck, it takes a little effort to move them, and if the frame is flexing too much or you didn't replace the bushings, you can induce a lot of movement that seems to be in the steering box but actually isn't.

I'd recommend that if you do need a steering box that you send or take yours to a reputable rebuilder. Parts store rebuilts all pretty much come from the same place, and quality control is lacking on a lot of them, they're put together 'good enough' to make it out the door and that's about it. You may get a good one, but you might not, and personally, changing steering boxes a few times until you're happy with the new box isn't a fun time for me.

[gearheart]

Thanks for all the help. It steers like new!

All it took was a little spin of the adjuster on the cap of the box. One full turn to be exact. Listed in the factory service manual as over-center adjustment.

And I do have the bushings through the frame. I usually weld in spuds through the frame to mount a box in a custom location but in this case I used the stock spacers with the stock power steering box with new grade 8 bolts.

Thanks again.

Mike

[jauringer]

Good to hear it was that easy. Sounds like your ready to roll

Jason

[NC Scout]

GearHeart, I have a 1971 Scout II and have some play in the steering also. Do you have a photo of the "adjuster" that took care of your issue. Did you tighten to the right, if so how did you know how far to go?

Thanks in advance for your help.

[gearheart]

Originally Posted by NC Scout

GearHeart, I have a 1971 Scout II and have some play in the steering also. Do you have a photo of the "adjuster" that took care of your issue. Did you tighten to the right, if so how did you know how far to go?

Thanks in advance for your help.

The adjuster is in the center of the cap on TOP of the gearbox. It has a jamb nut around an allen stud.

This is what we did, all with the engine OFF;

1. loosen jamb nut

2. have helper turn steering wheel back and forth a few inches. (just enough to gently make the steering column change direction at the input to the gearbox

3. feel the sector shaft with one hand and (very gradually) tighten allen stud until sector shaft/pitman arm movement matches the input shaft movement.

4. when they move the same amount, tighten jamb nut

5. test drive

One full turn, like in my case, is alot! If there is more slop than that, the box most likely needs a rebuild. I was the steering wheel turner on this project while my friend who is a pro mechanic did the wrench spinning. He cautioned me against over-tightening the stud saying that it would put too much load on the bearings. The effort of steering should not change unless adjusted too tight.

If I had slop in the wheel on a vehicle in the future, I would not hesitate to do this again, it was quite a simple tune-up and I wish I had known about it on vehicles in the past where I tolerated wandering steering due to lack of knowledge.


Mike

[NC Scout]

Thank you GearHeart, I'm definitely trying this as soon as possible.