Diesel scout rear main seal

[salyera]

i finally got a diesel scout. It leaks oil pretty bad between the pan and adapter, and also out of the tranny inspection cover. So where do i find a rear main seal, and a new pan seal? also is there anything else i should do while i have the motor out? i am putting a new throwout bearing in also because mine sounds like warewolves trapped in a coffee can. Other that she runs like a cheetah in heat.

-aj

[Jim]

Hey AJ,

You can get the main seal and pan gasket thru Jesco. I would pull the head and inspect the liners and pistons and head. If you need to do internal work, it will be alot easier with the engine out. I have the tool for removing liners in case you need to borrow it. Definitely put a new clutch in too and be sure to have the flywheel surfaced even if it looks flat. The rear seal is two piece and can be replaced with engine installed, but will be easier with engine out. I changed mine and it slowed the leak, but didnt stop it. I think it is normal to leak a little oil there on just about any Scout setup.

[dick ardrey]

IF the draft tube was to become restricted some how the blow by will not ALL get out the tube and will find a place such as the rear main seal!!!

I have been all over this as I have removed my draft tube and now vent out the valve cover!

If there is not enough vent YOU WILL get rear main seal leakage big time.

For me the fix was ( after a new seal was installed) and it leaked also; double the vent so as to reduice the pressure build up by half. You dont want ANY pressure at all!!!

lazer

[JMattJ]

I'm going to replace my clutch soon and I have a very small leak from the rear main seal, so I figure I'll replace it too. Can I get to it from the flywheel or do I need to drop the oil pan? If I need to drop the oil pan can I just do the clutch now an save the seal for another day?

[vegestar]

If it's not leaking that bad I wouldn't bother it. The seal carrier is part of the rear main bearing cap and is a press fit into the block. Requiring not only removing the pan but also making or finding a suitable puller to extract the cap. It is also very difficult to replace the upper seal half without damaging it, sometimes you don't even know it's damaged until you put the darn thing back together and it leaks worse than before!

I tend to judge oil leaks as follows: If there is a steady drip while the engine is running that needs to be addressed. If it just leaves a few drops or so after you shut it down then I leave it.

[JMattJ]

Thanks for the advice, I'll leave good enough alone at this point. It reminds me of my helicopter, if it's not dripping it means it's out of oil.

[vegestar]

Your Helicopter? Hold the phone, what's that all about? lol Now there's one thing I know nothing about, flying machines. I always wanted to join the Air Force as a kid but I was always told my glasses would deter them from letting me fly. I haven't worn glasses since the year my Scout last saw pavement (which was 8th grade for me) but I never followed up on that dream... So, do you want to fly up here real quick for this power steering pump bracket or what?

[2nd Scout]

See my sig for info on the RMS R/R. You don't have to pull the engine. However, make darn sure you pull the top half of the seal down and put gray silicone or equiv on the the ends to keep them from leaking. I replaced mine three times before I got it right. It does not leak now, at least not enough to drip on the ground.

On the clutch, the noise you are hearing , if it is when the clutch is pushed in and not let out, is probably the pressure plate and not the bearing. The dana pressure plates don't take kindly to the vibration of the diesels, and they rattle a lot. The retainer clips will eventually let go like mine did. Replace the PP with a rockford style when you do your clutch and the noise will go away.

[JMattJ]

Pages EM-17 - EM-19 on this link show the RMS installation in better detail than our factory SMs.
http://tortugatt.com/brico/Patrol%20...3%20taller.pdf