Flared exhaust flange question

[VooDoo]

I am fabricating a 2 ½” SS exhaust system for my Travelall 4x4 project. The 392V8 engine has stock cast 2-bolt exhaust manifolds with bolt holes 3 3/8” apart and 2 1/8” I.D. exit hole. The original exhaust pipe was 2 ¼” O.D. with a typical flared end that takes a Felpro 60351 or Victor F7395 donut exhaust gasket. Of course everyone here knows that…

After reviewing PYPES 2 ½” SS downpipes, it appears two of their “lower pictured” #DGU10S 78-88 SB CHEVY – 2 BOLT G-BODY downpipes with the longer run before the tighter than 90 degree bend will work.



http://www.pysales.com/IW_Products.m...TI_ITEM_SUBMIT

Does anyone that has Chevy and IH experience know if the exhaust manifold flared flange is the same on IH and the stated Chevy years on PYPES #DGU10S?

[VooDoo]

How about you Hemi guys? These 2.5” SS PYPES downpipes for 70-74 E-body Dodge/Pylmouth 426 Hemi look to be the best shape for adaption to International with their dual ~45 degree bends. Cut them in the straight section between the bends and flip the flared flange up, then trim for an 85 degree combined bend to match the frame rail horizontal.



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PYE-DME20/

Anyone know what year model and make had this engine so I can look up and check the exhaust donut gasket for fit?

[Dennis Bernth]

There might not have been an exhaust donut gasket on some of those. I know on the GM, the 'donut' so to speak is built in to the exhaust manifold, the flare just fits around it.

[spreader]

Go back to your 'Summit' link and open the 'application' link. 1970-71 Dodge/Plymouth Challenger/Baracuda

[VooDoo]

Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

Pypes guy said they had a flared end, but I'm beginning to wonder... If it is a "flat" lipped mount then it may still work as the IH manifolds have a large enough circular flat surface that should be able to take an exhaust crush-ring gasket. The dual ~45 degree bends make these a likely one-cut and weld solution if the flange will work.

I ordered up a pair of these based on the discussion with the Pypes guy. If I have to return them at least the shippng to me was free.

[VooDoo]

Looks like it's going to take one of these.



Might work?

[bigmookied]

Lee,

I just bought 2 of these and some U bends from the local exhaust supply guy. Then went to the steel yard and found a small piece of tube that fit into the exhaust tube. Weld a short piece in, leaving about 3/4 of an inch to go into the manifold and you are set. Just add a donut and you are good to go.

The piece inside keep the lateral movement down and keeps the donut intact. The exhaust guy gave me this tip, says all his circle track cars run like this.

It's been a year and and all is still good. Before I could only go 3 - 6 months depending how many times I drove it.

[bigmookied]

If you want to stay with the transition cone idea, check these out. I know you are doing all this yourself, so this might keep a few pennies in your pocket.


http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog...-cone-703.html

[VooDoo]

Originally Posted by bigmookied

Lee,

I just bought 2 of these and some U bends from the local exhaust supply guy. Then went to the steel yard and found a small piece of tube that fit into the exhaust tube. Weld a short piece in, leaving about 3/4 of an inch to go into the manifold and you are set. Just add a donut and you are good to go.

The piece inside keep the lateral movement down and keeps the donut intact. The exhaust guy gave me this tip, says all his circle track cars run like this.

It's been a year and and all is still good. Before I could only go 3 - 6 months depending how many times I drove it.

Clearly your local muffler shop guys are better than the two I checked with so far. Not sure if that merge cone/pipe is the proper flange, but looks close. I couldn't find a simple SS flared flange piece anywhere. The Pypes downpipes are priced right with mandrel bends if the #DME20 will work.

I like your(his) idea on the insert to keep down lateral movement. Wish my manifolds weren't already installed so I could port and work with them easily.

You can't believe what some of the prices are on SS mandrel bent exhaust pipe. It's shocking! If those downpipes work I think I can get by with just 2 additional 45 degree bent pieces for the transition from passenger to drivers side between the trans and TC and a little 2.5" straight stock. If I can keep the whole complete mandrel bent stainless steel exhaust system in the same $350-$400 price range as an installed aluminized system, then I'm good with that. Plus, I enjoy the process of doing something a bit unique.

Check out the prices on Mandrel-Bend's site for their bent pipe kits. About $150 wihtout any flanges or straight stock and it might not be enough...

[VooDoo]

The SS Hemi Pypes arrived. The end flange appears to fit the IH exhaust donut and manifold bolt holes just fine. Don't know why that exhaust gasket I looked up is shaped like it is



I'll have to lay everything out and start planning my system in detail with all the parts I've order...

MOVING THIS BACK TO HERE FOR THE EXHAUST SYSTEM BIULD.